the iron dwarf

now made a larger and a smaller one and another medium one ready for an event here

or call in my place on saturday, we run courses and are happy to discuss it

courses are 'ONE TO ONE' unless arranged differently

complete beginners

advanced

toolmaking

copper and brass work

a crucible rated for melting steel will cost quite a bit and does not last long also make sure you are prepared for a failure to happen at any moment or it can really spoil your day

suitable PPE will probably cost as much as your induction heater and it is not a good idea for the inexperienced to do this

do not rely on youtube vids as many on there are dumb and deadly

not long, it needs to be welded over the entire area, tack a rod about 3/8" diameter down the center of the face, place your new top plate on top and then weld first one side then the other making sure there are no slag pockets and keep going until you reach the sides

2 hours ago, Daswulf said:

Aluminum?

yup

will probably just try to rehome it so someone else can make something out of it

a piston I am told it is from a train engine

diameter278mm 10 15/16"

height 380mm 14 15/16"

weight 35 kg, about 80 lbs

yes it was good, I found a stack of these pieces in 3 sizes, weld in a lasercut part I have and some 20mm square and its ready for use, the radius on the top is how I found it

if you had any experience of welding WI ( I have welded WI in castles and cathedrals ) then you would know that 309 stainless would be a very bad choice for the top of an anvil on WI

you tube is not a place to learn from, nothing there is peer reviewed and anyone can post anything

welding on it will seriously affect the hardness of the area around the weld

are you an experienced welder of wrought iron?

it is very different to mild steel and an anvil is not just a chunk of metal, the top plate is hardened and needs to be welded over the entire area

you need to test the top plate that remains to see if more is delaminating and for hardness

are you an expert at anvil restoration?

it is very easy to make a usable anvil with some damage into something only good as a garden ornament

doing it right will take a lot of time and effort and money

use it as is will be your best option

looks like the weight when made was 169 lbs

sold today for 20 uk pounds, now have to make more

thank you for posting this

I agree it may not look good but it is more important that it works

still waiting for parts to be made, should be some progress this week, laser cutter has been on holiday and work piled up.

I plan on making it so it can fit in 4 places on my forges and with maybe  a choice of rotation but first must get the prototype drive and fan working

fan and handle removable from shafts

sprockets will all be welded on

4 sprockets, 2 chains, 3 shafts to give 36 to 1 for first prototype

fan 200mm 4 blade

handle unknown length at the moment

was going to do fan case close to blades as I need a reasonably high pressure

handle will have 2 bearings, both clutch type so it only goes one way

brass bearings on all shafts

2 small oil drip holes above chains, add a few drops whilst turning each day, surplus will drip out

maybe add a flywheel if needed later

trying to make this compact and at a reasonable cost

I would have gone to a car boot sale or two this morning but it is the end of the season and heavy rain here, next weekend I am at an indoor historic market trading and will also be visiting another event early sunday morning on the way to look for some bargains to resell at the market

welcome Ian

im from northants, a few miles south east of you if you ever find yourself in my area call in for a chat

I make forges and tools and at my place we also teach

learn basic blacksmithing first before you go on to blades

that looks like it is in quite good condition, wire brush off the loose rust and then use it, after a week it will shine.

DONT GRIND OR WELD ON IT

see if there are other markings on it or at least measure it and someone can tell you more about it

they may not be springs ( but will probably be spring steel.

I often see such things for conveying powders and other stuff inside tubes driven slowly by a motor, also larger ones on CNC mills and lathes for removing swarf

1 hour ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

I always use pure tungsten for aluminum and magnesium

dont you mean Argon?

the tungstens have something else in all of them as far as I can see and the red tip ones are thorium ( look that up, it is never good to grind thoriated tungstens ) yes thorium is radioactive, most here use ceriated (SP) instead

so who at SCABA job is it to list them here?

if no one posts them here they are not here

why dont YOU post events here and news then new members from your area may find you and your events

the admins and mods here cannot post on behalf of every club or group in over 150 countries but do make space for them to post here and if you dont use it that is not IFI's fault

but have the dropped an ACME anvil from a hot air balloon onto a road runner?

try looking for a reel of ali mig wire.

printed, laminated and put on the inside of the door in my shop

thank you

here is a new tool to fit a hardie hole, one of my tool holders or just clamp it in a vice

inside it is about 50mm ( 2" aprox )

outside it is about 60mm ( 2 3/8" aprox )

shank is 20mm square but can be sleeved to fit

will have a few at wood green in a couple of weeks and later at TORM

here is my Zomax, as you can see it has a long support for the handle shaft and the other parts are the same as well.

model 25, the same as the whitlox one and IIRC it was about $100 from whitlox in the US when I looked

there are plenty of places you can buy from, last sunday I was at a vintage and 4 x 4 event and got a large diagonal pein hammer for £10, a plasma cutter for £40, a WW i portable military forge and lots more.

I also sell new spring and tool steels, rasps, forges.

20th and 21st of this month I am at huntingdon at a historical market with several other smiths