joshua.M

Kubiack, Thanks for your suggestion, I am using as much flux as will melt on it from bright orange heat, when i said that heat it slowly, i meant the heat, pause, heat pause heat method. I take 2 welding passes after twisting it tighter at a welding heat, more if needed. 

I think it has more to do with the center material, it is very shiny and springy, if bent cold it snaps back to shape, if the outer layers are bent cold, they spring back but stay slightly bent. 

My best guesses are: galvanized, stainless steel or a strange alloy. 

Anyone know of some tests I can do to narrow the options of what it could be?

My grandfather gave me a bunch of 18" long sections of 1 1/4" crane cable to use in making cable damascus, They were a christmas gift last year that have sat in the corner of my shop because I was having a hard time welding them (whole outside welded together, but core strand wouldn't).

I use the following steps:

- Soak in vinegar for 2 days to strip as much gunk off as possible

- Spray with brake cleaner and wipe down (box fan blowing away any fumes, and my shop is very open)

- Let dry for one day (in sun)

- Heat to orange in gas forge to burn off anything else (while I prep coal forge to weld)

- Flux on "end grain" of cable so flux flows in

- Transfer to coal forge and heat first 2" to welding slowly to ensure even heat

- Weld end together

- Repeat process for other side

- Heat un welded center to orange, twist open (locked in vise) wire brush and flux, close tight

- Heat center evenly to welding heat, twist tighter in vise to weld, then 2 more welding passes on anvil

Here is the problem. Center would not weld, so I went through the cleaning process and took a piece of the cable apart. The center seems to be galvanized! I didn't even think to check first... stupid me.

So here is the question, because it is a gift I don't' want to trash it, but I know the galvy is bad, so does anyone have an idea of how I can take out the center core without the other wires collapsing (thats what happened when I drove it out) I could disassemble the cable and weld each rope separately and then weld all those together, but that is less than time and cost efficient. 

Thanks for any answers

If you need more detail please ask

Josh

Use it.

I don't know about that.  The main thin to keep in mind is work it hot often times gas forges fall short in the heat department.  If it starts to crack stop and go back into the fire and weld the crack back together at the beginning of your heat.  Also wide flat bars don't like to be forged on edge heavily they can cup and split.  Once you get the feel for it you will really like wrought iron.  I love the way wrought iron looks it has a more organic texture and responds better to hand forging.  

I LOVE good wrought, got the first good stuff i've used, 4' long 5/8" bolts, I want more :P

we have a huge pile of topsoil/fertilizer in one of our bottom hay fields, it is a byproduct of the horses. It is the only field with access onto our property. I was out hunting groundhogs that have taken up residence in that field and noticed some tire tracks through the deep grass, followed them up to the topsoil pile and there was at least 2 yards gone. I set up a trail cam and and caught him coming in twice but no good shots, so i set up in the treeline with my .22 and waited, he drove in, red ATV and small dump trailer and shovel, I let him get out into the field, walk out of the treeline where he could see me, he stopped the ATV, turned around and left, never came back....

The way I read what Timothy said was, instead of flipping 90 degrees left to right, you flip 90 degrees and hit all four sides.

He moves them outside to use them.  

I don't "collect" them for viewing I use them. I have my forge outside so that's where they get stored. You would "collect" them too if you paid what I did for them.

One of them is way to beat up to be a user and is only 74 lbs. The 98lb Trenton with a 99% mint face is useless with only about 25% rebound. The 104 pound PW (the one with the hardy tool in it) has a really beat up face. The other two I have are a 70 pound Canadian blower and forge that's missing the heal and a 15lb unknown. So that really only leaves me with one good anvil. The beat up Peter write gets used the most tho because its the only one I have a hardy tool for.

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to offend, was making a joke, I know you use them!

This isn't my whole collection but this is what I have a picture of. The only one that isn't mine is the cast steel Columbian on the right closest to the camera.

"collection" and anvils sitting on the floor in a corner is not a nice combination!

I have multiple anvils at all different heights, from 4" above my knuckles (60 lb post-anvil for small work) to more than 6" below (400 lb Peter Wright for 90% of my work) I am 6'6" but i like my anvil alot lower than normal, and I now have the steel to make a striking anvil that will be mounted around 22"

My anvil is 29" high...

 

Then again... i am only 5'5" ;)

 

...

 

The rule of thumb I have found best for general hand forging 1" under with hand hammer is the anvil should be no higher than the height at which you can hold a work piece between your legs while retaining the octave of your voice.... (lol) and not low enough that you have to strain to bend down...

 

for striking... for an adult striker around 5'8" to 6'6", it is good to have the anvil at 24" or lower... any higher and you will never get the full potential of a swing! I still stand on a 4" box when I strike on my 24" striking anvil. Me personally, I like striking on an anvil that comes up to my knee caps.... shame that most directors I work with are not supple enough to bend that low!!! :P

 However, the best advice i can give...

 

Is do what gives the best between, being comfortable and forging as efficiently as possible! 

