Ohio Rusty

3 miles an hour over the speed limit is $185.00 !!!! Drivers beware !! I wasn't the only one .... there were two other blacksmiths they pulled over and ticketed also. They figure if you are going to Quad State, you must have a pocket full of money and they want it ..... and they will take it ... Again ..... drivers beware. If you have a trailer with iron goods .... you have just become a target ........ Ohio Rusty The Ohio Frontier Forge S.E. Ohio

If you head to Quad State and go up 41 west thru North Hampton - WARNING !! They are nothing more that a bust-the working-man - speed trap. Just like how carnivores hide around waterholes knowing the droves of animals will show up, North Hampton predators are hiding also knowing the blacksmiths are heading for Troy. We spend money when we go, the North Hampton is only interested in burning you as you go thru town. They are getting the last money from me they will ever get. I would not and will not support the village in any way for the rest of my life. I hope the town dries up and blows away. For those familiar with Central Ohio -- THIS VILLAGE IS JUST LIKE NEW ROME !!!!!! YO !! Be forewarned about travelling thru North Hampton on 41 ...... Ohio Rusty

I'll be there on Friday only. I'll have out a big wool 'trade blanket' with lots of sets of tongs for sale, axes, and sundry other things out for everyone interest. I'll have some fine bluegrass music running on my portable XM satellite boom box behind me. When you hear the bluegrass ...you'll know it's me !! Stop by and introduce yourself. It's always great to put new faces with names. Ohio Rusty Purveyor/Blacksmith of The Ohio Frontier Forge S.E. Ohio

The tub says 2000 degree temperature rating. Ohio Rusty ><>

Sorry for the movement/fuzz in the pic. Last weekend I installed the new tuyere grate and put the first layer of refractory cement on the forge bed. The waffle shape on the surface is a fine wire mesh I put over the cement to help stop any cracking when the cement dried. I checked it yesterday, and the cement has hardened nicely and not one shrinkage crack !! The first layer is between 1/8th and 1/4 thick. Another layer will go on top this weekend. By next weekend, the forge should be ready for a nice hot bed of coal !! The tub of refractory cement came from Menards on sale -- $5.00. Ohio Rusty ><>

I mailed my application about ...6 weeks ago give or take..... I just want to be sure I get approved and joined up by the time September and Troy get here ..... I know I have a while to go yet, but thought I'd ask ........ Ohio Rusty ><> There is no sound more lonely than a cold and quiet anvil ..............

Thanks for all the pictures !!! I am thankful and appreciative for your time posting all of this ..... I see where you put washers to the right of the belt wheel to push that whole assembly to the left to line up the pump handle and shaft gear. I was assuming I was going to have to do that, and your picture answered that question. The ratcheting assembly inside the wheel seems pretty simple. I haven't taken mine apart yet..... I was afraid there would be a million moving parts. I was told there is a spring inside .... I sprayed rust-buster on all the nuts and bolts holding things together and letting that work into the threads. The fan in the blower housing spins very easy when I turn it by hand. Soon I have to take the whole blower assembly off the bottom of the forge pot and get it right so it doesn't bump against things. For some reason, the owner before me has put a thick rubber gasket between the two halves of the blower. I'm not sure why, but I believe this is what is causing the wheel to come in contact with the belt wheel. There isn't much play, but the gasket is making the blower housing too wide. If it needs a gasket, a simple thin layer of RTV silicone will work just fine. It works fine on the heads of your hot car engine ......... The long rod with the two eyes ... one commected to the ball and the other connected to the handle ... that will be easy to make. I also need to make the handle. The assembly to mount the handle on is still attached to the forge. Your pics gives me renewed spirit to get started on this little forge and get it running right. I found a couple quarts of refractory cement on sale at menards this weekend. I'll put that on the inside of the forge pot to protect it. Thanks again !! I am thankful for your time and advise .... Ohio Rusty ><>

Thanks Ron for your reply. The idea of the cotton webbing is a great idea. I had been thinking about leather stretching. I have alot of clean up to do on the little forge. Seems the previous owner felt like it belonged on the island of misfit toys and left it outside to rot. That is a shame to not take care of good things ........ Ohio Rusty

If you click on the pics, they get bigger (at least on my laptop) Here is the problem child forge. It needs a good clean up.(This forge was at the top of the muddy hill, being sold by a fellow outside the sheep building. On the other side of the road were all the other folks with tents and lean to's trying to stay dry) It is missing the attachment assembly to the pump handle, the pump handle itself and the leather belt that goes around the wheel and roller. I can make those things ..... The big wheel turns the blower with the leather belt. Unfortunately the wheel is up against the blower and wont turn. I can adjust that problem easily I think. Here is one of the problems .... This ball is what the pump handle assembly and pump handle attach to. See the forge gear attached to the shaft below the swinging gear attached to the ball? The swinging gear and the shaft gear are clearly not in line. The shaft gear SHOULD be centered right under the swinging gear. That gear is way too far to the right. Those two gears mesh together. when the handle is pumped up and down to turn the shaft, which turns the wheel and the leather belt which turns the roller on the blower. So you say ... just move the gear to the left ....... Here is the next major problem. I'll try to explain this issue. That housing with the wheel spokes coming out of it (not knowing the proper name) you see butted up against the leg contains the hand, pawl and spring that makes everything work. The housing is two pieces with all the workings inside. If I can move the shaft gear (second pic) to the left, then that housing will come apart and all the pieces will fall out. Does that whole shaft gear and houising assembly move left and right on the shaft? If I can move it all to the left to line up the gears, there is nothing holding the right side of the housing in place, and there is no lock screw that holds the right side of the housing in place because it spins as it is part of the wheel that turns to turn the blower.. Am I missing some pieces or some kind of spacer between the housing and the leg so everything will stay in place? I don't think this should be butted up tight against the leg. If anyone had pics of one like this in working order, I'd really appreciate pics so I know what I need to do to make this workable. Thanks .......... Ohio Rusty ><>

