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nonjic

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Everything posted by nonjic

  1. hmmm, I would think that a Fabreeka pad is to dense for the light hammer, and will not attenuate much vibration at all (brilliant for under the anvil of a serious hammer though) - I spend an eye watering amount of money with them every year ! I would worry about horse stall mat being to bouncy, but im sure it would do the job. (sometimes the frequency of the hammer and the mat get a jiggle on and it will try and rip the anchors out) If it was my hammer I would go for 3 or 4 strips of 'Tico S' pad 4" wide x 1/2" thick. Its not cheap either, but miles less than the fabreeka. You dont need 100% base coverage (read up the loadings the stuff will take!). Make sure you use washers made of the same material under the steel washers of the hold down bolts, otherwise you will just be transmitting the vibration down through the bolts. If your Anyang is on a factory fabricated base the first thing you should do is fill it with concrete, or sand.
  2. dang sam, Chuck Norris would stuggle to 90 deg flip the billet between blows on that one!
  3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN4CbKp9EfI&feature=youtu.be looks nice and solid there Harry ! (hammer, not your xxxx for 45 seconds!) You have worked out the 'throw under' catch for the foot lever ? you can adjust it via that bolt and locking nut to get the tup idling / swinging a bit at the top of the stroke. This is one of only 3 of this type of hammer I am assembling. It has got a full 250 kg anvil resilently mounted in the base (a one piece, 2 piece hammer!). I did these hammers as a trial, in my opinion way better than a 'standard' one piece hammer. They just take to long to build properly, so I cant do any more of them.
  4. Sounds like a fun project ! My gut feeling is it is a job for springs not air, could you stick the motor up in the roof eaves to shrink the footprint down ?
  5. one mans 'dull' file (especially a machinists!) is often a perfectly servicable file to another man :D
  6. You dont need to stand next to a larger hammer, in an industrial forge, working agressively on tough material to realise why the dies are not held on with bolts that could shear !
  7. I totally agree with the comments about the unacceptable risks of kids using high powered hand tools, under your supervision, or otherwise. My suggestions for using a cut off disk in a grinder as a viable method of chopping stock assumed that the original poster of this thread is a competent adult, able to assess the benefits and drawbacks of all the suggestions and make his own decisions.
  8. John McPherson. I dont understand your point ??? Take all the safety guards off any piece of equipement mentioned in this thread and it increases the chances of it becoming dangerous. The thread isnt about the 'safest' 'least dramatic' way of cutting bar. Its about viable (and cost effective) ways of cutting 2" bar. Who suggested removing all the safety features from a grinder to use it to cut solid bar ??? Nothing more dangerous about using a cut off wheel, in a tool designed to do it, than using many of the other techniques suggested in this thread. Its bordering on partonising not to suggest a technique because it is potentially dangerous in the event you dont follow safety procedures and use common sense, or because there is a chance they are a 'newby' and might not be 'ready' to use a tool. There is nothing particularly unsafe about my suggestion of pinning a heavy bar to the deck with your foot to chop it with a grinder - a 6' bar of 2" dia does not move that much. grinders can kick, O/a can set fire to stuff, bandsaws can jam, chopsaws can glaze and burst their disc hot cutting large stock can maim you in so many ways etc.
  9. 30 posts and no one has mentioned the old blacksmiths multitool ? :D 9" or 10" angle grinder with cut off discs. You can be through 2" stock in the time its taken me to type this (and I type pretty quick!) If im not near the bandsaw I grab the grinder. If its a piece of a longer bar I trap it under the heel of my left foot on the deck, chop a bit, grinder out, push left foot forward to roll bar, chop a bit and repeat.
  10. Having a taper on at least 2 components in the die wedging arrangement is very important. It stops the dies falling out ;) The standard im used to on a hammer is parrallel dovetail in the ram / sow block, taper in the die and key. For small hammers, with multiple sets of dies it really makes more sense to have the taper in the ram and sow block. This means ease of manufacturing for all the die sets (parrallel dovetails) Standard tapers im used to working with 1/8:12" taper (1:96) on most older hammers, 8 degrees angle. New chinese hammers are 1:100 , 7 degrees.
