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I Forge Iron

Ironduck

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    Maine USA

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  1. I'm comming late in reading and now posting to this thread, and it is tempting to let the dog lie but in the oft chance that someone is still considering the OP I shall offer the following assessment. For me it has been both an interesting and disapointing thread to read. So many knowledgable Smiths in regards to methods that have worked for them, both in practice and in teaching settings, but I'm not sure that many were listening to each other or staying on the topic or kernal of the OP. Brian didn't help his cause much during his opening proposal or his early attempts to convey motivatio
  2. Ironduck

    forge

    interesting design. With all the air currents flowing under, and cooling, your forge shelf, does the chamber get very hot (all things being realitive)?
  3. Ironduck

    Tongs with an attitude

    Too beautiful to use - definitely a display piece.
  4. Ironduck

    5# of 1095

    OD, I'm shocked that none of the experienced Smiths on this site haven't commented about your choice in metal. Do you really dislike your anvil that much that you'd use 95pt carbon steel on it? (a good bit higher concentration than is warranted - 45pt might be a better and safer steel.) You should always want your hammer a bit softer than your anvil (a hammer is a good deal less expensive to replace or repair than an anvil). Hopefully someone PM'd you, but that doesn't help the other new smiths that might see this chunk of steel and think that it's OK. You asked for advice, so that is my
  5. Ironduck

    Mystery tool

    Ben Smith is the closest to being on mark. They were used by linemen to twist hard drawn copper overhead lines (making what was known in the 40s, and there about, as a Westinghouse splice). You needed two sets of the "crimpers", as shown, with a proper space between them and then they were rotated about the axis of the wires that were placed in adjacent parallel grooves. Some time during the 50s it became common to place the wires in a copper sleeve first and them twisting the bundle.
  6. Peter, Thanks for your interest in my optimization of JasonM's original post. I don't have any dimensioned drawings for the entire treadle hammer, except for the free-body diagrams of the Hoecken's mechanism, as the rest of the treadle hammer would need to be sized according to the user. (I'm 6'-2" tall and what would be comfortable for me for the type of use I would want for this hammer might not fit the needs of most others). The wooden prototype that I threw together was aproximately 1/2 scale, and was mostly just cut on the fly - no drawing for the frame (only the Hoecken's mechanism).
  7.     Daniel, I'm a bit late to the parade, there's been a good deal of deserved encouragement and positive feedback given by others, but I'd like to offer some unsolicited recommendations. Now please don't take any of this negatively. You're young and show tremendous talent (you tongs are well made), so this is all the more reason that it would be a crime if you were to leave the craft prematurely due to frustration, fatigue, or injury (I mention that only because you seem really tense in the film - relax your shoulders and breath naturally). Now for the benefit o
  8. Dale, I'm not sure I know what tongs you are calling "round nose", unless you are talking about farrier's tongs? As for making the jaws on your tongs, always consider their intended function. For example, box jaw tongs made too light or thin will not do well to hold thick material, and conversely rivet tongs made too stout will draw too much heat from the rivet before you get to upset the rivet. Considering that you're just starting and looking for information, I would like to add to the reference that Francis Trez Cole provided, The Blacksmith's Manual, thought slightly off topic, you
  9. Deadlines definitely work for you. Not quite traditional celestial Pisces in layout, but unquestionably elegant in form. -Charlie
  10. Fancy word - well as ciadog already stated: "Door lites", but possibly Door fenestration is more what you were looking for. And regarding the iron work - very nice indeed, and all in eight hours - I trip over too much stuff in my shop to be able to work that quickly.
  11. TubularFab, The candle holders look real good. Your trouble with maintaining uniform pitch could be addressed by instead of curling the rod individually, take two rods (or three rods if you want a really steep pitch) side by side and wrap them simultaneously around your form (pipe, large rod, or some other mandrel) and when you've got the coil length you want just uncoil the rods from each other and finish the ends as necessary. The extra rod (s) will determine the pitch and help in maintaining uniformity in the wrap, and it also means one more gift for someone - Just a thought. -Charli
  12. Arranged as they are, they're look good - but they might interfere with use of your anvil. ;) Or is that why your wife liked them, so you'd spend more time inside with her.
  13. Dave, Looks nice. I have to second JohnB's suggestion regarding the guide tube for the latch handle - but that would be for your next stove. Also regarding the handle it looks like it will be terminating somewhere in close proximity of the stove's heat surface - maybe it would be better to have had it angled differently and had the handle portion more loosely spaced like that of the old parlor stove lifting handles - better cooling (looks like a tapered coil springs wound around the shaft of the lifter). Overall, nice work. -Charlie Had to go back in and edit my post, which I
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