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I Forge Iron

ThomasPowers

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    First anvil

       22

    Well it's been about 7.5 years since NHS was last here; but it's good info.  I use my propane forge in a building; but it's 20'x30' with 10' walls. With 10'x10' roll up doors on opposite sides.    For an 8x10 you will need good ventilation as the rate of forge's exhaust with the CO will fill that small a structure pretty fast and re-running exhaust through the burner(s) again will really spike CO production.  A CO meter mounted at head level would be a good investment.

    The gables of my smithy are open; but I would like to enclose them as I add tools that are not as weatherproof as an anvil; so I am looking to put in 4'sq "barn fans" in the gable peaks.

  1.  Looks like a Roman multitool, age: Roman.  You may want to compare it with other roman multitools; I know the Deutsches Klingen Museum in Solingen has several on display and may have more in their collection as they are close to the Limes.  Since you don't list your location I'm sure international travel is a common thing for you---hard to suggest somewhere local for you to visit not knowing where you are at!

  2. Of course you realize that heating up more than you can work hot in one go degrades the rest of the steel with decarburization, grain growth and scale losses---why they were able historically to do swords in forges with a hot spot of about 6" long.  Only time a sword blade needs to all be hot is during heat treat.  Building your forge for that is like buying a dump truck as your daily driver because a couple of times a year you buy a load of gravel...

    IIRC a T burner will heat about 350 Cubic inches so 2 would do a 600 cu inch forge with a bit of power left over.

  3. It's a Trenton, (TREXTON is a known stamping variation) worth depends on LOCATION, CONDITION STYLE, MODEL. Posting pictures of it will allow us to determine condition---but you still need to do the ball bearing and ring tests.  Telling us any stamping on the front foot and on the side should give the weight---in pounds not CWT!

  4. Are you using an electric blower?   Charcoal profits greatly from using a hand powered air source. If you are using an electric blower make sure it shuts off automatically whenever you remove the work piece---a foot switch requiring constant pressure to be on is a good way. (I picked up an old sewing machine foot pedal recently to use for one...)

  5. I'm pretty sure the makers of those twists could have easily and cheaply made the tooling to make the indentations. Just a piece of H-13 square stock could make the triangles and round stock for the semi circles.  It's the visualization  that creates the designs from simple tooling and I'm afraid that's not for sale.

    May I suggest you take some modelling clay and some simple forms and see what designs you can work out before you get to the hot metal.

  6. It's beautifully done; but if your goal is to get smithing it's way more than was necessary and linked more to reproducing an old look.  An analogy would be: building your own car from scrap parts---you don't need to build  a Packard with an inline 12 cylinder engine to get a working car. (It would be impressive I admit!)

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