  11. If you are just looking for a few thou on the valves hard chrome plating works well, and push a bore hone down the tubes.... Is the 'doo dad' that lets air into the top of the compressor piston bore deffinatly letting enough air into the bore when the cranks at BDC ? If there was not enough fresh 'atmposhere' air coming into the 'top' of the system when the pumps at the bottom of its stroke it could get a bit 'vacumme' ( :lol: cant even spell, let alone describe!) - Lower pressure on top of the compressor piston = lower pressure above the ram = higher ram lift. edit - suppose it cant generate to much of a low pressure as the valve is partially open to exhaust (atmosphere) at light treadle.... Ill keep mulling it...
  12. You need to put some proper gland packing tape in it now.
  13. Unless the sloppy bearing is making the compressor piston cycle a slightly different stroke length every reciprocation, through the crank bouncing, I dont see how it can affect the tap TAP tap issue....
  14. Any photos? sounds like a cool press (or will be when its set up right!) Be very carefull if you are temped to cycle the press against cold metal to verify pressures etc when setting it up. I heard about a guy last week, that was killed a couple of years ago doing that when the billet he was pressing against flicked out.
  15. To adjust the valve to '0' (zero stamped on the tube) you do not adjust the top valve portion. You move the whole valve up. The adjustable top valve portion is to make best of the 'full work' position only. Since the adjustment of the whole valve up or down is a 'factory' setting , and then it is pinned with a taper pin in the bottom socket it is unlikely to have changed. This suggests that the valve linkages / handlever have got strained at some point, perhaps when the machine was moved. If the whole valve is 1.5 mm out are you sure that your 'low pressure hold up' position is not just 1.5 mm out ? - ie, can you find a handlever position (ignoring the slots on the quadrant) where the tup lifts ok? The other possibility is wear in the links and pins that attach to the valve, they should only have 0.001" clearance. A 2 cwt with the stuffing box clearances you measured should not have a problem lifting to low pressure hold up. You could try strips of thick leather as the stuffing box packing. The other thing to check is if the escape holes are plugged in the skirt of the compressor piston. (you can view this from the side access cover with the crank at BDC. I would put the top valve portion back to where it should be before making more adjustments to things. Do one thing at a time, then check it. Its easy to get in a mess if you try lots of things at once ! :D
  16. I know of at least half a dozen factories in China making 'C41' series hammers. Again, I am speculating, but I think it might stem back to the more communist days of China, before free trade and competition was encouraged. The Chinese ministry of machine building could well have just said 'your a hammer factory' 'your a hammer factory' etc etc, and they all worked to the same information. The 'C41' hammers I have seen from various different factories in China are obviously closely related !
  17. Edit to the above post, Ive just cheked some drawings for the Massey clear space hammers, and they were model number 'CS31' - so prolly just a coincidence!
  18. Ive see references on some of the very old Massey drawings where the 'Clear Space' hammers have 'C41' as the type. Might be some old commodity code before the new harmonised standard codes came in ?
  19. Had a long chat with the moon this afternoon (middle of the night down under) He said everyone had gone to bed.... He also said he would buy the 20 or so folks there a beer from me ! (and pay for it himself, perhaps a couple of vb's consumed? :lol:) enjoy your beer from a Brit, paid for by an Auzzy everyone :D sounds like a lot of fun - sad not to be there!
  20. Great work! love how you have tapered the core bars to the final shape, and nailed the fuller right on the edge of the wrap ! the low layers are very effective. Super neat twisting aswell ! I bet you were twitching a bit not to have any 'plain' on the interupted portions keeping the layers 'up' :D (was that nine twists, or nine and a half.... eeek, :lol: )
  21. any valve assembly drawings you could post up ? edit, larry, its my understanding (ie, might not be correct!) that to get light, short blows you do not have any air providing a cushion. What you are doing is diverting a % of the air that is generated by the pump piston to atmosphere, not to the ram bore.
  22. can you plug, or partially plug, either top or bottom compressor piston air?
  23. Slowing the hammer down can change the nature of the blow, it stops the air 'fighting' or 'catching up with itself'. , though not in the case of your hammer! Are there any escape holes in the compressor piston that have been plugged up ? excess air can lead to long elastic light blows.
  24. Slowing it down by 10% or so with a VFD should give it some manners. I have worked on a couple of un-usable hammers, that are lovely once slowed down a smidge.
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