solvarr

the forgemonkeys.com site went down thanks to a goofy problem with a site host and a mail server change. it's back up as of this afternoon and it took a while to reclaim the URL

Some photos i was able to take courtesy of Peter Ross.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/solvarr/sets/72157620082426510/

At the Brian Brazeal hammer making class last weekend we used a punch that had an oblique slitting chisel profile in the front.

One light tap and you can see if you are lined up by the imprint in the work.
I found this style of punch much easier to align and work with than flat bottomed punches.
Brian Brazeal Blacksmith (Brian Brazeal) | MySpace
IMG_0528 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f22/animal-head-5454/

Irvan-Smith, Inc. : BEVERLY SHEAR - B-1 REPLACEMENT BLADE [bEV-B-1 BLADE] - $89.00

Beverly Shear Manufacturing Corp., The
Phone: 773-238-0003
Fax: 773-238-0028

https://www.tinmantech.com/html/beverly_shear_parts_shear.php

Beverly Shear B-1 Replacement Blades : Guillotine Shears, Bench Shears & Beverly Shears : Shears - Profiform, Bench, Guillotine, Beverly & Hand Shears : Tools & Metals : Otto Frei Guillotine Shears, Bench Shears & Beverly Shears - Jewelry Tools, Jewe

Thank you.
I found a "no" answer on the armor archive.

I picked up a harbor freight throatless shear years ago and with some tuning has served me well. The blade finally failed and I heard a rumor that the B1 blades work on the harbor freight throatless shear. Has anyone tried this?

My tent is an India style day shade. It's basicly a ten by ten marquee top with no centerpole. I have poles from each corner going to the point of the ridge stitched into the awning. I have been using it for 5 years and can't find a second one.

On the salt fork website showing the swege block it looks a little thin on the hollow that is bottom right of side one. I would be careful when hitting there. Otherwise it looks like a good value and I almost bought one. I ended up finding one at Pennsic that suited my needs perfectly.

I had a kid ask me about shoeing horses. I asked him would he trust his dentist to remove his appendix. He said 'No !' with a horrified look. I said a farrier is a specialization in blacksmithing and he seemed to get that.

Here is a 16th century Italian kitchen.
Hope it helps.

BibliOdyssey: The Renaissance Kitchen

I fully admit I made mine based on photos others had shared.
I use it whenever I travel and it has really reduced the size of my portable setup.

Tripod Vise - a set on Flickr

the most important part of welding this up is the leg hinges

drill both the hinge holes through the steel for each leg

weld one of them at the proper angle and then bolt the leg and the other piece with a hole to the leg and make sure it's as tight as you want and that the leg can rotate the way you want.

then weld a third spanner piece in to span between the second hinge piece and the main shaft as you can see here S6300296 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

this and mounting of the chain so that it can't slide up and down takes most of slop out of the tripod stand

-Solvarr

Next year well have 2 or 3 forges and keeping it to 2 an anvil.

We are also working on step by step writeups for the classes as well as demo pieces.

I made the mistake of demoing till 1am the previous night. We will avoid Thursday morning classes next year so that we can keep things rolling better.
The public demo space was a last minute surprise to us.

When you say a clasp
do you mean like for a padlock?
Thanks
Solvarr

I took some blacksmithing classes from Drogo & friends at Pennsic last week and got hooked on iron.

Drogo and friends sounds like a saturday morning cartoon.
I'm glad you had a good time at our classes.

Any class suggestions for next year?

The site to build the forge we used is WWW.FORGEMONKEYS.COM
the other burner maker is Z Burner

The kits make it easy. No muss no fuss.

-Solvarr

Hand forged bolts, nuts, wingnuts add a flair to a historic piece that you can't get any other way.
Modern nuts, bolts and other hardware looks modern .
Our eyes can spot standard lumber sizes and metal stocks easily so cutting down your lumber on a table saw or buying odd sized stock can make a huge difference in how a piece looks.


Btw. Here's my photos from the Peter Ross demo and a few related links I have been passing around.

s6301171 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

The woodwright's shop with Peter Ross doing what one of my students calls his "file ninja thing"
UNC-TV ONLINE: Video On-Demand: The Woodwright's Shop

The Mastermyr Chest
UNC-TV ONLINE: Video On-Demand: The Woodwright's Shop

Not Peter Ross but a similar hinge demo
UNC-TV ONLINE: Video On-Demand: The Woodwright's Shop

Try being more specific.
Like googling "viking bronze" to get Viking Bronze

De Re Metallica is a neat text
De re metallica - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I hope this helps some
-Solvarr

are you interested in all types of bits or just bits for drilling metal?

I am interested in wood and metal. It seems that the metal sizes and shapes are less well documented than the wood ones.

I'm working on getting a couple of online documents together telling the history of common tools we use every day. I'm starting out with drill bits. It seems that documentation for the pump/bow/brace drills are easy to find but the actual shape of the bits tends to be lacking.

If anyone has any photos or references it would be greatly appreciated.

My goal is to start with rome and finish up with the invention of the twist bit in 1861.

Be advised that loud sudden noises are not tolerated well by this type of group. Talk with the teachers ahead of time and ask about noises. You'll need to have seats for them and assign boundary's like no one can go past the rope.

Very true.
I put a rope up now after having several autistic kids charge the forge.

If I ever do a commission for PETA I'll know the tool to use.

Unless I am missing something won't you want more than 60 amp to run a decent stick welder?

Sounds like good material for grilling forks, steak turners, and small cutlery sets

Could you please post a photo of your base cutout and the finished product so far.
Also list the techniques you have tried step by step.
It'll really help to troubleshoot your issue.

1st: Ohhh my breaking back.
2nd: Cmon kid hit the hot steel not the anvil.
3rd: what is that student doing with that chisel?!?! Make them stop.
4th: oooh shiny

heres one I built last year works ok
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/new-portable-post-vise-stand-6853/

The 55 gallon barrel filled with water works great I have mine setup a hair from the shop doors so I can swing the doors open and start to work.

I put a wood insert into the top of the barrel to rigidize it and mounted my vise to a piece of square pipe with a good footing welded on.

I used some thin angle iron to mount the square pipe to the barrel. Start your weld on the angle iron an span it over to the barrel and you will be less likely to burn through the barrel. I did about forty little tack welds to the barrel and it is rock solid.


The tripod has been a godsend. If i have a friend who wants to play. I have them grab the extra anvil and haul it out and set up the tripod.

They work out of the back of the forge and I work out of the front of the gasser and we don't burn any more gas and we aren't tripping over each other


I mounted my hinges about six inches higher than jimbob did which means longer legs but the physics made sense to me. Right now I am looking for socket set at the flea market so I can attach a ratchet with the right size socket to it so I can always disassemble and reassemble it fast. For lighter loading in the car.