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I Forge Iron

LongShadows

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Everything posted by LongShadows

  1. Hi, I have used Tempil sticks, extensively during my 40+ years as a Journeyman Tool and Die Welder. They are a fine product with great accuracy. (But, they are quite pricey!) They work fine for Pre-heat, interpass temperature and Post-heat during proper applications of welding/heat treat procedures for Tool Steels. I have moved on to using the proper rated electronic laser pointer type IR sensor guns. I am not a blade maker, but I have done the "heat treating" for dozens of hopeful knife and sword makers. I have flame-hardened fillet knives made from saw blades; case hardened marginal steel blades in cyanide salts; Bowies made from D2; many have attempted using files!!; 400 series stainless steel for swords; and yes, the prized 5160 from leaf springs. I was fortunate to be working for GM in Fisher Body's Blacksmith shop in Lansing, MI. where I completed my apprenticeship. With access to a lot of equipment and resources, I would never turn anyone away, no matter how ill conceived or hopeless their project. I loved the challenge of pushing the envelope! The proper procedure for all hardenable steels is always HARDEN completely, then TEMPER it back to the desired hardness. And, the variances in thickness which drastically affect the "soak-times"; and the thinness factor of a blade, which mandates a controlled atmosphere during all phases of the heat treating process, all combine to make the use and observation of a Tempil stick problematic. Tempil sticks are successfully used all the time, but as soon as your atmosphere is exposed the process becomes uncontrolled, and close tolerance hardness cannot be achieved. But, it is "good enuff" or "in the ballpark" for most home-styled blade makers. The best results I had were from the use of an electric furnace with Omron temperature controllers. If you are serious about your craft you will be willing to spend the several thousands for good core equipment. Many people spend high dollars for a Bass boat that only gets used a handful of times each year, but they will balk at laying down comparable dollars for metal working equipment they can use all year long! Good luck in your endeavors!
  2. There are already many good responses to your original question, but I thought I'd share an URL that is loaded with good info about many steels, including heat treat procedures. www.suppliersonline.com
  3. This is not only a great topic, but it is timely as well. Only recently have I started to sell my artwork. Before this point, it felt to me like I was selling my children! (lots of sentimental value) As my art teacher told me, " Get over it! You gotta eat, don't you? " These are the few rules that help me in determining price. 1 . Keep track of the hours you actually put into making the piece. 2 . Keep track of your material costs and add ten per cent for carrying fee. 3 . Determine how much your time and skill are worth per hour, and stick to it! If Anyone in a service oriented business were to waffle on their prices and 'give someone a break' by lowering their bill, they would never get called back by that customer in the future because they will begin to doubt your abilities and even your honesty.
  4. Great idea and very cool! I like I t a lot.
  5. Looks like you were using up a lot of fun that day!
  6. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 9

    Thank you, Rodney!
  7. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 4

    It presents well, from the back, but is mostly designed to view from the front.
  8. The term "mild steel" is part of any metal craftsman's vernacular, but it ought not to be used since it is at best an imprecise definition and is not a category in the manner that most people use it. While I am not a metallurgist, I did study several courses in metallurgy in college and have a fair understanding of its definitions and some of its processes. It has been my experience that what many call Mild steel is just about anything softer than a Mill Bastard File. I dare say that what many are quenching in Gunter's famous Super Quench is NOT mild steel if it results in turning the steel hard. I used to run a Blacksmith shop at Fisher Body in Lansing, MI and we would boil cold rolled 1018 steel pins in cyanide salts over a banked coal fire in our forge. The molten cyanide has a lot of free carbon molecules that are introduced into the space lattice of the 1018 steel at around 2,000 deg. F. Since the steel is well below its melting point the carbon is only allowed to migrate into a very thin 'outer shell' of the steel. (just a few thousandths) Thus, the term: Case Hardening. A fairly hard outer shell with a softer inner core. Using a very long handle for safety, we would lift the stainless steel basket (with the pins) out of the cyanide and throw them (basket and all, glowing bright orange) into a submerged strainer in a tank of very cold running water. That would create a fast quench with a loud shotgun-like blast that sprayed water and cyanide about fifteen feet. (of course we used shields and containment curtains) The quenching process locks the carbon molecules into a body-centered tetragonal space lattice. That makes it very hard and brittle, but because plain carbon steels are not very easily through-hardened without adding some other alloying elements, it generally leaves the core tough and resilient. I suspect, that Gunter's Super Quench contains molecules of free carbon that may possibly migrate into the outer skin of the steel, but it seems very unlikely because the time frame for this to happen is less than a second. We used to boil our pins in cyanide for 15 - 20 minutes 'at heat', in order for the carbon to migrate from the cyanide into the steel. Only then would we quench it to lock in what had already taken place! Without a migration of carbon molecules into a true 'mild steel' there can be no hardening of that steel. Therefore if someone has "success" hardening with that quench, then it is only because that steel already had a significant enough percentage of carbon and/or alloying elements in its original makeup to allow that to happen! If you need to harden and temper steel, buy the proper steel to start with. Happy Trails!
  9. LongShadows

    candleholder.gif

    Very nice! I gotta try one. How did you flare the holder so perfectly?
  10. LongShadows

    CNC Cut Anvil

    Very nice job! I am in the process of fabricating a small anvil from a 3" thick piece of FX2 (a modified H12 mtl.) I hope my anvil turns out as nice as yours did.
  11. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 9

    One regret: painting it. I've learned to appreciate all patinas, including rust...
  12. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 8

    Probably not such a bad wooden trellis for a blacksmith.
  13. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 7

    And this, being Michigan, it always snows (except when it's being so hot)!
  14. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 6

    The leaf handle and latch.
  15. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 5

    Underwater scene.
  16. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 4

    Added a sturdier frame so it wouldn't all collapse!
  17. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 3

    Put the bird in the water.
  18. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 2

    Make a flowing stream.
  19. LongShadows

    Making the Gate 1

    Cold hammered Blue Heron
  20. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 5

    Kinda looks more like a carnation, eh?
  21. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 5

    For my wife.
  22. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 4

    TIG welded it all together.
  23. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 3

    And voila! It's done - oops, I forgot to keep taking pictures.
  24. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 2

    Cut the pieces.
  25. LongShadows

    Copper Rose 1

    Make the templates.
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