Brad L

I can' tell if it was ground/milled off. All i can say for sure is I'm not the first guy to hammer on it. It's had a hard life

There it is. You can see the piece mesing on th edge there are another couple cracks. One at the hardy hole. 

The top is wore off and the wrought iron body is showing through in plaes

14 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Gunther method of anvil repair is still the gold standard.

I might try that thanks

Hi guys I got a question for you. My old mouse hole anvil (best guess) is wore out. The hardened top is almost totally gone. I'm looking for suggestions on a fix. I can't fix it by forge welding a new top on. I don't have a big enough forge. Any suggestions?

That looks great

I should add I was never a big fan of them either until I held one. For a working knife I really like them, better than wood. I should add be careful using chemicals like bleach. I washed the blade with water then wiped it down with alcohol when I was switching chemicals. I don't know enough to advise people on chemicals use so better safe than sorry.

Thanks for the comments guys

How did you etch the 5160?  I'm making some 5160 hunters and I love your patina.

I tried so much stuff I'm not 100% sure but bleach seamed to work the best. The key was to soak in bleach then rub with steel wool. I did 20 cycles of bleach then scrub trying to keep the finish even 

Here is my latest take on the kukri. I was trying for a Rick Marchand look (without trying to build a copy) rugged and coarse sort of like it was just dug out of the ground. The blade is 5160 with a heavy etch, wrought iron fittings and cord handle. The cord is soaked in epoxy, I peened the pommel on so its good and solid. 



Here is a close up of the etch

Random handle pics

I'm no expert but it looks great to me. I like the tire and motor low like that good job

Thanks for posting, what a cool shop

Thanks guys for the comments guys.

Here is the latest 1095 with a dirty hamon (for lack of a better term) and a cord wrapped handle. The blade is 5 3/4" long, the guard is mild steel, hammer finish and antiqued.

Wow I just saw this thread, I would love to try this. Thanks for posting

I here you about the coatings, I'm a little paranoid about my lungs. I like the twisted square stock like a spiral nail. I want to make some gate hardware and don't want to ruin the look with galvanized hardware. I guess I will buy and modify.

Anybody ever try to make lag bolts? I have tried to figure out a way to make screw threads but I'm drawing a blank.

The knife is roughly square 4 1/2" blade and 4 1/2" handle, 9" over all

Thanks guys for the comments

Hey Darren that would be pretty cool, if your over this side of the bay stop by

I finally got a knife done. A little drop point hunter. 1095 blade steel, 416 guard, and stabilized walnut handle. Been rough getting anything built in 2014 (Small kids seam to take up a lot of time)






Comments good bad or otherwise are always welcome.

I really like that nice work

 

 

I really like it. Do you sell your knives?

Yes I try to sell a few here and there.

Thanks for the comments guys

 

 

How does it open? Can't see any "hold-on"-s on the blade.

The tang that extends beyond the handle that is the way to open it. I made a short video that shows it working.

Thanks for the comments guys

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67bPFWwNiD4&feature=youtu.be

I use oil to quench, water is rough on 1084. Thanks guys

Another one like the last one. 1084 edge quenched, stabilized maple burl. 416 stainless guard. Now I have some sheathes to make

Here is one I have just finished. 1084 edge quenched, stabilized maple burl handle, brass guard. 4 1/2" blade, 9" overall. Opinions are always welcome.

Thanks guys

Good to see your over hear Rob. Lots of cool stuff to try in your new forge