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I Forge Iron

millwright

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Posts posted by millwright

  1. Hey West-coasters!
    I just noticed what appears to be a 300# columbus tool arm and hammer on flea-bay. It is not mine and I do not know the owner but I have an arm and hammer, and I love it. The buy-it-now price seemed like a bargain too. Hope its the anvil someone on here has been waiting for.

    Here is the link:
    Arm & Hammer 300lbs Anvil and Custom Base - eBay (item 130339087683 end time Oct-28-09 18:06:03 PDT)

    J.W. Morris
    Sandyville, WV

  2. Even a drop of sweat falling from your forehead into a mold can result in an eruption of molten Al

    Aluminum explodes with 300 times the power of a similar molten iron explosion I would suggest preheating to drive all the moisture out of your scrap especially if you are using cans. Many aluminum factories around the world have been leveled this way.
    I'v melted it in my forge before, wasn’t hard at all. If you use cans crush them or they will burn, the best way is to get a little pool started with some thicker stuff like a old lawn chair and then add the cans.

    All due respect but this procedure is the exact recipe to cause a molten metal explosion. Cans and the little swig that you cant quite get are so dangerous that the aluminum plant that I work at will fire you on the spot for having an aluminum can on the property.
    Pre heated and dried out cans cause no real danger but adding a can that contained a teaspoon of liquid to already molten metal is would be like lighting a stick of dynamite.

    Please be careful when dealing with molten aluminum.

    John W. Morris
    Area Maintenance Planner
    Alcan Global ATI Ravenswood, WV
    Producers of aluminum coil and plate products for aerospace, transportation, and industry
  3. Sask Mark,
    I have never tried oil coke but I have some experiance with metallurgical coke. While I was working in the steel mill I used it quite a bit for forging (3rd shift gets boring when everything is running well) The coke is a bear to get started and will require constant wind to keep it going. If you have not built your forge yet and you plan on running cokeall the time, build your fire pot twice as deepas a normal coal forge, it really helped me. With a thicker mass of burning coke a little less wind is required to keep it going. Heck when I worked art the mills coke plant we heated our belt lines in the winter with coke heaters or "salamanders" as they would call them, with no wind on them at all. The salamanders were basicly a large metal trash can made of expanded metal filled to the brim with burning coke. One of my jobs was to go shake them down with a pinch bar and top them off with coke every two hours. If I was going to build another coke forge I would devise some kind of shaker grate to shake the ash out of the coke mass as well. It seems to me like the ash would cling to the coke slowly starving it for oxygen. My coke forge at work would start to choke out after an hour or so and I would beat on the side to knock down the ash. If you beat on the side of a forge full of ashy burning coke be sure to turn your head. (Don't ask me how I know this)

    Good luck, keep us posted on the oil coke experiment!
    John W. Morris

  4. I have a friend that is building a fence around his historic home. He purchased a pile of 3/8" material to build his fence with He pre cut all the peices only to find out that no one carries a 3/8" size final that he likes. He approached me to forge a point or a ball on the ends of all the rods (about 350). I sugested he sell me all the 3/8" material at a loss and buy some 1/2" to build his fence,but he did not like the idea. My question is If I buy a 3/8" ball spring swedge and mount it in the hardy hole of my anvil will it be a 1 heat deal to swedge the ends or will I have to upset the material first then swedge the end? Will I have enough heat to dress each up a little after swedging? Is it a one hit deal or will it require multiple blows? I have never used a spring swedge, but I figured it would be faster than forging each (round) rod to a point. Let me know what you folks think.

    Thank you,
    J.W. Morris

  5. Thank you. The anvil is a beast, it will suck the heat out of anything that touches it immeditaly, not as bad in the summer but in the winter you dont want to try welding on it untill you have worked on it for a couple of hours. I bought a magnetic engine block heater to use this winter, hopefully it will do the trick. I found it in my friends barn, his dad got it out of a steel mill in ohio. He was only using it to straighten his sickle bar on. I had a firearm he wanted and a deal was struck. I am very fortunate to have found it. The far edge is a little chewed up, I think I am going to try working the on the anvil backwards (horn to my right) to compensate. I am still new enough to the hobby that I can switch, and if it dosent work out I will break down and fix the bad edge.

  6. I named my forge the Jewett Forge Co. for Jewett,Oh the town that I used to live in. Now I have moved to Sandyville WV, So I have some decisions to make. I liked Sandy creek forge for the creek that runs through the valley at my new home, but I saw that someone is already using it. I guess I will build another shop first, then worry about a shop name.

  7. Also, for goodnes sake, remember that the grinding wheel takes off hide, meat, and even bone much quicker than it will remove metal.


    Also remember that the sparks from grinding are hot enough to light any bottle rockets you might have stored on the workbench.....please do not ask me why I know this, but a whistling moon traveler sounds just like a catostropic grinding wheel failure.
  8. About 6 months ago I was at work carrying a large pnumatic grease barrel pump (picture long and skinny about the size of a mounted machine gun and about 100#) up three flights of stairs, I stoped at the top of the stairs to take a breather and rested the part that goes in the barrel on a hand rail while the other end was on my shoulder. the darn thing slipped off the handrail and the 2" round end went straight down on the top of my foot. Luckily we wear metatarsal safety boots at work the pump hit with enough force to break the plastic metatarsal gaurd and make my foot black and blue for a week, but I may have lost it without them. I never buy boots without steel toes but I am concidering metatarsals for my shop boots after the grease pump incident. It only takes a second for an accident to cause a lot of pain. I imagine toes come off as easy as fingers do (your fingers will come off really easily don't ask me how I know) and it can be totally avoided with proper boots, cribbing, clamping, and safety procedures

  9. I use hand held radios too but, I use the GMRS radios They have a little better range $45 for two with a charger when I leave for the shop I take one and give the other to my wife. Although I live in town and always seem to have loiterers hanging around!

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