JerryCarroll

I posted pictures of my setup once upon a time. To extend the bolt I used a nut that fits and a length of threaded rod cut to size and screwed them together from each side--works fine! I use mine in the hardy hole with a short length of 3/4" pipe--washer welded on the bottom and the upper end cut on the same angle as the taper of the anvil heel bottom. With the threaded rod extending thru the washer and a large wing nut the tool is held just right. I also made several different hold down heads for round and other shapes. They really make a good hold down.

Martial arts and smithing! Good combo. I'm 67 and still practice a mixed arts exercise routine to stay as fit as an old man might be. Tai Chi keeps me limber. Master John Sharkey just finished a few weeks summer training camp here. Check out his sites at the American Karate Association web page. I dropped out of competition in my 50's--my son Jeff was national champ for 4 years in his teens. Staff kata competition is unreal now. The bo's I checked at the camp probably weigh only a pound.

Dan, I know the feeling well. Helplessness is not hopelessness--have faith as we all Pray. Prayer works!

The simplest thing I have found that works well for inside stuff is future floor acrylic finish. It's thin enough to get down in the small places--dries quick and is easy to apply again if you want and you don't lose the forged look. Like all stuff used to finish or coat things you need to clean/degrease/de-scale before applying. Even over a light scaleing it holds up pretty good.

My shop forge air supply is electric. My farm forge has a pump handle on the left and the portable I'm working on has a canady otto hand crank that can be positioned either side. I like the pump handle better than the crank--probably cause that's what I grew up with. One shop I worked (played) in had a bellows over head with a hanging rope that could be used either way.

I used Potassium Permanganate to get the figured maple long rifle stocks I have built to look so nice. A picture of one is in the gallery. Isn't Potassium Permanganate what was called blue ointment long ago?? Used to treat some serious skin ailment?

Looking East or West I see farmland (corn-beans-wheat) with tree borders on the far side for several hundred yards. North & South I have neighbors within hollering distance. The beautiful Kankakee river is a couple hundred yards to the North. Deer and other critters stop by often to harass my chickens and grab an apple. Anybody need some squirrels?? Oak and hickory nuts keep them fed well here.

Born in 1941--got "involved" in smithing/fabricating bout 9 years later-- started metal working (full time employment) 1963. Set up my own smithy bout 25 years ago. I call it a hobby now :)

I forgot to mention that I used to get my wire from Dixie gun works in Tenn.

I don't think this one has been posted: Ignorance (not knowing) can be cured--stupid is permanent!

I have silver wire inlay in the stock of the flintlock I posted in the gallery with a tomahawk I made. Gotta look close I guess. I've been doing this in wood and some metal for many years. I have seen some really intricate work with wire on stocks-knife handles & even powder horns, especially at the Friendship, IN. muzzle loading shoots. Your post looks like you have a good start--Nice!!

RR spikes need to be upset an inch or more on the pointy end to have enough metal for a decent blade. Take a look at mine in the gallery.

I found using the o/a torch makes welding the rounds together easier--then forging to size/shape.

Reading past posts on welding rod my understanding is the flux is what makes the rods different. The rods are basically the same mild steel. So if you mix scrap ends or just pound off the flux from different graded rod what kind of flux would you end up with--even if you could get it to stick to the pieces to be welded?

Jayco, have him check for the 3 legged easels that wreaths are displayed on. Here they are 3-4-5 feet tall with the biggest being made from 1/4" round. I get and use a bunch from the cemeteries for candle holders and such. Also used for bean stakes as they are.

I got hooked visiting a shop in Va. near relatives back in the 50's as a kid--been practicing ever since.

4 to 6 hours of actual forge use uses at least half of the 5 gal. bucket I use for coal by the forge. Like James there is always coke and some coal from the last session. I make a concentrated effort to watch the blower. I have a lever at the front of the forge for adjusting the air flow so as the piece in the fire comes out I just bump the lever down to cut the air.

I got a load of coal that's supposed to be poco #3 W.V. from a coal yard in Brazil, Ind. Cokes good--burns hot--easy to weld in. I don't think I should be getting clinkers like these pictured with this coal. I usta bring home coal from E. Ky. when visiting relatives, mined locally in Smith, Ky. that didn't have half the clinkers the last load does.

Jayco, yeah! That was a huge maple about 20 feet from the kitchen window that got the blight that killed a lot of trees here. It was heart breaking to lose. The stump is about 3' across.