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I Forge Iron

Laoich23

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Everything posted by Laoich23

  1. 2 hours at 1600 F, Oil quench, 2 hours at 650 F... should have put it at 50 RC. File won't bite, and I've been using it to flare pipe ends for new burners, not a scratch or dent at all, I am quite happy.
  2. It's made from 1340, Turned on a lathe, to be heat treated. On the matter of selling any, I made it in my spare time during school from scrap. I don't think I could afford the steel, let alone ask a decent price for it. Also, won't have spare time on the lathes till the end of next semester.
  3. 3/4 to 2 1/2 inch diameter, 6 1/2 inch tall, 7/8 inch shank
  4. Saw the first anvil in the area after 1 1/2 years of looking. Looks to be in good shape, rings nice. It's in an antique shop. Is $325 too much? It's a vulcan
  5. It is possible, That sheet is very thin though. The pipe is small, it would be like using a cold chisel, where speed makes up for the weight of the tool. If it wasn't on a 'butcher's block' it wouldn't work. I worked at Albion Swords, we've cut through the same with European style swords.
  6. Paying $1000 for it with extra jaws, steady rests, and a trunk load of other extras. Ran smooth. I am excited.
  7. Your only 3 1/2 hours away from West Virginia, I used to live in Bluefield, right at the bottom of the state, I got mine from a gas station/shop a few blocks from home for $8/80lbs, If you have a truck, might be an option.
  8. When I worked at Albion, we just used aluminum blocks in our bending jig. The simplest being three 1/2" aluminum rods with a wire through them to make a 'T' (so it wouldn't fall through the vise jaws) and crank on the vise after it was up to temp. If your still afraid of goofing up the blade, cover the aluminum with leather, it'll do fine at that temperature.
  9. First one I've ever seen, well technically second, about 30 feet ahead of this one I found one that was rusted past fixing. This one cost me $35, works fine. I got the rusted one too... The leg has been repaired with a section of pipe though. A little unsightly.
  10. Glad this has struck up so much conversation. I start heading towards my mechanical engineering degree this summer, so this is rather intriguing. Anyways, If anyone cares, I added the feet and it know weighs in a 112.2 lbs.
  11. Thanks, I was lucky enough to find two matching pipe ends the same diameter as my forge. It's a bit overkill in some situations, but has proved itself as a foundry. That's copper spilled on the stones. <_<
  12. Thanks Eric! I think I might have talked my roommate into shaping the horn... hehehe But that is what I had in mind.
  13. Yes, feet are in order. As for the hardy hole, there's already the outline 50% drilled, which you can't see in the photo, but I'm planning on knocking it out once all the holes are drilled.
  14. Finally done cutting and welding. Horn shaping will be done when I get really bored, along with drilling the rest of the hardy hole. According to dimensions, it should weigh in around 125lb.
  15. Going to forge a valve wheel. Like one you would see on a big pipe. About 12" diameter with one cross piece. Just curious if anyone has a method other than simply mig welding that cross piece in the ring. OR if anyone has ever seen older material on the task?
  16. Yeah, changed my mind, just gonna keep it simple, and stack them and keep the face 3X14
  17. Got a hold of two fork lift forks, apparently they were made from cutting one larger single fork into two, for a smaller lift. So now, I plan on using the faces of the upper back part as the anvil face, the rest for the body. My question is what is anyone's thought on welding these two parts back together so that there would be a 6"x14" face rather than 3"x14" Would the weld, if I use wire for high carbon, causes trouble later on? Could it survive being heat treated? Also, I can cast non-ferrous metals, I wast thinking of filing the middle with copper or bronze for extra mass, and because I can. What do ya'll think, would it help deaden the ring?
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