hillsideshortleg

Around 35 years ago I went to collage for Hydraulics and pneumatics and industrial controls. I have forgotten a lot and decided to stop by the Industrial Automation building of our local collage. The one i went to years ago. I was actually there 2 hours talking about the old times and how things have changed. The instructor entered in my parameters of my hammer and the cylinders I have at hand. He knocked down my 7.75" cylinder and said it would work but the low pressures I would be running at would make it very inefficient. So am switching over to the 4" cylinder I have. It's a 24" stroke and will cut the stroke down. What is a good stroke length for me to use? I found some 1/2" 4 way valves out in my shed as well as some larger 2 way valves. Talking to the instructor I think we may dump all the air on the rod end out of a larger valve as the piston is dropping. he knew nothing about hammers but liked the idea of using a PLC for the controls. I got the impression that he had experience in driving pilings in using pneumatics. But anyway, what is a good stroke length? Thanks you in advance

I have a large chunk of 1" thick phenolic that I would like to use as a wear surface in my hammer. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea using it for the slide box of the hammer? The box will be around 32" tall and the hammer is around 4" x 8" x 34" and i have enough to line the whole box. Good idea or bad idea? We are making the fit adjustable for future wear. Thanks in advance

I hang out at the scrap yard more than I should. I think the refrigerator motor housings are a perfect start for making heads as well as other things. I used one also to create a grill for a mini farm tractor we built.

I started this years ago and found that back in 2010 I was asking questions on here. I asked on a facebook group and didnt hear what my itching ears wanted to hear. I am posting pictures of my progress and really want to use a 7.75 in diameter cylinder. I was watching a video of a guy taking a self contained hammer apart to reseal it. I see there was very large ports and I got the idea of mounting a receiver tank on the back of the hammer and having large, maybe 1.5" lines running into the cylinder and making a very large port valve to control it. This would then be a low pressure high volume cylinder movement. I have read on here the pros and cons of this hammer and that hammer and the thought came to me, is it just a matter of coming up with the controls to make the cylinder act the way you want. My confused mind is telling me, think outside the box. I was watching a video on a Massey Clear hammer and saw the guy making adjustments to the controls to get it to work the way he wanted. I enjoy PLC's and what they can do, and am wondering if my thinking is way off to make a cylinder act the way you want, using various forms of control of the air. I have no idea what I will use this hammer for. I have built other machines that i found uses for later and think I basically enjoy the challenge when we are slow. I use this to keep the guys busy when we are slow and cannot afford to buy a store bought one. LOL The last pictures are of the hammer and the slide we are building for it to travel in. we will line it with some form of nylon. I think the hammer will weigh around 250 lbs. Im really interested in feedback an making this a Frankensteine of automation. The base is around 2500lbs and the vertical uprights are around 1000lbs before the slide box and hammer and cylinder. Thanks for any creative comments

Thank you for sharing. Very nice to learn.

My wifes grandma turned out to be very special to me. She was pretty tough. I took a picture of her hands and have always like hands and eyes. I saw a lot of my wife in her grandma and decided not to use grandma's hands as the model but used my wifes. I took so long to build this that someone put some small headstone at the graveyard. I really enjoy grinding and just started grinding away.

Ouch!!!! and my lovely wife the hand model. 7 year project LOL

Heck I may as well dig out a basement and put in there. A light bulb minute!!!!!

