marcusb

Drop hammer? A board hammer?

I love Upstate NY,  Such a beautiful place! So you tore down that building? Looked pretty nice from afar.

Thinking half moon shape on the sides? My blacker anvil has those with screws pushing against them, works great, no movement. I did something similar with my ASO and it does not move either.

I recently sold a Reed 8" bench vise for $1200 if that helps your pricing any.

I think the market is finally softening up a bit on Blacksmith tools. I notice here they are lingering longer on the sale sites for lower prices than in the recent past.

Prone to belly, lucky for you that one looks pretty straight

I shoveled 2.55 tons of #57 stone off my truck into the entrance of the new shop building. I also raked level and tamped sand for my floor (24'x24') with a tamper I made out of 3/4 plate steel and some pipe. My arms are spent. Going to get another load of stone tomorrow and repeat again......

Are the roof first buildings more expensive? I would guess the structure would be more substantial to carry the roof without the bracing of the walls.

Maple?

39 minutes ago, Jasent said:

When I need a hardy up a bit higher I just stick it in my post vice.  No drilling or chisel work needed.   

I did my hardy just as jlp suggested.  Drilling the four corners then a 1” drill bit for the center and chiseled square.  My anvil is 22” thick so no through hole.  I just drilled a hole going in the side with a slight upward angle so I can unstuck a hardy tool if needed and it makes cleaning it out easy. 

 

That's how the frenchies went about it to

No vertical adjustment is pretty wild! So enough travel in the arms to handle everything with in its range?  Come to think of it I guess my blacker is kinda like that. You set the head height and it will pretty much eat what ever you can shove under there  

Looks great, will look even better on hammers!

I do not see how it would cause it any damage from a mechanic point of view. 

2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Used to get sucker rod easily in Ohio and Arkansas and Oklahoma as well.   Often used as fencing for horses out here.

That may be the case again in NE Ohio with the Shale boom. My area used to be a-wash with it, but that boom has long since past. 

They will rotate with horn and heel work. I was referring to the nice stand Old Crew built and his mention of hold-downs. With that nice border he made all the way around the base It wont turn on the the stand. Now if he starts having someone sledge on the horns it would start rocking.

9 minutes ago, jason0012 said:

Where I live sucker rod is about as common as moon rocks. I would hate to try forging tong reins without the power hammer.

Same here!

A Menards is currently being built in the town near me!  

I see a grade #60 listed on there website. Is this the one you have been using?

I use the #500 as a general number + or minus #50 pounds  

Nice Stand Old Crew! I have found once you get to 500 pound anvils a hand hammer does not move them around all that much. A sledge on the horns would be a different matter.

Looking great!

KA 75 Concept. More of a powered treadle hammer good for tooling.

25 minutes ago, Benona blacksmith said:

Is that a die from a huge power hammer?

It is a die for a mid sized hammer.

13 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Marcus. That is a great anvil and stand.  What does the block weigh? 

Thanks! Its right at 300 pounds if I remember correctly.

My humble setup.

6 hours ago, jason0012 said:

It was a tight space before. I bought this. I really would not want to move it again.

Amen to that! I have decided if I have to move again I'm having an auction! 

How did you move/set your hammers?

Beam pivots and the eccentric pivot is about the only moving parts on those. Could always open them up and clean them out to give you peace of mind.