Borntoolate

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Posts posted by Borntoolate


  1. They work fine. I kinda like them... in a way.
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    In case it was too hard to see what I was trying to show is that the reigns and the business end are on the same side of the boss. This confused me a lot when I first assembled them. They work but they are wonky. They work kinda like chopsticks.


  2. I beleive somewhere in this post there was a caution about making a bottle opener that can break off the top of the bottle.   I took note of that and had the chance to do "some testing" this last weekend.  Actually it was a bit too much testing but nevermind.   I had a lot of bottle openers that needed testing u see.   A safety thing really.   One must make certain sacrifices.  Anyway.....

     

    I was able to do just what I had been cautioned against.   To expand on the caution, that I have now proven to myself to be quite possible, if not potentially likely with our hand made items...   

     

    The question becomes what is the design flaw that makes this likely and how can we avoid it?   

     

    I think the answer is that if the distance between the small smashed indentation on the handle and the far end of the opener (the inside dimension) is too great then you risk having a bottle opener instead of just a bottle cap remover.   Hope that makes sense.    Put another way if the inside dimension of the opener end in the axial direction of the handle is to great.    

     

    Anyone have any guidelines or dos and don'ts in order to avoid this?    Does my theory sound correct or do I need to be corrected or refined?

     

    Anyone have a max min dimension they shoot for?


  3. No mantra really unless I am with someone else.   Then I gotta watch the heat real close otherwise you burn something.   And this is most likely to occur and therefore be much more annoying as you get closer to the end of a project.   So I may get to a point where I say I need to focus on the fire more to avoid this.   The only other thing is that occasionally I get annoyed at how things are going... or not going.     Things not quite working the way I had planned or thought or evolved to...    When I start to get irritated about that it is usually a good time to quit and come back to it.    I guess the only mantra that is constant is don't hurt yourself.  Life is too long to go through it with any sort of major or even minor injury just because you didn't think ahead.


  4. I'm lucky. No-one knows I'm forging except me and the cows. And they don't mind a bit.

    Yeah and I looked up last year while I was making noise forging and there was a deer about 60 yards away munching on greenery.    he didn't seem to mind either until I stopped what I was doing and called my wife out to look.    Then I think he sensed (after a couple of minutes) that the normal order of things had been disrupted and maybe it was time to vamoose.    


  5. my anvil does not ring too much thank goodness.   But I have also done whatever I can to stop it.   I really do not care for a lot of ringing.   A nice ring might mean a good anvil or music to someones ears but for me it is just...   A high pitched hearing damage creating RING!   I have some magnets and a chain wrapped around it that really helps.  If my anvil really rang alot I would complain to me!    So I think the ringing part can be dealt with.   Grinding sounds like normal home activities unless it is excessive.   Everyone should be able to do some grinding at home.


  6. This might be a bit off topic but I have an OLD Kitchenaide dishwasher.   When we bought the house 15 years ago it was old.   Kind of an off yellow color.  It was also a just a little rusty on the front face.    When we replaced the ancient counter in the kitchen we took some matching formica and glued it on the front and it has looked well since then.   But it was and is OLD, in dishwasher years...  

     

    I would guess it is at least 25 years old if not 30+.    

     

    Every so often it develops a problem that usually means something needs to be cleaned.  Well for 15 years I have been cleaning and running it with no problem.  Even though my wife has been saying we need a new one for the last 15 years.  When these little problems arise I start researching a new dishwasher on-line.   When I look I never find anything with raving reviews.   And I talk with folks in that business and they say there is nothing on the market today that works as good as the old stuff and in particular not as good as the old Kitchenaide/Hobarts.     People actually collect these (Kitchenaide)!   My brother in law has had three new dishwashers over the last 15 years...

     

    I for one am leary of new stuff.   Seems advertising and youtube videos have replaced quality and functionality.     When you read the reviews the thing that is most mentioned is the noise and environment.   Apparently everyone wants a silent dishwasher that is environmentally friendly?   Apparently my dishwasher offends the environment?   I don't get it!   I want a dishwasher that is reliable and cleans my dishes!  

     

    I just want something that works.   Seems like that would be the quietest and most environmentally friendly over the long haul (life cycle cost concept?).   Re-work, repairs, having to replace things more often and so forth don't help the environment due to waste.   Broken stuff that is relatively new makes me pissed and that doesn;t help the quiet!!!


  7. This may sound dumb but I am sincere.    

     

    Why do we need a punch lube?    What does it do?   What does it help or prevent?  

     

    I am not asking because I think we don't need it.   I am asking because I don't know why.

