Jeff Seelye

Dodge, Nice system, I like the angled dies, that way you have lots of room. Yea, a fixture would help for geting them both to line up and to keep the overhead welding to a minimum.

Drool, Nice size too.

Thanks Ted, I am assembling parts to build a hammer and I found some 4140. I was thinking this would be good, I just didn't know for sure.

If you need to make a special die, for any type hammer, what is your favorite steel to use. Do you pick them because you can harden them yourself or are you looking for a certain toughness or hardness? Or do you stick with stock dies from your hammer manufacturer? How about all of you tire or junkyard hammer guys, you have to make your own. What are the benefits that you all have found to the steels you like? If this is a topic already discussed please let me know, I didn't see it. Thanks

My first demo, I thought I would die or go blind from the smoke. I have a flat cast forge pan and the smoke was everywhere. I built a hood and got 6" of stovepipe. Yes, it takes much more time to set up but it beats trying to talk to someone with tears streaming down your face. Pay attention to which way the wind blows at demo's too.

That is a lot of work. Great Job!

Great video Dave! What a great way to see what you really look like demonstrating in front of the public. People love to see someone that obviously knows what they are doing. We are blacksmiths and craftsmen but in front of the public we are showmen. It's hard to talk, answer questions and work at the same time. Good work!

I buy from 2 different steel companys and they each have their own color system. I don't depend on them any more than I depend on the color of my O2 tank (they can be any color they want to be)

I always wondered what they were. I got a pair of them with some other tongs at an auction. Was helping a buddy build a deck with some really twisted lumber, went home got the "pipe tongs", cut them off so they would fit between the joists and made real easy work out of it. Can't believe I used them for the wrong purpose!

Thanks Ted, The really scary part was that there was no warning.

Just curious, How do you know it's stainless? I would be reluctant to hit anything that I didn't know what it was. I have a friend that had a chip of a hammer head under his scalp for a couple hours because he hit something almost as hard with it. Just my opinion... but I would stick with what I knew for a hammer head.

Now you have me thinking. I was scared to try the UHMW and didn't want to waste my time if I was going to have to tear it down and change it. I like your "(ab)use", I tend to push tools sometimes also and I tend to overbuild because of that. How did you attach the UHMW?

Thanks for the replys folks! I think I am headed for the two metal system. Heck, I even liked the air hammer inputs. Good slides are good slides! Arftist, with discriptions like that... who needs pictures!

Thanks for the replys! I think you see where I am at. Cast iron would be the best but I don't have access to material or machining. I guess my question was misleading. I'm trying to think of what I can do to get started on a hammer without finding out the "better' way after I already build it. Bronze or UHMW are both possibilities but scale and UHMW don't seem to mix well.

Wow, hadn't even thought about CI. Just for wear I was thinkin about bronze. Had a die maker tell me about ampco 18, said it was real good for slides but I couldn't find any. I'm just fishing for plans better than steel on steel.

I was looking at several hammer slide mechanisms. What is the best sliding mechanism. I've seen steel on steel, brass on steel. I'm kinda looking for Pictures or sketches if you've got any.

Not all lawnmower blades are created equaL Spark testing is a good start in finding carbon content.

Looks like you are off to a good start. Good anvil, hot forge, what more could you ask for?

May look "stupid-simple" but it looks solid and leads to other ideas.

You have two things. 1. low carbon steel 2. A lump o' coal. How do you get the lump o' coal into the low carbon steel to make high carbon steel? Well, you can and you can't. If you want a bar of high carbon steel that is hi carb all the way thru then buy it. If you want to add carbon, you can, but only on the surface, this is called Carburizing. Steel is made up of atoms of iron and carbon that hook together. When you heat it, the atoms of iron vibrate faster and move further apart. When this happens, carbon can be added (around 1800 degrees F). I use Barium Coke in a box. This process takes time, (4 to 8 hours) and you are only getting around 40 thousandths depth (.040) of carbon. There are many ways to add carbon, this is only one. I only use this when someone brings me a frizzen that doesn't give the spark they want. Carburizing is also good for shafts that have a tough core and a hard surface.

Hi, I'm from Mich. Found this site while looking up some info for my shop. Figured I better intro myself before I start asking questions.I've been interested in this stuff for years. After High School I took every class related to metal I could find at our local Comm. College which included all the welding classes. Found a job as a welder and 28 years later, blacksmithing is still my hobby. I think this is a great site and am looking forward to listening/lurking/chatting/posting.