plane_crazzy

lol truth be told I am the young one, I am 28 and he is 60. But I totally understand what you are meaning

That is an idea Rich, I hadnt thought of that. Demonstrate that it is fully functional instead of just saying it. I like that

He is bound and determined. I dont know why. I told him if he isnt happy ill give him the 300 he paid for it!

He is bound and determined. I dont know why. I told him if he isnt happy ill give him the 300 he paid for it!

hehe forgot to hit attach....

thanks fluid its funny you linked that. I actually was reading that article the other day. I do agree Rich, it seems like he wants to do all this without swinging a hammer on it once and I am honestly not sure why. It looks fully usable to me. Here is the only Picture I have of it, as it sits right now.

A fellow that I have the pleasure of swinging a hammer with on occasion recently picked up a 230lb peter wright. while in overall good condition some of the edges have been chipped and he feels that it needs to be welded up and milled flat.  I am not sure that I share his sense of urgency for the repair, but he seems determined to do it. I own a milling machine so that is actually the easy part. My concern is what type of rod to use. I know I have seen detailed discussion on here regarding what type of rod to use, but I cannot find it today when I went looking.  Searching ebay I can find several different types of hard facing rods, but some say that they cannot be machined.  The local welding shop says that he can order me in some steel on steel hard facing rods, but I believe I have read about them being prone to cracking. I cannot remember if it was here or somewhere else, but are steel on rock rods less prone to the spider cracking from hard impact?  Any help here is appreciated. It is a beautiful anvil and I hate to see us ruin it trying to make it "perfect"

was hoping for the extreme tour, but we may have to check out the original. Sounds fun. Thanks for the info!

Just my luck, we are going just late enough in the year that they do not do the ghost tours on a nightly basis, only friday and saturday...

we will be there for about 3 days, but I do not know how many days my wife will tolerate staring at metal. are the ghost tours any good quick?

anything in general. I guess some of the wrought iron gate and that sorta thing would be the biggest thing I dont want to miss.  I hear it is all over there so its kinda easy to miss a few great examples mixed in the multitude of recreations.  We do not have much in this part of the country like that to look at so I want to get as much of it in as I can, and my wife will tolerate!

I am going to be visiting Williamsburg next week and one of the big things on my list to see is the old ironwork.  I was wondering if there was something in particular that I had to be sure to see while I was there.

I shall file it away in a pile of spare parts then, thanks fellas

I got this in a bucket of hammers and wondered if anyone had any idea what it was off of? It does not look as though it has been cut off, it is nice and smooth. Any help is appreciated.

Greetings! southern Ohio is a big place. I am over by Cincinnati. Clear your schedule and make arrangements to go to SOFA Quadstate in september. It is a wonderful event. I will actually be doing a little work at an antique machinery show this weekend just east of Cincinnati.

What size blade do you have newman?

working in a smaller shop, the shower of sparks, and where they land, are a concern for me. I do the cutting in a separate building from my forge so I do not have spark arresters around the important things. Hot chips arent a great solution, but I think it might be a better one.

I have been using a standard 14" abrasive cut off saw for a while and was considering making the leap to a carbide tipped saw.  I have been looking at the rage saws at sears, both 7.25" and 14" and wondering if anyone has owned or used either, or if they could recommend a good one at a reasonable price.  I of course like the 150 dollar price tag of the 7.25" but the 1/4" thick rating for material it can cut worries me.

I ended up getting a mid grade craftsman die grinder and using a 1/4" carbide burr. It took it off nice and didnt really mar the metal. I also have a carbide tool for the dremel to get in on the corners so I did not have to radius everything to get in to it with the bigger tool. Thanks for the input fellas, if I remember I will take a pic of the finished product. I usually forget

any good suggestions what brand to go with? I have looked at some ingersol rand, campbell hausfeld and some craftsman. They all seem to have about the same specs and they all have similar reviews.

I think I am gonna pick up a straight die grinder tomorrow and give it a try. I have some 1/4" Tungsten Carbide burr tools that I can use. I did not realize they spun as fast as they did till I was looking at the specs. Even my dremel will only do 3500rpm. the Husky die grinder spins 20,000!

I have a need to grind the inside of some 3/16 x 8 flat steel that I had a buddy plasma cut letters out of.  Sadly his cutting left a less than straight profile on the letters and I find myself needing to grind the sides flat.  The letters are about 3 inches tall over all so I cannot really get an angle grinder into them. I tried a carbide burr tool in a drill but it cannot spin it fast enough. I have a smaller burr tool that I can fit in a dremel that I can spin much faster but the size limits my optimism about it being able to remove enough metal. Any suggestions other things to try?

Good luck with that one Ronin, there is nothing here to vacation to! On a side note I did try to extract the old bolt from the anvil.... no go. Did not budge. Any other ideas? Considering drilling a hole through the bolt and trying an easy out, but dont have much hope for that working either.

:Double Post

I did not figure I would get the full 200, but it gives me a place to start. Thomas is right, Ohio is anvil rich. Both a wonderful blessing and a curse.