     

    I am no expert but I have punched a few holes.  

     

    For some strange reason I collect the pellets that pop out when they don't disappear through the pritchel into the void of heats scale below.  These are just super cool for some strange reason.    :wub:


  8. lots of variables here...   I started this hobby with tennis elbow in my hammer hand.  Some folks get it from this hobby.  Mine went away and has stayed away.

     

    I tell folks to Drop the hammer not swing it.   To me a heavier hammer with well placed methodical blows does the trick.   Let the weight do the work.  You just have to lift it higher and guide it as it falls and add some energy.   But the higher you lift the less continuous energy you add over the length of the fall can make a huge impact.

     

    So what is heavier?   I have a 2lb hammer.   This will wear me out if I am working something significant and not just tweaking a shape.  If tweaking a shape you can possible tap it or bend with your tongs.

     

    I like my 3.5# hammer overall.   I tell folks to aim and mostly drop it acurately.  Take your time to aim.  Lift it above your head.   Add energy to the drop as needed but this is not meant to be excessive.   Let it rebound to help with the upswing.  This means you have to almost release it free at impact (loose grip) then grab it back on the upswing. For me the upswing is should be most of the energy except when I am doing some serious drawing out.  Like say 5/8" tong handles.     Depending on your work this could be very different.   I could also see from the video that small accurate taps could help one creep up on the needed design.  

     

    Let the tool do the work not the body.

     

    But I have a hobby..   not a person in competition....  ok my 2 cents


  9. I made a poker like that.   BTW my forge welding still needs work.   My poker came out great.    Except that weld!   That weld got fixed by Mr Miller the MIG machine because I had no trust in it.

     

    For use as a poker this is a highly stressed weld with a natural "crack like" stress riser right where you don't want a stress riser.

     

    post-16782-0-86718600-1396042217_thumb.j


  10. if you don't want to waste good metal experimenting then get some re-bar.   Old rusty rebar is readily available and provide good hammer practice making it square.   Good practice at reclaiming "junk".   Then you can make something as well.   My experience with it is that it seems very inconsistent.   Sometimes kinda hard to work.  


  11. I wouldn't sweat the details too much.  Just get started.  

     

    REALLY hot is almost white in color.   Look at the coals and if they are white then look at your metal.   When the metal gets white hot like the coals pull it out and you might have a major sparkler (burning the metal).   Not good.   Or maybe just a few sparks here and there.   I hear many folks like it just that HOT.  But once you do it you know you can and you know what it takes.   Now heat things to a little less than that for easier work.

     

    Different materials got to be worked at different heats.  If you can't:

    • control the heat
    • see the heat and colors
    • time the heat by feel
    • see the tiny sparks that come out of the fire just as you hit that point...

     

    ...then it will be hard to hit any color/heat,    So just play around with the metal and your fire control and feel the hammer difference.   Burn something on purpose.   Make some test runs on mild steel at different heats.  

     

    Be careful at a white heat.    Sparks will fly off your hammer everywhere.   WEAR your safety glasses always! 




  12. Furthermore I don't see anything offensive about born too late's post either.

    was an mis type, which has been corrected

    What? I didn't see anyone offended?


    I did like the video that I have seen before. I have tended to start the taper at the far end and at the tip. The video clearly shows a better place to start and work towards the tip. This, as I see it again, really makes a lot of sense.

  13. prolly 2-5 heats depending on how long I've been away from the forge. That can be days or weeks.  Also can depend on how "mature" my fire is when I start.   Sometimes if my fire is not real hot and full "mature" I'll take a few whacks as things heat up better to attempt to get in the swing.    No rush just calibrating and warming up...  probably just at the tip/taper...   

     

    I find it takes me a little time to get my half hammer blows at the far end accurate and precise after a week or two away from the the forge.   I don't like to get in a hurry on this a risk damaging the anvil like I see so often..  (large chunks broken off the far side).   I also am not all that fast and I don't really care too much about that.   For me Blacksmithing is more about learning and meditation/escape from the rigors of modern life.

     

    When I am warmed up and my fire is mature and I heat it quite well and I am in the groove I likely would not get it to satisfaction in one heat.    BTW this would be by hand.  No power hammer.   Using a hammer that Brian and I made.   Thanks Brian!   :rolleyes:   I love my 3.5# +/- hammer!!!


  14. My daughter loves this set I made her. Constant tapping away at the moment



    Or, how about 12 little forged picture frames, or 12 openinings in one large picture frame. Then a photo of the little'un can be added each month until they reach 1. Amazing how quick they grow so always nice to have a set of photos throughout that first year.

