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Everything posted by fluidsteel

  1. Here's a small portion of the tine drops I have. I made a 900# anvil stand... :rolleyes: The biggest piece I have that will easily fit in a flat rate box is the one I posted dimensions of. It's the same size as the tines on the top of the stack. For size reference. The two square plates with the rusty edges are 1-1/2"x13"x13"....I'd honestly just use my big piece to make a Brian Brazeal type striking anvil... But I'm me, and you are you, right? :blink:
  2. I have an almost identical anvil. Mine's only got 53 stamped on the side. The same multi piece welded feet, base, waist, horn to heel with tool steel face. It'd be a two fer one if you find who made it. Here's the thread where I shared mine.
  3. Well. I just happen to have a 2-1/2"x6"x11-1/4" piece of a forklift tine.... e-mail me and we can figure something out if you're interested. I have a longer piece but it'd either cost more for shipping since it wouldn't fit in a priority mail box, or I'd have to cut it down to fit a priority box.
  4. It depends. If you use Drop-In anchors like these you can unbolt the stand and move it without a trip hazard and can easily replace it. http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/drop-in/index.aspx Para bolt anchors are another choice but aren't as easy to patch over and stick up if you need to move the stand.
  5. Sounds like you have a Trenton. As far as welding it up. It's possible. The anvil would need to be pre-heated and you'll need to do a bit of research. Here's something to get you started.
  6. She's a real beauty! $115? You stole that anvil!
  7. To be clear. The wagon wheels that are around the wooden wheel are typically wrought iron. The all metal old wagon wheels are not wrought. $10.00 is a good price. Our only local scrap yard raised the prices for the wagon wheels after someone mentioned to them that they were wrought iron.... :( The bigger wheels cost close to $100 now. I just got a wheel from a guy who had it in his front yard and the wood finally rotted away. I just had to haul away all the old wood too! :D
  8. I worked on the design a bit more. I'm going to try putting into a 2D image program the next couple of days. I removed the rectangle and moved the 1" and 1-1/4" through squares over 1/2" to eliminate their lining up with the edges of the features around the sides and the resulting stress risers. I also made the bottom of the 1/2 squares an 1/8" radius....and, I rounded the edges of all the other cutouts. I might even move some of the side cutouts so that instead of being in graduating sizes they better eliminate any possible stress risers. By eliminating the rectangle in the center it leaves a good sized area that can be later customized if a person so chooses. Any more thoughts? I might be getting another 10 or so pieces of forklift tines to make it 18 swage blocks that I'll make so I would like to get it right. :D I have 300# of 1-1/2" stock that's between 3-3/4" and 4-3/4" wide. I just might have to cut them into 2" pieces and build my forge press and make corresponding top tools.... B) I had a medical bill eat up the $1,200 I had set aside for a forging press and am just getting the fund built back up.
  9. Hephaestus came through for me. I beat a guy to this anvil by 15 minutes when I bought it last week. :ph34r: Bought it for $300. I sold my 119# Kohlswa for $250 today to the guy I beat out for this 157# beauty. I didn't tell him I swooped in on him.... But he was disappointed enough to mention it.... Turns out he's a farmer and wants an anvil for working on tractor equipment. :wacko: :blink: I hated to sell him the anvil and tried to talk him into one of my 3"x6"x16" forklift tine drops but he wanted a horn. The good news is that Kohlswa is built like a pig. It's as stout as an anvil can be. I bet if he beats on it for 20 years his kids might need to weld the edges up and that'd be it. :D He would have destroyed this Fisher if I was 15-20 minutes later getting to the guys house last week. As it is, the Kohlswa got offered up as a sacrifice to Hephaestus. :( :( I made my stand today. 2" sch 40 steel pipe for the legs. Picked up a 61# 1-1/2"x13"x13" piece of plate last week for my stand top plate.. I went into the shop today and welded it up. I might add sand and oil to the legs later, but as it is the stand doesn't ring....It weighs 84# and is nice and stable. I added U bolts for hammers and tongs but didn't want to add too many and have them in the way of my legs. They're easy to add later. There are 3"x6" plates at the base of the legs so I can fasten the stand to the floor at a later time. The anvil sits 35" high. The legs are at 8 degrees off of vertical. And there's a 3/4" pipe welded as a cross brace 8" down from the top. This is my blade smithing anvil and next week I'll make a stand for my 300# Fisher. That stand has a 1-1/2"x 20" long pear shaped plate that weighs 107#. With the stand my striking anvil will weigh around 430#. I'm planning on it being closer to 30" high so I can use top tools. I have some of Don Hanson III's W2 rounds that are 2.5" diameter and 14" long that I'll need to strike down into blade shapes...
  10. I'd buy it. I have 2 nice sized post vises so I would not need it for pounding on. I'd say it would be an awesome vise for filing and maybe holding stuff to weld etc. It's a cool old vise and I love cool old vises!
  11. The info you gave us isn't going to help. Sorry. Have a friend with an iPhone? Or any phone with a camera? Without pics we're in the dark.
  12. Here's a good thread to give you some ideas for your anvil! Enjoy!
  13. With all my googlefu I was only able to find reference to one anvil made for arching auto springs.(and that was by a bunch of machinists....) This picture from the 1876 Centennial Expo has a 450# Fisher with what looks like dovetails cut into it. What is that Fisher made for? Is there even such a thing as a re-arching anvil?
