mojavedesertrat

Ah, Thanks for the info, i'll go check it out.

I'm currently thinking about building one of those 2 firebrick forges, where you chisel a half circle into the firebrick, etc., etc...Then i got to thinking, I like to work with RR spikes, I was wondering with the Bernzomatic BZ8250HT trigger-start torch, will one of those type forges be able to heat a RR spike without taking a month and 3 20lb propane tanks?

It looks nice, and I think the dremel finish gives it a bit more character than all these mirror finished knives on here.

Hah, if I find a place like that, i'll be sure to forge them a couple knives and make leather sheaths for the knives

Ah, I got 'cha, I should go look around for metal supply places around here, i've only ever used the one near my house and they've been increasing the prices quite a bit

Yeah, I know, It survived about 6 hours of hardwood charcoal at full blower so far with no damage, but i'm thinking about just making a washtub forge, i'm really starting the like the trough design though. As for the poker, I turned it and bent it 90* down so it acts like a rake, but I need to forge the handle into a thick bar instead because the triangle shape is very awkward.

Ah yeah, but this spring steel I have is a bit strange, its a bit more on the low carbon side instead of being more on the high carbon side, though some time when i go down to pickup some metal i'll be sure to get some mild steel for it. And out here its more like $6 for 4 feet of square mild.

Ah, yes, I had to use an internet archive to view the page since it was missing for some reason. It is very nice to be able to use the dirt for building forges.

Ah, I got ya know. I had my terminology all mixed up. but i'm probably going to end up forging a grate out of pieces of 1/4 inch spring steel, since that's the only heavy duty stuff I have around.

Well, here are my two forges, the pit was the first, the trough is new and needs to be fired up for the first time. It's made out of cinder blocks, scrounged pieces of concrete, and mud. The interesting thing is, the soil on my property acts exactly like refractory cement for some reason. Here is a close-up of the trough forge. And a closeup of the intake for the pit forge And here is my smithy as it stands waiting for me to get charcoal, the trailer holds my anvil and my tools, and it also hauls my motorcycles, go and try that with your wood stumps and tell me just how well it works out

Expanded metal? The chicken wire stuff they sell at like lowes?...if so I have a ton of that stuff laying around

Ah thanks for the info

Well, I finally got some forge time, since I have yet to find all the components for my brake rotor forge so I had to dig a hole in the ground and run an air supply into it. Yes that is my foot in the bottom of the frame, and no I did not forge the handle...it came that way. This is kinda my take on a coal poker, though I don't particularly have a use for it yet, since i'm not burning coal. And here is a proper shot of the end with a tape measure reading correctly. Any comments are welcome, nice...or otherwise

True, very true, i'm most likely going to go the route of the cast iron drain grate instead. Thanks for the enlightenment, i'll see what I can put together

Yes I will be making a a grate out of some steel flat bar I having laying around, though I might just cut it into a few strips and lay it in the bottom of the forge

Well, Got my brake rotor forge mildy operational and I mean bare minimal operational. Its a heavy duty brake rotor and I have a temporary grate in while I search for a cast iron drain grate. The temp. grate is made out of an (unusually) thick steel coffee can. And here is the blower I was wondering about, All I know is it runs regular 115 volts and it starts off very slow then about 30 seconds later it builds up to two very powerful streams of air.

No keep them...this piece of railroad is sturdy...its all i need actually....I couldnt afford the shipping.

Radioshack sells 110v AC to 12v DC inverters for cheap. I have one...its nice...i would put a light dimmer on the motor side of the wires...so you dont need an airgate.

Since when do they not work for welding clamps? I have been arc and mig welding for too many years and i have a whole 4 inch deep drawer devoted to my vise grips, body blocks, and body hammers...i must have about 30 of the things....they work like a charm for me.

Well about the new stock thing...its more of not having to deal with contaminants like bearing grease. Ah...well you do have 30 years of smihting on me..hehe...

I guesstimate mine to be about 30-40 pounds...need to get it on the scale...

Im just making flint strikers out of old files...( i know i should use new stock but i have so many worn out files its not even funny) so its not like i need a 250# anvil...Yes ive managed to find a deal on a 55# pound anvil until i found out it was cast iron....Figures doesn't it?

Thanks but i dont need a real anvil, just doing real light work......I was just wondering what you guys thought about it...

Has anyone used a piece of railroad track as an anvil? I cant seem to get a decent anvil here without getting screwed over...but i do i have a 1 an half foot section of railroad track...

Sir, What you have there is a brake drum. Not a hub...Or a rotor for that matter. That was for your rear brakes...But a nice forge by any means...I would run a bead of weld from the base of it to a two foot square of sheet steel, 1/4" will work.