Agita

Where are you I know of a couple of professional black powder makers a but north of me. I could get the contact info if you were interested. They make everything from the barrel to the lock.

The book FOXFIRE #5 has a large chapter on how to make gun barrels. If a person had enough Damascus made up I don't think that it would be a problem to weld up 2 pieces together. Kinda twist welded around a static pole. about 10 bucks http://www.amazon.com/Foxfire-5-Inc-Fund/dp/0385143087/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1277492420&sr=8-1

The packaging is at home I don't know who right now. Actually back when I got it I looked up the company that made the steel to see if I could order more (more that the place that sold it to me had no Idea what to charge me and I wanted to know),.. And.......... They didn't sell it but they did manufacture precision measurement stuff and the piece I have was for a 18" caliper. Why ? You guys got some too? wanna get rid of it. I might be able to get a few more like it. ~ 12" - ~ 2' (1"x0.5") EDIT: Forgot!!! is shale white looking coal in the forge? Not until its burning can I see small pieces that look stark white , Wasn't good enough for my thickness lol.

My Goodness please forgive me for not seeing my own thread was getting more replies. Thought it got lost. Yes it is a blade. Got a piece of fancy O-1 that looked perfect size just not in thickness. Didn't want to destroy it by making it uneven. I knew if I hammered it it would be a tiny bit too thin and I would have ruined it. I do have plenty of steel butt,.. this piece came in a case with spectrometry measurements packed in cotton soaked in some weird red oil in a bag then in a plastic case. Darn piece of paper telling test results. Thought it would make a perfect piece to go all out on my favorite style of knife. Edit: BTW it makes a long straight spark with a brilliant fizz at the end. I ended up hammering it and using a flat fuller?? (I don't know what those are called, looks like a spring swage for the hardie) got it a little above where I want the thickness. basic shape cut out but still lots of work left. I've never worked with a piece of metal that has this little scale fall off. I've had some weird yellow plasticish popcorn-looking stuff mixed with my coal (My forge has no clinker breaker) that has never been there before. Looks kinda like the "Great stuff" insulation in a can. Just 2 or three golf ball sized pieces. Thanks for the suggestions keep'em commin.

xxxx I wish I could. Everything I have is just a shade too thin and without ordering more I have nowhere I can just go to get it. Working with limited resources. Got plenty of steel just none as fancy as my thicker stuff. Besides I've already cut and shaped this thing.

thanks, It is an annealed piece of O1. I wouldn't mind to hammer it but I thought There might be a better way. I Love to learn something new (peferably before I go through a bunch of trouble)

How would yall go about reducing the thickness of a piece of steel? I would just pound it flat but I want perfectly even thickness and I don't have a flatter. would you grind it with a angle grinder, or stick it hot in a vise. The piece isn't much size. say 1" x .5" x 10". Opinions?

Sorry , said that in jest. I'm afraid I'm a bit far away. I never run across those your lucky. I got ahold of one only once before. Suckers about 6 feet long. I was told it was used for changing tires on tractor tailors. about a foot or so is square down to a chisel point and the other end tapers to a smaller rounded point.

MMMMMM...... teleport that rock breaker bar over here. lol The "I" beam is a traditional I shape and about 1.5" or 2" thick. like they just needed to take a couple inches off a longer piece. I would say 12 or 14 inch wide and tall. I've always wanted a stake like that and lately I have seen all sorts of designs almost like a swage on one end and taped to a nice sharp horn on the other side. Kinda wanna make somthing like that. Picked up a large 2' blade, 2 1' blades , 15' of 3"bandsaw blade, some RR spikes, some shear tips off a bushhog, and a 4" steel pipe for a stand for my new vise. all for ~6.00 I love that place.

Well spoken, Sometimes you ask for advice to hear what you suspect but don't want to admit. Thanks for the info I never read that post. (edit)(actually That is an Amazing post THANKS)

Had a recent trip to the metalyard and brought some 3' saw blades back. Also some 12" metal-cutting saw blades. According to the North Texan Blacksmith Association Junkyard List, the large Mill saw blades are L6 , before I weld together with some O1 this weekend can anyone tell me if they think that is correct or will I end up with something that won't stick. Anyone happen to have a guess what the metal cutting blades are? Second Would yall know if a cut off piece of of a 18" tall "I" beam work for one of these ? Its the general shape and all. Saw it and it was like a moment of inspiration. Thanks ahead of time -Agita

I second Google sketchup - amazing and free also see "Vectorworks" http://www.nemetschek.net/ good luck

Yall that are going wanna meet up at a certen place and time ? It would be nice to meet some of you. (I don't know the area, if anyone would like to suggest a place)

Shoo I'll be there. I'm from Hendersonville anyway.

http://www.sprucepinefestivals.com/blacksmith.html I don't know if anyone has posted this but.......... just curious if anyones knows about it or is going.

Wow didn't think of the daylight being the problem. I've always been indoors until now. I am outside so i'll do that. I might just do it tonight, no neighbors lol. Thanks for the consideration.

I have a large hand cranked forge in which I've just started working metal. My problem is that when I have a piece of metal in the forge I can watch the color range and it takes a normal time to heat up.,, but , I see it go from deep red to light red at normal speed. Then within a space of 10 seconds it will jump to yellow and either burn up or when I pick up the piece it falls in half. To make note I turn at a medium speed, and the metal I have used that this happens with are : 1" rebar,, , , .5" cold roll,, , , 1"x2" key stock. Normal coal from local bks store. I've had a few forges in the past but, never had metal heat up this fast. Thanks in advance.

Yes its been a while. I haven't been in the position to forge in a while. Didn't know they stopped I even thought about going up there in a few Wednesdays. Thanks

DL, I'm in Hendersonville and the guild names I do not know, I wasn't a member but only attended meetings. Its been a while now and I'm excited to be getting back into it. we used to meet the 2nd Wednesday of each month we used to meet in candler at cane & sons. and the 3rd Thursday in canton. (if I don't have those backwards). nice to know another person who is in the area.

Hi, yep bought it up there Saturday. I have a few other older forges that don't run as well and I've been looking for a better solution for a while. It runs beautifully, I just wanted to know a little more about it. I've seen a lot of forges (not as much as you guys of coarse) But I haven't seen one like this before. I love it to death honestly. Just wanted to know the history behind it. Thanks for the info, really. Anyway @Dragons lair: what did you think of it? I really didn't intend on buying it but I got the opportunity anyway. The blower runs like a top. And besides the nest of bees in the ash dump everything is awesome. OHH, and you can tell where there were two cracks that were welded (If you look at the first pic you can kinda see them above the first air slot on the side.) Think that will hurt anything? One more thing, would lining it with firebrick help the sidewall problem?

Hi I wonder if anyone here could direct me in finding documentation on a unmarked forge with a well marked blower seemingly made for it. http://tinypic.com/r/j5e8ue/4 the makings it has are http://tinypic.com/r/9rnd3m/4 The fan Has large words LANCASTER on one side, as well as "Champion Geared Forge Lancaster PA" elsewhere "Lancaster geared blower #40" on the underside of the hood there are letter number combo of F0212 (890) !!!where the last 3 can barely be made out so I don't know if thats what they are!!! Just wondering if anyone would know its history. A advertisement would be awesome. Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi, I',m a novice blacksmith form Western NC. I collect axes and other old tools. I have took formal classes on smiting as well as attended local guild meetings... after a lul I have finally proquered a forge an am looking for a community such as yours. Thanks