    Good Ideas curly..   Mobile good idea too!


  15. So this is mine but sorta off blacksmithing topic...    However I think it catches a theme here.

     

    Had some friends over.   Showing the shop.   Forge running.  One lady wanted to weld something.   I have a MIG and figured she could point and shoot just fine.   It didn't weld well.   I figured it was bad metal.   It was some scrap junk stuff...   Later I realized I HAD NOT TURNED ON THE GAS!    Otherwise she could have point and shot just fine.

     

    So I think a common theme above is that just when we want to show people what we do and how cool it really is...  something goes wrong to make it less cool.  

     

    My learning then is that when we want to show people how cool it is we need to be extra careful and do what we know how to do.  Be extra thoughtful both for safety and technigue.   Show how professional we are.   Slow if need be and methodical...


  16. BTL you are going the hard way... I've done that too!  Try slitting and then opening the slit to make the hole!  Also, once you can work on the horn it's easier to draw out the thicker areas than to try to get an even stretch!  If the hole gets a bit overlarge you can always flatten the outside edge as much as needed!

     Yeah, I know.    :o(   I just have not made be an appropriate size slitting tool.   I need to do that!   I guess I could use some of my store bought chisels...


  17. All I can say is WOW!    15 THOUSAND posts!!!   That is a lot!!!.   And with all the support I am reading perhaps I'll need to seek out more of those.  

     

    I honestly don't always catch or mentally record the names of many of the posters here.   I mostly just read/look at the info and digest.   That may sound a little impersonal but on the other hand I don't much care who I learn from.    

     

    On the other hand I have met Brian several times and when I see his posts I pay some special attention.   Mostly I guess because I know him personally.   Most of you other folks I don't know personally.   Maybe I need to get out more.    I have that pesky day job goin!   This is still more of a hobby for me AND a chance to learn.   Part of me just like learning new stuff.

     

    Finally.   There are very few people in this world I would like to shut up.   And even those I might like to silence I guess I feel that the whole freedom of speech thing supercedes any personal thoughts I have on that.

     

    So carry on please.    16000++++???     20,000?   50,000?


  18. I like the Coal forge.   The gas forge I built is big and a bit loud.   I like to be able to put the heat where I want with coal.   If I want to heat a large area gas is great.   Gas is also great for putting a larger item in and not having to turn the blower or worry to much about burning it up.    Un coiling coil springs get done in gas.  I straightened some leaf springs in gas.   Generally I like the coal. 


  19. Yup.   300 series stainless steel is what most people are looking for when they say "Stainless steel".  Meaning it is very rust resistant.   It is generally not magnetic or only a little bit magnetic.   You can use a magnet as a helper to identify (sort of).  There are other non-magnetic metals.   Compare the magnetic attraction strength to a known carbon steel.   If you have a weak magnet then you will have a weak attraction, thus side by side comparison...    If it is a LOT less magnetic then maybe it is 300 series stainless.   For most of us that means 304/316 stainless.   BUt there are many 300 series variations.  

     

    In the junkyard, if it is shiny and looks like 300 series stainless it may very well not be.   Likely galvanized or other coating.   Rust resistant yes but only as far as the very thin coating lasts.   Which does not survive forging.   And breathing zinc (galvanizing) vapors is not good for you.    Stainless also has a 400 series which is much less rust resistant and more magetic.   In other words when we say "stainless Steel" we are technically referring to a broad range of metals that may or may not mean what we think.

     

    Additionally, when you forge a 300 series stainless piece there are some issues to deal with.   IF you forge a fine piece of non rustable 300 series stainless steel with a carbon steel hammer on a carbon steel anvil and grind or wire brush it with a carbon steel brush/grinder you will impart rustable carbon steel to the piece you are forging.   So now the surface will show rust.  If you wire brush a 300 series piece of stainless steel with a stainless steel brush that you have used on rustable carbon steel then you will impart some amount of rustable carbon steel to your stainless piece.   Ditto with a grinding wheel.

     

    So I am not a Stainless expert by any means.   There is some need for pickling which I have never done but there is something important there I think,  

     

    Just know that if you forge a fine piece of stainless steel don't expect it to stay all pretty and rust resistant without some thought in how you handle it.


  20. For other searches try using a different language.

     

    Try Smide 

     

    Schmiede, schmieder, schmieden... - German (I think I got those right...)

    Forgeron - French

    Etc...

     

    Just go to google translate and translate blacksmith or forging or whatever to a different language.   I have not tried them all above but this seems to open a few more doors.

     

    Then post the real good ones here!