Tractorshaft

"The Black Widow" Gents, I had a couple of broken sledgehammers laying around and decided to make a new forging "Shorty" sledge. I really like the balance of it, it has an 8LB. head epoxied onto a solid fiberglass shaft. I epoxied some 3M non-skid rubber tape on the handle where I grip it, the lanyard tied through the drilled hole in the end of the handle aids in keeping your left hand from slipping off the end when getting after it. Here are some pictures, and yes....I was bored... Enjoy! Jerry

Hi Matt, I use BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) in a double boiler setup. I sand the handle of the loose tool a couple of inches up from the bottom of the head so it can soak in better. I also sand the top of the head where the wedges are. If you soak a loose one in warm to hot linseed or Tung Oil it will swell and stay swollen. I did a an old wooden handled sledge as a test with the warm BLO and left it out in the yard for over a year, rain, snow, hot or cold. It was still on there when I checked it out less than two weeks ago, I literally had to drill it out to replace it. The exterior looked a bit "Weathered" but less than a 1/16th under the weathered hickory was oily, hard Alabama hickory that appeared to be well preserved and wholly intact. I am glad you mentioned the alternative though, I do like the idea of the anti-freeze on the loose heads too. Its more watery consistency may allow even greater penetrative powers! You could be onto something here! I will give it a test! I know the anti-freeze also keeps the bugs out of stumps that attract them without additional pesticides or hassles. Just keep the pets away from the bucket when soaking it, it "Piazan" as they say in Tuscaloosa Jerry

Don't you guys know anything! "ACME" is an anvil manufacturer and the patent holder of the "Movable Black Hole" and "Fold-able Door", Sheesh! We aren't that old yet , are we.... Beep Beep! The "Rules" for those of you "Slipping" 1. Road Runner cannot harm the Coyote except by going "beep, beep." 2. No outside force can harm the Coyote—only his own ineptitude or the failure of Acme products. Trains and trucks were the exception from time to time. 3. The Coyote could stop anytime—IF he were not a fanatic. (Repeat: "A fanatic is one who redoubles his effort when he has forgotten his aim." —George Santayana). 4. No dialogue ever, except "beep, beep" and yowling in pain. 5. Road Runner must stay on the road—for no other reason than that he's a roadrunner. 6. All action must be confined to the natural environment of the two characters—the southwest American desert. 7. All tools, weapons, or mechanical conveniences must be obtained from the Acme Corporation. 8. Whenever possible, make gravity the Coyote's greatest enemy. 9. The Coyote is always more humiliated than harmed by his failures. 10. The audience's sympathy must remain with the Coyote. 11. The Coyote is not allowed to catch the Road Runner. Enjoy Jerry

Gents, Living in the "Elm City" (New Haven Connecticut) or close enough to smell it from here I have ready access to American Elm, of which I am going to use a stump to make a traditional anvil stand. Using an old technique taught to me by a friend who turns burls on a wood lathe, I de-barked the stump and let it dry out enough that it started to split a little around the sides. You then put it in a trashcan or any other watertight receptacle and put 100% anti-freeze (Ethelyene Glycol) in a couple of inches deep and keep it that way for a day or so. It will readily absorb the anti-freeze and unlike water, the anti-freeze causes a cellular change in the wood that will not dry out. The beauty of this process is that as the stump does dry out it will not split! Its amazing but true, now Elm is harder than Japanese arithmetic and generally resistant to splits but it will split, especially a de-barked piece. When one end has soaked a day in then solution, flip it end for end and give the other end equal time. Let it dry for a couple of weeks out in the yard with a couple of pieces of wood under it so air circulates, the stump will "Dry" out beautifully without waxing , shellacking or painting the ends. You may route it for the base of your anvil and rest confident that it will stay stable for many years. My friend when he was ready to turn bowls or vases would dry the wood out in the microwave, a big one and be danged if it did not remain stable throughout the entire process, turning, sanding and finishing. A pic is worth a thousand words so here goes... Stump Long Term Anti-Split Protection "101" See the small split forming on the edge if you look closely, when I flip it end for end and add some more anti-freeze this thing will swell up like a fat ladies ankles after eating a box of saltines. Enjoy Jerry

They use "Industrial Hard Chrome" to coat industrial machinery exposed to impact, friction, heat and any other form of use and abuse with this stuff to increase its working life. Enjoy Jerry

Thats a picture of "Flayva Flav"! A Rap artist, Flayva popularized the wearing of large watches around the neck in the 1980's and wearing a buffalo horned helmet on stage, yeah, yeah...I know Copyrighted material removed. non smithing gibberish removed.

Hi All, Some people collect stamps and coins. For the past couple of years I have started a Anvil collection I had a particularly rough Peter Wright. It given to me and was pretty beaten up. I repaired it quite successfully using a piece of copper plate and running Mig hardfacing wire on the worst of the worst. I live in Connecticut where metal platers are everywhere. I am going to bead blast the entire thing and drop it off on Friday for a maximum deposition coating of industrial hard chrome. I am curious if anyone has ever done this before? I got the idea after thinking about a nice finish that would be rust resistant. Before someone starts hollering about ruining an antique anvil this thing had absolutely zero collectors value and little practical use value until I saved it from doorstop duty. I know how it will hold up on the non impact surfaces, very very well and nearly rust proof. What I wonder is how the hard chrome will hold up on the face. A gunsmith and plater friend of mine did a 1911 LW Colt Commander for me over 20 years ago, it has been carried in a horsehide holster for many many years with little or no wear marks! But then again I havent pounded on it with a 3 lb hammer I do know one thing, when applied over a properly prepared surface it's harder than Japanese Arithmetic. I will post a photo of the before and after when I get it back from the platers next week! Should be interesting, at least it will be a conversation piece. Now, if I could only find a specimen I could get chromed like a Cadillac bumper ; That my Anvil Dawg! Thanks ! Jerry copyrighted photo removed