jimbob

I've cut several square holes in 1" plate and I found that 1/4 wide chisel works much better that 3/8 or 1/2 wide one !

only the top 1 1/2 to 2 inches is what is important to hold the tool that being said drill the top side to 7/8 and counter bore the bottom side larger, then heat in the forge and drift ...then your going to need two men and a boy to remove it from the fire

Lucas oil or bar chain oil both are tacky and stay on the gears.

I tried making a dishing tool from the pictures that were posted of one a year or so ago I could not get it deep enough,but after taking a class with Brian he pointed out to mushroom over the top part of the dish and then drive ball end fuller in to it it more or less form's itself. what I used for a ball fuller was a 2¼ trailer ball with a wire wrapped handle ...

I found this on the web it's good for determining how much stock to use for your hammer weight

have you tried the guy on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/1045-Steel-2-Round-X-4-Long-15-Pieces-Hot-Roll-NEW-/290378741042?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439bebf532

look at this one http://web.archive.org/web/20041014213636/keenjunk.com/sketchbk/rw21009.htm and this one

thanks for the pictures ...I see another hammer in the making now...

there was pictures of one posted on the forum a while back was just a cage to hold the spring with a slot in it to catch a pin welded on the back of the top die to hold it open

a spring to keep it open would be nice

go to tractor supply see if a the exhaust cap for a tractor might work ...

you could also use one 6" and one 4" don't know how tall you need it but at least 3 of each

you make a good point I hadn't looked at that way ...thanks for the eye opener

the cost is what is keeping me from doing it that way...

that's kin of what I was planning on except I was going to put a solid piece in the tube as close to the inside diameter and pour lead around it ...the plate that I have on it now has a 1" hardy on in it for tooling so it needs the recess for the shank....why does lead work int the top(hammer end) but not the bottom Anvil end?

A few years back my guild(Ocmulgee Blacksmith guild) had a treadle hammer build we built this hammer http://brainfortunes.com/Treadlehammer/Treadlehammer.htm after using for a few years with mixed results I believe this hammer is in need of a couple of modification . at present it has 75 pounds of lead in the head ...problem is the bottom anvil side is just 4" square tube with a 1" plate with a hardy hole in it ...what I am thinking of doing is one adding a four inch spacer, as I believe we welded the 1" plates on top of the tubes (I believe they should have been recessed) this will give more room under the hammer. the next thing is adding weight to the anvil tube I was thing while I have the top cut adding the spacer to remove the 1" plate and drop about 30 inches of 3" square solid down it and pour lead around to make it solid then weld it all back together this should add about 100-125 pounds to the bottom anvil tube...any thoughts on this from you guys?

I lined mine with red clay the first time; it lasted about 20 years or so; then the last time I used fireplace cement from ACE hardware. the whole purpose is to insulate the cast iron from the heat so it won't crack ...I used mine unlined when the red clay fell out and that is what happened and I had to mig it back ...

there also the ones who always seen to set themselves up to be the authority on everything ...never knowing what someone else might show them

$20 a pound is bit pricey

you could also try Moscow hide and fur http://www.hideandfur.com/

looks like about 197 less

bout how much does that anvil weigh

Mark Aspery showed me and Isometric exercise that helps ...put your hands together at mid chest pushing against each other then point your hands down while still pushing ...do this a few times before you start work . seems to help me.

Glenn so sorry for your loss

they make a hold down like the vise grip type for your drill press I have one I had to extend the threaded part to fit my anvil