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I Forge Iron

caotropheus

2023 Donor
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Everything posted by caotropheus

  1. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> In this topic, post #14, you can see my press' table/stand. It came with the press and it was made in angle iron. I had to reinforce it with some diagonal flat stock. If I would plan from the beginning a table for the press, I think I would use slant legs in a design similar to those shown by HIGHSIDER and trinculo. "U" channel 100 mm could be a nice choice of steel to build the table frame.
  2. Thomas, I think I am going to replace the weights. Their diametre is too big and I still have some space to pile weights in the bar, so, I am going to drop the 7.5 kg weights and I am going to use 3 units of 2.5 kg. Less danger to our heads...
  3. I had a similar idea. Actually I made an anvil out of steel I found at the scrap yard '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> but it is big and bolted to the ground. And I want to make one more, smaller, portable with square face, like a stake anvil. Something like this From top to bottom, 1 - a bit of leaf sping 30 mm thick (you can notice it is cracked), 2 - shaft from some gear box, 750 mm long 65 mm diametre, 3 - shaft from other gear box, 200 mm long, 110 mm diameter at the thickest 80 mm at the thinnest, 4 - mild steel towing pin, 80 mm diameter 200 mm long. I have one other bit of steel to make the "square" horn face and round stock for the bottom peg (not pictured). I am thinking on making full penetration welds with 7018 and reinforce everything with gussets just to be on the safe side. I estimate final weight of the project will be between 50 kg and 60 kg. It will be a long term project not to build in a single go, but once in a while. The main idea is to weld little bits at a time to keep original temper of the different components. I will grind the round horn. Hope I will manage to acomplish this project
  4. I have a similar question to PaulKrzysz. I have plans on making a stake anvil and I was thinking on using a bit of 5160 (30 mm thick) for the top flat bit. Basically I was thinking on making full penatration welding, just like PaulKrzysz, but I have the avantage of welding the flat bit of steel on horizontal round stock (to make both round and square horns and the round stock will be welded on the shaft). So my question is, if I am careful enough to keep the top plate cool enough, at oxidation colour peacock, can I avoid heat treating the anvil's face after I finish it?
  5. Dave Could you please show us a picture of the tools you used in the flypress to forge weld the billet? Thanks.
  6. Finally, I restored the press and re-inforced the stand. What you see is the result of hours opening seized bolts and nuts. Electrolysis also worked for several days. The tool hole in the ram is 40 mm diameter. I used weights form weight lifting as counter weights. In the pictures you can see in each edge of the flywheel bar 7.5 kg counter weights. Today I acquired 5kg more for each edge. I hope 12.5 kg for each edge will be enough.
  7. One more question: What is the screw diameter and how many leads is the thread? thanks I am making all these questions because I received a flypress without counter weigths, I restored it, but I still need to improvise the weights.
  8. Nice press you have there. How long is the flywheel bar and how heavy are the counter weights? Thanks
  9. I am not the right person to recommend methods for anvil repair. You gentleman are the experienced blacksmiths and I simply hit metal with a hammer. I am just a backyard curious guy that likes to make things with steel. I can leave here two ideas and from here you can develop more sophisticated anvil repair processes, first how I made my anvil horn by welding and sanding material
  10. I also have the same problem of small space for my metal working shop and now I have to cut about half a metre from my working bench to accommodate the flypress. For the price you describe I would take the two presses. Deal with the lack of space later on I am sure you will find use for both presses. What is better than a flypress? At least two... The same principal applies to other tools for the shop...
  11. norrin_radd Just go to the scrap yard, get the biggest bearing you can get, cut it with a grinder, extract the steel balls and make the test. There are lots of youtube videos that show ball bearing rebound tests on anvils.
  12. Can it be something like this? http://www.dolex.fr/outillages-divers/enclumes/enclume-acier/
  13. Nice treadle hammer. I may well copy your design. I have a round shaft of some vehicle 50 kg that I may use as the hammer and I have a bit of hydraulic breaker chisel (50 kg) that I may use as the anvil. Is there a possibility that you can post us a video showing details of the construction of this tool and how does it work hot steel? thanks
  14. This is my anvil You can see details in this thread '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>