I'll put photos and explanations in here this evening when I get home from work. Now that I know it's OK to put all my stuff out on this public forum instead of private messaging, I'll post a message later with pic of the problem child forge. Thanks ..... Ohio Rusty ><>

I was looking for one of the older forges that used the pump handle that drove the gear back-n-forth which turned the blower , etc. I had found one at Quad State on that crappy, rainy muddy friday. I checked it out the best that I could without laying down in the mud pit of rain. I bought it and a friend brought it back to Cols for me. Now that is has dried out and I have it home, upon closer examination, there are some major issues with the forge getting it to work correctly. If anyone on the list has one of these pump-handled type forges, please contact me PM I would like to share conversation and pictures with you about what the issues my forge is having and maybe pic's of yours so I can see if mine is missing parts, Why it is out of adjustment, etc. I was already warned not to take the pawl and hand assembly apart that turns the gear and blower because of the parts and the spring inside. I hope the spring is still inside mine. How do i know? Thanks in advance ...... Ohio Rusty ><>

I was caught by a passing train in Columbus Oh yesterday. The train was hauling lots of coal cars heading north. I was thinking it would be nice to have a coal car or two of that coal they were hauling. The coal is probably coming up from either Kentucky or W. Va. What kind of coal do they mine in those states, is it like anthricite coal? Is Ky. / W.Va coal good for forging with? I'm not all that far from either state to be able to get some forge coal. Curious to know ........... Ohio Rusty ><>

Myself and the other half will be there Friday morning for the day. Hopefully I'll find the couple things I am looking for at a fair price. Ohio Rusty ><>

The code may not work in a forum like this ... I'll try a plain jpeg and see if that works OK .... Thanks ........ Update: A plain jpeg works fine .... Ohio Rusty ><>

Testing to see if my avatar I added in the profile page works. In an animation ... Update .. nope ...didn't work ... Hmmmm ........... Ohio Rusty ><>

The Senior Master Curmudgeon wrote: I would forge large staples that would fit over the feet of the anvil ................. That is the answer to my problem !! Thought of everything but that. Thanks Thomas !! I love this place ........ Ohio Rusty ><>

Thanks David and Thomas !! My current anvil is a cast iron 15 pounder. A bit too small, looking to go up a bit in weight and size, but yet still be easily carried. I can't talk the wife into carrying the anvil yet <BG>. A bellows set up would be more correct, but for now the forge is a rivet type forge with a small hand crank blower. I'll look into the Steve Parker anvil info. The place I hang out and pound iron is at Don Yors house... or should I say his garage. Adlai does stop over, along with several other folks you most likely know .... I hope to make Quad state a reality ... but it depends on work .....and money .... Ohio Rusty ><>

I'm on the hunt for a portable anvil. I attend 18th century living history events as a participant, and am changing my event participation from a Scout and longhunter type persona and leaning more toward doing blacksmithing. I have recently acquired a portable forge and blower, but I need an anvil. I have been reading alot on anvils less that 100 pounds .... I have to carry the darn thing !! I know to stay away from any of the chinese junk anvils and cheap made cast iron anvils, and will continue to read and be more educated on these. I'm hoping to find a decent cast steel anvil in the real near future that weighs somewhere between 40 to 60ish pounds. It doesn't have to have a name on it, as long as it is of decent quality, has a good surface, a horn that comes to a good point. I know that there is the large hammer in coming to Troy in September, but there is no guarantee I can get away from work to attend. Thus .... I am starting my hunt here to see if any list members might know where there is a decent lightweight anvil that I can acquire. Quality is first as I will be using that anvil for many years to come at events and at home. Thanks in advance .... Ohio Rusty ><>

I hail by the name of Ohio Rusty. I live in the S.E. Ohio Hill country in Wayne Nat'l Forest. I am a newbie to the world of blacksmithing, but have been making some things (and ruining some things) over the last 6 months or so. I have been a long time 18th century historical re-enactor, but I think I'm getting to old to be a young aged longhunter. The persona doesn't fit my older look in my mid 50's now. I have enjoyed thew awe, mystery and art of blacksmithing for many years, and have just acquired a blower and small portable forge. I have a few tongs and a few hammers, but no real anvil to speak of. My goal now is to portray an 18th century Ohio pioneer settler and blacksmith (think primitive). When I attend historical events or rendevous's, I want to set up a small portable blacksmith area where I can make things, display the fun of iron pounding to others, and maybe make a few things to sell to the public and other re-encators. I have in the past made some 'S' hooks, blanket pins, candle holders and other small items. I'm here to learn from the postings of the other listmembers and to ask questions that will help me learn more. Tuesday evenings in Grove City Ohio I attend an informal gathering of 4 other 'smiths that are much more experienced where I can ask questions while pounding on white hot iron things. My next task is to make a small coal rake and clinker poker for my little portable forge. I hope by fall I can attend some of the forts like Fort Randolph in W. Va. and Ft. Boonesboro in Ky. and have enough experience to make a good coal fire and bend iron well and not make junk. Ohio Rusty