plane_crazzy

What danger is there in using a galvanized pipe? It is not directly in the fire but will it get hot enough to be a danger from fume fever?

I will give it another shot with just wood starting and see how that goes. I do not know what the problem is. I have never had difficulty getting a fire going before.

I really hate to have to post a question like this but I am at my wits end.  I have had the same forge and blower for about 2 years now and have never had any trouble getting a fire going. Usually all it takes is some news paper mixed in and I am forging in 15 minutes.  Here lately I have been unable to get a fire going at all. the blower is still blowing hard, and I even totally redid the entire airpipe from the blower to the tuyere just to be sure I had no leakage.  I have gotten coal from the same place and it looks and feels the same.  I have dumped lighter fluid on it and as soon as the fluid burns off the coal is only smoldering at best. Today I cranked on the blower for 20 minutes and finally got a small fire going, but there was no heat in it. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!? I am absolutely frustrated and have no idea what is going on at this point.  Any help?

I was looking at a small table top "Skil" brand saw and kinda liked it for the size and compactness, but not sure if it can handle metal like I need it to.

I have a chop saw I use for cutting stock and also a horizontal bandsaw, but it doesnt have a table to use it as a vertical saw.

Saw a couple threads this morning about bandsaws but I didnt want to hijack other peoples threads. For a small hobby shop, what would everyone recommend for a small bandsaw for steel? I wouldnt use it a whole lot, mostly rough cutting out of some various shapes. I would like one that could cut 1/4" thick material. Obviously I would like to spend as little as possible. Thanks.

Thanks frosty. I just mentioned AutoCAD since thats the one I am currently learning. I will look that one up.

I am currently in a machinist training program and one of the things we are learning is AutoCad. by chance one of my instructors is also a blacksmith in his spare time and he has told me that he once saw someone selling a version of CAD that was made with blacksmiths in mind. I have searched all over for some type of software like this but to no avail. I am terrible drawing, even with graph paper, so being able to draw a design in some type of CAD would be very nice. Anyone ever heard of such a thing?

please pardon the question. I found my answer inside one of the stickies that I had missed.

I recently purchased a piece of pattern welded Damascus billet from a knife supply shop. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good place to look for patterns for knife blanks? I would like to look at some to get an idea on dimensions and a basic shape. I have a similar sized piece of 1095 that I am hoping to use as a trial before committing the Damascus. This would be my first endeavor into knife making and would appreciate any guidance that can be given.

Thanks for the help Thomas. always appreciate your comments, always very helpful

Yeah I am anxiously awaiting it! can't hardly wait! but I was hoping to get an idea what price to put on it. Thanks for the advice fellas.

I was hoping for some assistance on how much to ask for a 81lb Lakeside I have. Looking on ebay most in that weight range are set at about 400 buy it now, plus 100 shipping. but if people were willing to pay that the anvil wouldnt still be on ebay... so... should I be asking about the same? should I ask about the same as that price plus the shipping? any advice here? Thanks

I thank everyone for their input. We will see if he decides that he wants to try it out and go from there. I just dont want him beating up my nice fisher if he does want to try it.

my apologies on taking so long to get the pictures.

I will post a picture of it tonight or tomorrow morning so you can see what I am talking about. But it is pretty extensive damage. something a quick grind job isnt going to help. Thanks for the over whelming response already.

I have an old anvil that has been beaten up over the years. I am hoping to build it up and grind it down to usable condition for some people who want to try out blacksmithing and maybe getting involved in it. But I dont want my good anvil beaten up in the process....I have talked to a couple people knowledgeable in this sorta thing and they said I want to use high impact welding rods. What they forgot to mention is where I would find such a thing. Any help on that?

What is your opinion of their normal metal primer?

I just finished a wind chime hanger that is riveted to a piece of 1 inch square tubing about 6 feet long. I was planning on sandblasting the entire project before moving on to painting, but ran across rust oleum's rusty metal primer. All the metal is hot rolled so even the parts that didn't get heated have mill scale on them. Has anyone tried this product on mill scale? I have the equipment to blast it down to bare metal, but if using this primer can save me a step it would seem like it is worth a shot. Thanks

I have a 3"x18" standard belt sander and have found that it is actually nice for removing some mill scale from some of my work. My only question is, do they make belts in this size designed for use on metal? I am currently using a pile of belts that I have gotten over the years, but they are all wood belts and obviously dont last very long on metal. thank you.

I just got my pressurized sand blaster hooked up went to the store and bought some sand to try it out. to my disappointment all they had was sand that had water droplets on the inside of the bag from condensation. when I tore open the bags the sand was wet to the touch. If I try to pour this in my blaster it is gonna give me nothing but problems. any suggestions on best way to dry out about 200lbs of sand?

pictures as promised. Just got it home so havent had a chance to clean it up or use flour to see the markings better. Seeing it in person. it pretty clearly says lakeside across the side. under that I think it says 81. on the front foot is a serial number. condition looks to be excellent. Ended up giving $225 for it.

lol its the internet. never yours till its in the car and you are down the road. made arrangements to pick it up, all I can do.

not sure. I will post better pictures when I get it home :-)

He is asking 250.