  15. Thank you very much gentleman for your kind words. @BIGGUNDOCTOR I only have basic tools like a driller, a grinder, a welder...no tools to make threads in rod, so I welded...
  16. I just posted the thread on my homemade anvil. At minute 3 of the video you can see how I forged the horn. You can do the same with a couple of friends. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> This is something you can do as well. You can get a bit of thick stock (50 mm or so) and drill one or several pritchel holes (different dimmensions) and you can drift a hardy hole, like in these videos
  17. Greetings Gentleman This is the way I made my homemade/diy cheapo anvil. All materials come from the scrap yard. The idea was, "if I need some type of support to keep the anvil upright, why not attach some sort of horn to the support?" I hope the hardy hole area is sturdy enough to be used for the forthcoming years. The hardy hole plate and the tip of the horn were hardened and tempered. Never seen material moving so fast under the hammer as with this anvil. I am terrible sorry for the broken English and the lousy video editing skills :unsure: Do you gentleman think I have enough mass under the hammer? :D
  18. ASO - Anvil shaped object, like the blue colour ASO, in front/below the small blue anvil
  19. anvilfreak, you even have ASO's in your anvil collection, cool!
  20. I made this using an Hydraulic breaker chisel as a starting point similar idea from other member '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>
  21. I do not have much experience working with fly presses, I have two presses, one little one, probably 2 ton and one that I am restoring that is close to 10 ton. The answer is crystal clear, the bigger the fly press, the best but I think the "C" frame 6 ton press is the most multivalent.
  22. Thank you for your comments gentleman. The stand that was attached to the press is a bit flimsy and it was a bit mangled... :unsure: but it is well built. So, I am going to reinforce it to use it. Since yesterday I had to improvise a forge in the ground to heat treat the anvil that I just built, I laid the bent portions of the stand on the fire and straightened them. I started taking apart the press and so far, so good...even though there is a bit of rust, bolts come out very easily.
  23. Thank you very much gentleman Jim, I also would like to see your press' tooling. Can I kindly ask you if you can open a new thread and post some pictures of this flypress tooling (or even perhaps some videos of your press in action)? Thanks
  24. Greetings gentleman I am the proud owner of this press Sorry for the lousy quality of the pictures. These are the first pictures after unloading the press and it was almost night... After all, I am an excited kid with a new toy! I got this press FOR FREE after one year negotiations with a friend. The press was outdoors neglected for several years and is lacking the counterweights. In return I am going to give him my much smaller press )%20so,%20for%20lack%20of%20space,%20tools%20that%20are%20not%20used%20are%20kept%20outdoors%20covered%20by%20water%20proof%20material.%20This%20flypress%20was%20just%20exposed%20to%20the%20elements.'> %20that%20he%20will%20store/use%20inside%20his%20shop.%20This%20friend%20has%20several%20tools%20of%20the%20same%20type%20%28power%20hammers,%20drill%20presses,%20punch%20presses,%20lathes%20...%29%20so,%20for%20lack%20of%20space,%20tools%20that%20are%20not%20used%20are%20kept%20outdoors%20covered%20by%20water%20proof%20material.%20This%20flypress%20was%20just%20exposed%20to%20the%20elements.'>that he will store/use inside his shop. This friend has several tools of the same type (power hammers, drill presses, punch presses, lathes ...) so, for lack of space, tools that are not used are kept outdoors covered by water proof material. This flypress was just exposed to the elements. I do not know how heavy it is, probably 300 Kg. I laid the press on the ground, to remove the table, disassemble the components and de-rust the all thing...the wire wheel and electrolysis are going to work hard. I am not going to make electrolysis to the all press because it is too big and heavy to handle using my humble domestic resources. As you have noticed all the bolts and nuts are very rusty and seized, so my first question is how am I going to loose those bolts stuck in the press' body/ram? I leave you here some dimensions of the press, total height, about 1 metre, the screw is 3 lead and it is 71 mm diameter. The "fly wheel" bar is 1.5 metres long and weighs 25 kg. So what do you gentleman think how heavy should be each counterweight? There were no marks for the manufactures but you may well see that there is no check nut or "T" slots at the base to secure tools. In time I will post more pictures and dimensions of the press. I will try to improvise a scale to try to weight it (I will build a see-saw or something). If you could please give me more information about this type of press, for example how many tons it can reach and some chronology I would be most grateful. Thank you very much for your attention.
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