Countryboy39067

It's my understanding you lose almost 1/2 of the original diameter after the weld as the air space is collapsed. The weight idea is great!! I have all kinds of different braid types so it should be interesting to say the least.

I've been collecting up lengths of cable in various diameters for a few months now. I plan to make a few cable katanas in the future. My question is does anyone use a formula for calculating how much cable you need to make your desired blade length. I understand cable comes in many diameters as well as winding configurations. What I need is a way to estimate how much 1/2 inch cable I need to make a 30 inch blade 1/4 inch thick. Thanks for reading this.

Kevin

By not buying steel until I get better hammer control. The old family scrap pile is my best friend!! Also I gather multiple projects and forge them back to back as to save coal and time. And finally my most money saving idea.....making all of my own tools. Ive decided that if I don't have the talent to make some item....I practice till I do. I have more time than money like most smiths.

Kevin

I'm planning on building a charcoal cooking unit. I live in the middle of a plethora of pine timber so I say why not!!

I'm gonna stick with my original plan and build a cover for the buffer to keep grinder gremlins out.

Kevin

I've been told in the past on this site that 100 pounds of coal with give you approximately 40 hours of forging. Naturally give or take a few hours and 50 pounds should be around 20 hours or so of forge time. I've never used charcoal myself but from what I can tell, the above holds true. Hope that helps.

Kevin

Grinders put out a lot of crud that you would prefer to not be near the buffer or any other motor that has open windings.

My grinders will be in the "dirty shop" and my buffers will be in the "clean shop"

Do some research. Duct tape comes in narrow sizes too. I used to cut them in half with a utility knife for lining dirt bike wheels as a more water tight seal instead of the rubber strip that protects the tube from the spoke heads. I found half width rolls at Walmart.

Great idea. Less stress on the wall structure and safer all the way around. Thanks!!

That's exactly why I'm arranging it like I described above. Sort of in a assembly line fashion. Of course you can't set the shop up to have everything in order for any future project. I'm setting it up similar to many drawings blacksmith floor plans I've seen on the internet.

Hope ya like em where ya plant em! It you have Thoroughly thought out where you want your equipment then go for it. but seems a little overkill for a grinder and buffer. Congrats on closing in your shop!

I have put a lot of thought into it. Mine is a dirt floor so rearranging won't be a difficult thing later. It's a lean to attached to my other shop measuring at approx. 20'x15'. I'm aranging everything in a counter clockwise method. As you enter, the forge is on the right. The anvil, post vise and powerhammer will be arranged in a cresent shape around the forge. Along the right wall will be post mounted grinder and buffer. Along the back wall will be a full length work bench for drill press and the likes. Down the left wall will be another bench, sink and finishing the wall space with a woodworking table.
I havent built the powerhammer or 2x72 grinder I want yet, but I've allowed lots of space for them. I'll post pictures when I'm finished. I'll need someone to post them for me since my phone won't allow me to post pictures on here. Thanks for the replies.

I turned my back for just a second and got a 4 1/2 inch grinder. It's illegitimate but I'll love it anyway.

I finally got around to siding up my smithy today. Next step is electrical and workbenches. I'm planning on mounting my 6" grinder and 8" buffer on individual 6x6 post. They will be sunk in the earth approx. 36" with bolts ran through them and planted with cement. Does anyone see a problem with this setup idea?
Kevin

Could be used to replace a strand in a cable for a stripe effect in knives and the sort. I'm making big fish hooks and dental type picks.

Thomas, I think he meant they were re-rolling scrap rail into smaller sections, not using it as-is. I have seen mills buy worn out rail by the hundreds of miles for quality products. It is very uniform, high quality scrap.

Wouldn't think that RR rail would have the break away needed for road sign posts these days. Seems like overkill and a waste of high carbon steel when low carbon would work. Out this away they are used a lot for cattle guards where the strength and wear resistance is a plus. Of course I live in a Free Range county (if you don't want cattle on your land you have to fence them out---the owners do not have to fence them in.

It was a cool show cause it demonstrated how everything from the cross ties to the engine was recycled or reconditioned and put back into service.

Just watched an episode of Bone Yard where they converted old rail track into T-post, road sign post and garage door rails. That's good scrap info in my book!!

My niece plays in the steel drum band at Holmes Community College. Pretty cool island music!!

Dave, Hearing that you like them made my day. I am always impressed with your endeavors. All the cuts are made with a hacksaw. Slow cutting as it takes time for me to make them straight but it's a labor of love .

J, I got the idea from another members post on IFI. I am sorry that I can't recall who it was but they deserve the credit for the cross idea. The thought of using the hardy to upset the bottom just looked like it would work so maybe that was my one origonal idea.

Looks like a great craft selling item. Any suggestions on selling price?
"Necessity, the mother of invention" George Farquhar

Go to the drug store and buy a can of Prid. I open the area with a needle put some
this Prid salve on a band aid put on the finger, most times the offending object
( wood, metal whatever) will be on the surface the next morning, Some times takes
a couple days. I have had my can for 20 years and wouldn't be without it.

TRIP steel is a high-strength steel typically used in the automotive industry. TRIP stands for "transformation induced plasticity." TRIP steel has a triple phase microstructure consisting of ferrite, bainite, and retained austenite. During plastic deformation and straining, the metastable austenite phase is transformed into martensite. This transformation allows for enhanced strength and ductility. It seems to me if it's heated to critical then "programming" previously described will be void. Since most smiths insert a high carbon wedge for an axe edge I would aleast give it a try. If for no other reason than being one up on us and sharing the knowledge.

Bowling pins make good targets, just go to the bowling alley and ask for some old pins, got a whole box for free, you have to set them back up manually

Thanks! I never thought about cutting them and doing it like that. I have a 5ft section of track. I believe that will be enough to make most of the dies I want. Whats a good use for the section you cut out?