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I Forge Iron

fluidsteel

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Everything posted by fluidsteel

  1. I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying this build. I just got my own shop(garage) for the first time since I started making knives and have downloaded all of Eric's plans from his WIP build he did. I'm planning on a build almost identical to his except I am planning mine to have channel slots on the base so I can either use a forklift of a pallet jack to move it. I plan on using a slightly longer stroke than his because I plan on doing feather pattern damascus billets and need more space for a chisel die. Your 20" stroke should cover just about any task! Are you planning to use his wiring diagram and use the foot petal controls too like he uses?
  2. That is a lovely anvil. I'd use it. But, would be tempted to set it aside as well. I passed on buying a 150# Fisher here about 6 months ago for $500. In retrospect I am kicking myself....It was every bit as nice as that one. I bought a bunch of old hammers from a collector including some 100 year wrenches that I keep in my tool bucket. The poor guy was torn between being happy I'd use them and worried their "mint" condition would be ruined. Lol As a knifemaker. I depend on collectors wanting to collect so I can sell knives to but more tools! I love collectors!!! The bad people are the SCRAPPERS!!!! I'm sure you'll enjoy that anvil!
  3. If you watch Craigslist there are often deals to be had here in Portland. What are you doing for blacksmithing? I have 500# or more of forklift tine drops. You could make a decent post anvil in a pinch. The bigger drops are 90# and 2-1/2"x6"x16". There's 5-6 on CL now. The 400# for $1,000 isn't too bad of a price per pound..... But. I found my 300# Fisher for $360 and 120# for $130 by looking 8-9 times or more a day. I've seen other anvils posted that were removed in minutes/hours that were posted at or near $1.00 a pound. It really pays to look often.
  4. Nice start for sure! Get some 1080/1084 and canola oil and you'll be making knives in no time! I tried making knives as cheap as possible. I'm at least $4,000 in so far..... It's like a disease...
  5. Congratulations! Sounds like you are happy! Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new baby. I've bought 3 anvils all for less than $2.00 a pound here in Oregon where they aren't easy to find for less than $3.00 a pound. My 300# Fisher was only $360.00 But, I've found that there are more anvils available than most people think. They show up on Craigslist and sometimes are gone in an hour if priced low. If a person doesn't have an auto search running, or doesn't check 10 times a day they'd never know that there were good deals to be had.
  6. She's a beauty. Nothing like a hundred+ year old anvil all shiny and full of luster! Nice thick waist. Should move metal nicely!
  7. A "secret" to finding anvils on Craigslist. Set up a search with your smart phone if you have one so it alerts you when an anvil is posted. Or, check 5-10 tines a day. My 300# fisher was listed at 10:00 at night and was removed by 8:00am the next day. I paid $360.... I've seen several others pop up and sell in minutes/hours since then. Before I started checking 5-10 times a day I thought there weren't any anvils for sale in my area. I could buy 2 a month if I needed one using this method. Call around to see if there's a salvage yard, or a forklift repair shop with a single fork or bent fork they are wiling to sell. I have gotten 800# plus of free tines this year and all my friends are happy to use them as post anvils. Great for bladesmithing.
  8. Aldo is the man. Especially if you are close enough to pick it up from him. For 1080, 1095 and CruForge V you can order from Kelly Cupples. [email protected] e-mail Kelly and he'll send you a current price list The great thing about Kelly is the steel barstock is free UPS ground on orders over $100.
  9. As too the original question, no, not any way to re heat treat your blade with the handle on. Heat it again, with whatever method you used to just past non-magnetic. Get a magnet. :-) quench in canola oil slightly warmed. Temper in an oven at 400f for 1 hour 2x. Another likely cause if losing an edge IF you had hit your temps right could have been decarb. I see it often where makers won't take enough steel off after heat treat to get below the decarb layer and test for hardness and can't figure out why they have low numbers.
  10. Nice. For your info. Channel lock brand pliers are made of 1080. It's a great steel to work with. Peter Pruyn(Brothersville knives) Gene Martin and Mike Turner are all in your neck of the woods. Don't miss the OKCA show in April in Eugene! 400 tables of knives! Welcome to the addiction!
  11. Nice. For your info. Channel lock brand pliers are made of 1080. It's a great steel to work with. Peter Pruyn(Brothersville knives) Gene Martin and Mike Turner are all in your neck of the woods. Don't miss the OKCA show in April in Eugene! 400 tables of knives! Welcome to the addiction!
