ThomasPowers

May want to put some crisscross bracing on the sides so the legs don't stress their cast iron holders if you hit something moving it.   Building them in as hammer and tong racks is usually a good way to go about it.

Stands usually have less flex to them if you orient the boards vertically; they can then be glued or bolted together too.

google claydon knot or clayton knot.

Impressive and a lovely step by step progression.  Thanks.

Draw knife and farrier's rasp for working wood.

I'd be driving a more recent truck if she owned 3 camels!  She could spin the winter under coat and crochet some scarves and mufflers.  Now to talk her into milking them...why did my life just flash past my eyes???

My wife owned a froe when I met here in Arkansas; used it for splitting kindling for the woodstove. (I've got more use out of the 17# crosspeen sledge she owned too)

How much does it weigh?  What alloy(s) were used?  Thickness at the thickest point?  Distal taper?  Intended use?

*Details* please!

I've made several by cad'ing out my 165# Peter Wright and printing a set of drawings at various reductions; choosing the one I liked and cutting it out and gluing it to a piece of 1/8" thick plastic and cutting and filing it to the line with a bit of draft.  Then using petrobond oil sand I rammed up one side and pressed the parting powdered piece into the parting powdered surface and rammed the other side, then carved out two sprues and a vent using drill bits----placed so that the Vent mad a stud to hook in a belt hole and the two sprues were cross drilled after pouring to hold a rod for the belt to loop around.

I cast a handful of these in silver back when it was US$5 an ounce.  I think I may still even have one and the plastic anvil piece for the mold. (this was back in the early 90's...)

English, older pattern, a great place to start!  Just remember to NOT grind on the face.

Where is the opening on the other side to allow long stock to be heated in the middle?