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Everything posted by jawno

  1. It wouldn't be very sobering if you added beer. Without looking I'd have to say not nearly enough inches left, like twelve. Is there anyway I can add a couple dozen more? Think I'll need them to accomplish all I want to do. Actually I think this makes me want to drink a beer.
  2. I prefer the second one as well. the first looks fine but it seems kind of top heavy and that's not something I want to see when I'm dealing with fire. The second looks like it would be hard to knock over. Simple criteria but that's my preference. I do kind of like the finish on the first better.
  3. I have no idea but my guess is it can't be done.Definitely try a test piece first so you don't ruin your item. Most plating materials are soft like copper. Titanium is hard and highly heat resistant. Plating is a chemical process though so I don't know.
  4. Just make sure its a 220 volt welder and not a 110. Those 110's are cheap for a reason. They make better boat anchors than welders.
  5. watermelon roaster. Just kidding.
  6. jawno

    Photo frame

    I'd say that looks super. You might want to check your square though. looks like it could be off a bit. Just kidding. Looks good.
  7. If I may be so bold as to add something to this great list. Drywall is nice for the house and maybe the office as well, but for a shop I would suggest something like chipboard (not near the forge of course). This allows for adding shelves "anywhere" later on or hangers for hoses or tools. Paint it white and it will reflect the light well and make the whole workspace brighter. Unfortunately I learned of this idea right after drywalling my shop so its a do as I say not as I do type thing. Glenn presented some great idea's though and I'm going to try to implement some as I finish out the wiring and so forth.
  8. I believe the proper name for the dimples is pips but don't quote me on that. Looks good.
  9. :) Looks excellent. Hard to believe its not plasma cut. Well, I believe it but excellent work anyway.
  10. I agree, 460 rpm is way too fast for a 1/2" bit in hard steel. My drill press goes down to 60 rpm which is what I do most of my drilling at. Smaller bits like a little higher speed though so 460 is about ideal for around a 3/16" bit. Also I always pilot drill large holes. 1/4" then 1/2" then 1" then 2". It may sound like more work but it goes quicker when the center of the drill isn't doing all the work. Its the outside corners of the bit that does all the work anyway. That's why I don't like too small of a step up in size. You end up just breaking off the corner of the drill and drilling back on the flutes which just burns things up. If 460 is as low as your press will go (hmm, must be a woodworker drill press) then you might consider using a large hand drill. The larger ones usually turn slow enough to work and your bit will tend to follow the pilot hole. You'll have to be careful to keep everything perpendicular to the hole but I've had good success with hand drilling large holes in the field. What you might do to keep the drill from wandering is to clamp a plate with a 1/2" hole already in it to the top of the piece you want to drill so that it follows the hole and keeps things in line. And you'll still want to pilot drill a 1/4" hole.
  11. seems to me it would be easiest to strike the head and not the other way around.
  12. I don't have a Clausing but would think any good working drill press would be worth around that much money. Maybe check a Grizzly Catalog or something for something similar and see what they are selling for. I paid about that much for my drill press over twenty years ago. Tools are always a good investment. One of the best purchases I've ever made. Maybe try to check it for sloppiness in the bearings. Make sure its not worn out.
  13. Nice job. I love this kind of stuff.
  14. Congratulations on getting things going. I like the teeth.
  15. You must have a gigantic parts pile to constantly come up with such interesting pieces.
  16. Best place on Earth unless you count all those other places. I'm about 250 miles away from Seattle. Inland Empire area.
  17. Hmmm, link doesn't work for me. I keep getting a 404 - server not found error.
  18. Very nice. Simple but elegant. It has a nice flow to it. Good luck in the competition.
  19. We have a CMM here at work. Not quite the same as a Faro Arm but close. Instead of trying to form a class maybe try to join a class. Faro must conduct classes and the cost per student might be much less than 7300 bucks.
  20. I got the surgery in both hands at once. Doc and nurses said I'd be good as new in a week. Two weeks later I could still barely buckle my belt. Was a month before I could function okay at work and a year before I felt fully recovered. But that was probably ten years ago and I haven't had any problems since. My arms get tired quickly when I swing a hammer but that may have no relevance to these issues. kind of glad I bit the bullet and got it done at this point.
  21. Welcome. Lots of members here from Washington State. I'm from Walla Walla myself.
  22. I saw a bunch of tank ends in a scrap yard in SLC, Utah when i was there last year on vacation. I went in and asked about buying them but didn't have the room to haul them. Hoping to get some next time I visit. They were asking like fifty or seventy five bucks depending on condition and maybe size.
  23. this is one of those questions that's hard to answer without being there. If its spinning twice as fast as it would if it were cranked by hand then that's probaqbly too fast and will result in shortened life. It also depends on how you use it. Little drill bits like high speed, big one's don't. For the amount you have invested in this it may not matter to you if you wear it out and toss it. If it does matter then you might want to take the time and energy to slow it down. Returning it to a hand crank condition it might last a lifetime. Just keep in mind those bearings were probably never designed to spin fast. Again, hard to say without actually seeing it in operation.
  24. If your worried about a concrete floor being damaged and think a tarp won't be then you should probably consider looking for a new line of work. Or at least increase your fire insurance (and read the fine print). If this is a rental space or something and you don't want to be responsible for damages to the premises then Frosty's idea of a layer of dirt is probably your best course of action.