 

Alec

I guess i'm holding the stock while i'm on my knees for IYS2013

i like making large bottle openers, I tell people that they are so that when you are a few deep, you can still get the leverage you need

MASKING TAPE! sorry, had to yell it so i wouldn't forget it.

Looks like what we use round here called by a vet, for cutting the strings to the nutts 

 

Sam

De-Masculator is what we call it around here, the name even hurts

wow... i thought the coal i was getting now was a good price, $40 for 70lbs. im moving to the states!

Thanks! The table top is a nice size (24" x 24" x .25"). it was a vibration fixture I built a couple of years ago at work. When the testing was done they let me take it home. Its been sitting in the corner collecting dust. So I cut the really short legs off and one of the four walls, built the frame under it and mounted my vise.

The table is pretty heavy and having a large footprint helps with bending. But, "hard" bending is not happening. I was thinking about anchoring down or just hanging a ton of weight on it, but that silicone trick might just work!

Any other ideas and or suggestions on getting this other vise freed up?

IMO I would drill holes in the top of the plate where the legs are and filling them with sand and oil, it will dampen sound and add a suprizing amount of weight, then you can thread the holes and plug them with bolts and top it off as the sand compresses over time.

Josh

I was awarded the OABA scholarship this year (first year it was started) to go join the International Young Smiths at Brian Brazeal's place in Brandon Mississippi. There will be a large portion of my time there swinging a sledge so i want some practice before I leave (22 days 10 hours 11 minutes and 43 seconds as i write this). I worked striking all day today with Lloyd Johnston at Lang Pioneer Village, and would like some more practice, so if anyone has a job they want done, or wants to come help me with a job, we can for sure work something out.

Thanks

Josh

And trust me once you have the skill you will have little interest in doing this.

NOOOOO! forging hammers and top tools is my favourite task! (when I have a striker)

Yes! I'm starting to get too much! But I just can't pass up an amazing deal for an anvil, even just to save it from a collector and resell it to someone who will use it, but I'm up to 5 anvils now (just sold 2 0.o). I am now starting to look for a nice big post vice, 6"+ and then a swage block

Josh

Just picked up this big momma, it's a 400lb peter wright, in good shape. More than good enough for what i payed for it!

Josh

Please don't call the cops, because this was almost highway robbery, 

400lb Peter Wright anvil

Canadian forge co. blower #1; no stand, 18" fan housing

Canadian forge co blower #2; on stand

Portable refractory lined forge

5 pair champion bolt tongs

7 misc tongs

misc wrought iron, springs, lawn mower blades and steel bars

1 ton coal in bags (mixed bituminous and anthracite)

misc top tools

2 hammers

3 nice new homemade wooden boxes, 5 antique crates/boxes (for mommy)

casting stuff (ingot mould, lead ladle, cast iron melting pot, holds 1.5 gallon)

The seller was asking $1000 for all of it, but i talked down to $800, as a $200 down payment and $50/month until its payed off...

Pictures!?!?! you want pictures!?!?!?! well fine then!

I'm so good I can put a 1" hole in 3/4" bar!

Josh

4lb Brazeal style rounding hammer, made it with Sam Falzone and Brian Brazeal striking (not at the same time!), and myself directing. 

From what I understand the event for the young smiths has now been moved to Tannehill Historical Ironworks

 

Here is a list of the events.

International Young Smiths
Schedule of Events- July 12-27 2013
Hosted by Tannehill Forge School of Blacksmithing
at Vulcan Forge

Open to the Public!
Come for a day or camp out and watch the whole event free.
camping contact: mckeemetalarts@yahoo.com

Friday- July 12
Meet and Greet Event Opener with the International Young Smiths - 5:00 pm

Come meet and talk with Brian Brazeal, Alec Steele and the 2013 International Young Smiths team as well as our hosts, Lee McKee of Vulcan Forge and students.

The IYS team will have the Brian Brazeal Blacksmith shop set up. Come and check out the tools, forges and anvils. Hang out with us in the shop and talk forging with some of the best.
We will have demonstrations too!

Saturday-Wednesday July 13 - 17

Brian Brazeal and Alec Steele will begin a 5 day "tools to make tools" curriculum with the IYS team. The first day they strike for each other for the "forged to finish" rounding hammer and the Brian Brazeal hot cut hardy.

Thursday - Friday July 18-19

IYS techniques class, the team will learn and practice the techniques used to forge the Crane sculpture.

Saturday - Sunday July 20-21

The International Young Smiths team will complete their Crane sculpture!
Please, come watch and support these inspiring blacksmiths who are here to share and promote friendship and forging information with their communities and the World!

Monday- Wednesday July 22-24

the IYS team will be teaching the Crane techniques class to the Tannehill Forge School of Blacksmithing students.

Thursday- Friday July 25-26

Together, Tannehill Forge School of Blacksmithing students and the International Young Smiths will forge a second Crane sculpture to be donated to Tannehill State Park.

Yes! I should have updated this! Please anyone and everyone feel free to come out and meet us!

Josh

I have heard of using silica sand, but never tried it. Play sand is silica sand

Thanks

Josh