  12. Craftsman 2"x42" $140 or so, they are screaming fast, but you can get blaze belts from Trugrit and be good to go. The plate. Will need some work, but, google Craftsman 2"x42" mods and you'll see what guys have done with theirs. A 2"x72" is ideal. But the Craftsman will get you started. The 4"x36" is basically a woodworking tool. I'd skip it for blades. The other option is a 9" disc. Uses standard sheets of paper but you can grind blades well with practice on one. I have 2 and love em.
  13. I have plenty of 1/8"-1/4"x2"x2" pieces salvaged from 100# of old fuses for Mokume. I was just thinking ahead and considering a turned copper handle for a future project. I have 100# of scrap copper, and 300# of mixed brass. I get that much or more annually. Since I have a dozen soft firebricks I'll try melting a batch. Thanks guys. Mod note: Typo corrected as smelting is extraction from ores
  14. So, As a plumber I get a good bit of copper scrap every year. I use some of the thicker stuff for guards on my knives, but 99% goes to the scrapper to fund my tool budget. That being said, has anyone here successfully forge welded copper pipe together to make thicker pieces for guards, etc? I have a blown gas forge with a type K thermocouple. I can run it without too much work at most temps up to 2,400 degrees+ Should I try it like I'm making Mokume but with only copper?
  15. Thought I'd mention there's one for Sale in Portland Oregon on CL. It's been on there for months and started at over $750 now it's down to $500
  16. There's only one handling hole in back. The other hole's the hardie hole coming down. That is a lovely anvil. I wish I knew the life my 1913 Fisher lived before I got it. If only your anvil could speak!
  17. I found a 200# Anvil on HABA for sale.....1) Anvil is 200 lb Kohlswa London pattern. Hardie hole is 1 1/4", Pritchel hole is 3/4" faceplate is 4 5/8"x 17 3/4", overall length is 29 3/4", and the height is 12" For reference....My medium size anvil is a Kohlswa #119 with a 3/4" hardie hole. The top one in this picture is my Kohlswa, the bottom is my 300# Fisher minus a bit of the horn...
  18. Yup... Not, golly, that's nice. Or anything like that. Do I remember right that Josh doesn't have one?
  19. Sweet! I can't wait to see them. Especially the big post vise!
  20. Yup I'd keep looking too. I got my 300# Fisher for $360, my 119# Kohlswa for $150, and a really old English pattern 55# for $140 All three were from an anvil poor area. My method was this. I used SearchTempest and searched 4-5 times a day. The Fisher was added to Craig'slist at 9:40PM and I found it at 10:00PM. I was at his house at 8AM an hour ahead of another guy..... I checked, and it was removed by 9AM.... 99% of the public never knew a 300# Fisher was ever for sale in my area. It was the same thing with the Kohlswa. It went on at 8AM. I was at his house on my first "break" at 8:30AM....
  21. Here in Oregon where you and I are? $800-$1,200? Depending on make, and condition. I bought a lovely 300# Fisher for $360 recently.. but I'm sure that it could have gone for $600 easily likely more. I just went to an auction and saw a 120# farriers anvil go for over $400. Portland Craig'slist has anvils go for $3.00 a pound frequently. I mean, 400# is too big. I'll take it off your hands. I wouldn't want you to get hurt moving it?
  22. Sounds like you have what you have to work with. I think your idea of welding two pieces base to base and standing on end is a good idea. It will give you a decent area to work on. Not sure how well the lead will bond to the steel and not get a gap that will eventually allow vibration/ringing. It's worth a try. In one of Wayne Goddard's books, The $50 Knife Shop or The Wonder of Knifemaking, he has an anvil made from track that he still uses that's been modified by filling the valley's like you are suggesting but it's set flat, not on end. I say do it and get to work. The most you have to lose is time. I imagine it won't be as efficient as a traditional anvil, but not everyone starts with one. The only alternative I'd suggest is trying to find a piece of 4"x4" or so scrap 4140 etc to make a post anvil. I know several knifemakers who use a post anvil like that exclusively.
  23. Awesome! I'd love to have Pearl Jam practice at my place..... What a lucky Smith!
  24. True, but I keep having these visions of an array of different sized anvils set up like a drum set... and 8'x12' barely works for that. :)
  25. Thanks for all the replies. After a year of very little forge work I know its time to put all my book knowledge to work.. I'm working on 3/4" minus gravel fill so I'm going to work to get my height where I want it and due to my ADD avoid working on a platform lest I forget and step off it in a moment of(squirrel)....... I've used a stake anvil in the past that sits up 12" or so for stuff like forging in the ricasso on my blades. I plan on using my friends 100# Bradley to forge a few hardie tools... Luckily, I have a couple hundred pounds of forklift tine cut-offs from 1-1/2"x4" to 3"x9" so a taller post anvil can be added later..If space allows that is....
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