  14. Honestly, for a couple hundred bucks or less buy a horizontal 4"x6" bandsaw. Turn it on and walk away. Come back when the cut has finished.... I cut a piece of forklift tine at work Friday on our horizontal 9" saw. The piece was 2-1/2"x5" and it took around 15 minutes....
  15. You have a lot of hammer marks. I'd say that dressing your hammer face would help. What kind of hammer are you using? Keep at it!
  16. I have to admit that I bought a Roger Lorance swage block for close to full price at $200... New they are $208 plus shipping.. :blink: :wacko: I had little knowledge of swage blocks at that time. I did know that $360 for the 300# Fisher anvil from the same guy was a good deal though! :ph34r: <_<... The funny thing was he had a cone mandrel for $100 that I was kicking myself at the time for passing up since it had a small 3/4" shank. LOL :(
  17. If it's single phase AC, you'll ruin it turning it down. If it's 3 phase get a VFD. If it's single phase you'll need to use step pulleys to slow it down. It might be easier to just get a new motor. I run a 1.5Hp 3Ph 1725 RPM motor through a KBAC27D VFD. I have the VFD set at 2x speed and have that mounted on a GIB grinder from Jamie at Polar Bear Forge. I also have a 9" disc grinder with a 3Ph motor running off of the same VFD via a switch. I'd recommend getting a 3Ph motor and VFD if you can. One thing to consider, my VFD was $400+ from Wayne Coe, but, plenty of people have had success with the TECO VFD's for a fraction of the price. They aren't a NEMA 4 rated enclosure and are potentially damaged by steel dust....
  18. Sweet! Be sure to share pics before and after the repair!!!
  19. There is a 135#/140# Fisher in NC right now. Javan Dempsey has it posted in the Knifemakers for sale area of Bladeforums...
  20. I search CL often for anvils and blacksmith tools. Somehow I missed this one.The seller used plurals in his post and the search on my phone doesn't always find the same search results as when I search on my laptop. I'm off work for a week for a ventral hernia repair and have been filling my time on the computer reading through all the WIP's I can find while I recover and got an e-mail from a 16 year old kid that I gave a 140# 3-1/2"x8"x16" or so piece of forklift tine to. He saw this anvil add with a few other forge items on CL. Yay! I picked up the anvil today. 15 minutes ahead of another guy who was coming to get it....(SORRY!!) :( :unsure: .... :ph34r: 150# 1907 Fisher with the eagle on the side. 95% rebound. It's amazing that the rebound is as good as my 300# Fisher. Drop a 1" ball bearing from 15" and I only have to slightly spread my fingers to catch it on the rebound on both anvils. The real trick was loading it without lifting it since my hernia repair isn't healed.... I managed to get the 80 year old guy to help me wheel it up the ramp into my truck. I will get it cleaned up and on a stand next week. The edges are fair up over the waist the chipping isn't anything that cleaning them up very lightly with a grinder won't fix. The edges on the heel are very good. I picked up a107# 1-1/2" thick plate for the base plate for the stand for my 300# Fisher and a 61# 1-1/2"x13"x13" plate for my 119# Kohlswa a week ago. I'll sell my Kohlswa now and go with a 1-2 Fisher lineup now. I have been looking for a good smaller Fisher for a year since I passed on a mint 150# Fisher for $500. I was an idiot for passing on that one, but feel I have some redemption now. I have been going round n round about the height for my 300# as I was going to build my stand so it sat 35" high for bladesmithing, but that would have been too tall to use top tools and too tall for striking... So I've been looking for a smaller/second Fisher for a higher standing bladesmithing anvil. Having my 150# Fisher I can mount it 35" and have the 300# closer to 32" for striking, and using top tools!! Look, They're Buddies!!! :D Here's my 300# 1913 Fisher. It has great edges, 95% or so rebound and an old broken horn. Looks like it lost 3-5" some time in the past. In fact, it looks like the repair marks are from cold chisels so it was like;y fixed long ago.... The other thing is I now have a good horn in addition to the stubby horn on the the 300#... I can't wait to get my stands built and get to forging!!!!! :P :P
  21. Well. If it's 5"x25"x20" it's around 709#. Good luck getting it out of your trunk!!! If you do get it home, it will be an awesome anvil!!
  22. Honestly, it's more about mass than the steel type. 4140 would be good. Brian Brazeal makes striking anvils out of mild mostly(entirely?). With mild steel, you can grind any dips n dings smooth and easily weld up any repairs needed. Repairing anvils properly takes a real commitment to educating yourself. My opinion is if you need to ask how to repair an anvil then you're not ready to repair one. Here's Brian's for an idea if you make one.
  23. I believe the most they do is wire wheel them. The questions been asked before and I'd be highly surprised if the repaired them by welding. I bet it's their magnetic personality. Seriously. Ever since I started bladesmithing and blacksmithing I get tons of metal free. Lol.
  24. That anvil looks near mint. It's beautiful. It isn't supposed to ring. It is a cast iron body. Fisher's are known as a "neighbor friendly" anvil. I wouldn't even take a wire wheel to it. Just wipe it down with an oily rag. Then see how it looks. If you want an anvil that rings I'll trade you for a #119 Kohlswa. ;-) Congrats!
  25. Wow Mark!! That's a tough one. What I love about blacksmithing is using the old tools. But it's always a veritable quandary when you have a pristine tool. Use it or collect it??? I LOVE that it's in your living room. Do you stare at it and call it my precious? Lol That's one of the few things I like about being single after being married for twenty years. I get to decorate how I want. I have two bookcases full of knife handle wood and blacksmithing collectables. :-) That drill would be stunning in the corner by my TV....