The fill is around 5 years old. In that corner of the building I pored a peer on virgin ground then used barrels welded together to get the height I needed and tied it all together with rebar. Yes I stepped into it back then and now I am thinking anything I do on that end of the building could create settling. I am going to have to rethink my whole shop layout. Thanks for the input. I did compact it in lifts with the wheel of my tractor(but I dont think that counts) 5 years ago I ended up getting 50 to 75 loads of fill in a 3 day period. I was pushing dirt so fast I could hardly keep up. Thanks again

I am starting to think about poring concrete for my 250 little giant footing. The area of the shop I want to put it is on has around 10' deep of fill. The fill is a clay mix. Is this a mistake. Any advice? I see the size that is recomended for this hammer and was thinking I should increase the size, but then I am also thinking I may be stepping into my next pile of crap. But I have been trying to keep my feet clean Thanks Rick

I have horror stories involving a milling machine and a lathe and this hill we live on. We lifted the hammers from the top of the "C" and it ballanced out well. Thanks for the help I think we would have lifted them from the shaft if it wasnt for all the advice from you folks. Thanks

I hope to have them home Friday, Will have more info on the 100 lb soon after. I think I found some spare parts for the 250lb little giant that i will most likley be selling also.

This is a 15ch 2861 series self contained power hammer. It was rebuilt around 15 years ago and since then has been used maybe once a year. $6000.00 and is located in Spokane Washington. There is a crane there that can be used to disassemble and load on a truck. 509-238-6042

yes

Do you have any intrest in a 1000lb (i Think) Chambersburg self contained?

One is a 250lb and the other is a 100lb. The 100lb will be for sale soon.

I need to move a couple of Little Giants and have never moved one before. Any tips on Do's and Dont's. Iam sure letting it slide off the froklift or letting it slide off a steel bed of a truck are the easy ones to figure out. Please dont ask me how I know. No it wasnt one of these hammers. Thanks

I am building up the anvil for a home made hammer and am at around 2000 lbs and have a hunk of 4" square around 24" long that I would like to use as a hammer. I have been thinking about a leaf spring type but am wondering how it would work to have a air cylinder attached to the hammer to create a air cushion. By varying the pressure on the sides of the piston, would that soften the hit of the hammer? I am building from the anvil up and figured I would work out the actual method of getting the thing to BANG when I get to the point of welding in the vertical tube every thing will hang off. Thanks in advance for any tips Rick

Dodge Is the base to your hammer a solid plate or does it just look like it? Thanks

So dang it im a bull headed Norwegian. I have found a 28" dia. x 6" tall plate that I would like to BOLT the 2- 24"dia. x 3" tall plates to using a nice circular bolt pattern. I would be up 12" and would use a smaller taller round stock till I get to a good height. Question is? If the plates are bolted and torqued tight would I loose energy. I also like the idea of a larger footprint and having something substantial to attach my vertical column to.

Just so I know, what is the results of having too much horizontal interface. Thanks for the help Rick

Can I include the 3" x 24" diameter base plate or plates for figuring the ratio" I also have some other heavy round stock I can through in just to build up the weight. Also will it take a lot of welding to attach these properly or can just a pass or two around the differant pieces work. What is an ideal heigth of the anvil. While I was down at the Mall today I noticed some peices of 4" square solid that was 3' long. Would this make a nice hammer? Thanks for the replies. Rick Nelson

I am going to start building my homemade hammer and I am starting with the anvil first. This may be backward or wrong but I specialize in backward or wrong so it will be nothing new. My choices are: 24" dia x 3" thick base with a 7" solid round stock welded to it how ever tall you all recomend. I could also double up the base and make it 2- 3" x 24" disc on top of each other with the 7" solid round welded to the top. My other choice is to use the 24" dia. disc (1 or 2) and weld a 8" od x 4 1/2" id tube to the disc and make it however tall you all recomend. I like the idea of the tube so I could drop differant fixtures in the hole and have it rest on the tube wall. The weight of the tube per foot is very close to the weight of the 7" round, around 120 lbs per foot. Looking for any help you all will offer Thanks Rick Nelson

Dragons Lair I have a 015sr mini. Ya I get made fun of by the hip dudes with the big machines. What is a MET Kit backhoe? We build and install automatic entry gates and the small mini works well for digging small 5' deep holes for our post.

I am curious, Is your mini a Kobelko and what size is it? I have been wondering how a post hole digger would work on a small mini. Thanks Rick