Agita

30 weight, non detergent. Pick up some rotella at tractor supply. works very well, From experience don't use Lucas Oil. Just putting the handle at the 12 o'clock position will self rotate 2 full revolutions from enertia. With Lucas it wouldn't move.

First: Sorry for the double post. GOOD NEWS, I'm apparently an blatant Idiot. I got frustrated saturday and fixed my forge on accident. I had a fire going, had limited the area into about a 4" square with good fire but it still didn't want to heat correctly. I got mad and pulled out everything except the burning coal, spread out the hot coals over 18" or so of the air box and dumped a bit of coke over top. Entire thing opened up and it worked like a charm............... Got good heat, it only took 30 or so seconds to heat 10"or so of 1"round mild steel to yellow. 5 or 10 seconds to bring the heat back to the same level from cherry red. Simply amazing airflow. But if you covered up 4" of the face the blast disappears. I've spent the better portion 2 months choking the fire. I built a shield that blocks smoke from entering the blower; it works well. The only complaint now is that it looks like it will eat fuel and the smoke doesn't want to go up the chimney. What a fool I am for limiting the size of the fire. When I started I had 50% blocked and just got smaller. Anyway problem fixed. Thanks for your suggestions!

Gonna try this, I've made leaves before but not like that. Very nice work!!!

mmmmmm, I might keep it around or try to use it like above, otherwise It will sit in my future shop as a nice forge beside others. I have many blowers. And a few forges. I was hoping for this one to be a nice option to avoid a brick and mortar forge. I'll probably try to find a house of my own in a year or so and I'd rather wait for permanence to go all out. I'll just collect toys for now :D :D :D :D I have this inside a shop now. nice chimney hooked up. I just can't do that easily with a rivet forge. :( Sill gonna try though. I'm stubborn :rolleyes: *****edit******note****** ---> I don't want to destroy or hurt the forge , So no permanent mods.

WEEEEELL ,, I forgot to get the numbers. I got home last night around 3am. That's what I get for having friends. *Forgot to mention I can burn up or melt metal easily. (I get frustrated and leave it in for a while and crank hard. I've had mild steel burn up like fireworks or fall in half and splatter on the rocks((I do know melting metal btw))) ^ ^ ^ ^ now what sense does that make. Not a good heat but will burn up the metal? Just say 10 or so seconds after checking and having a dull red or half light red color. 10 seconds later of cranking, pull it out burning. :angry: @ThomasPowers & @HWooldridge ~~~ Heat treating eh? Like it a bunch,... even though its not practical to use normally. @Backwoods Blacksmith & @RidgewayForge ~~~ I will block up the back of the air slots to concentrate the air blast and pile up the coal. Sounds like a good Idea. Seems to be a common and sensible idea to try. @brian.pierson ~~~ The bottom of the forge where he blower attaches is a solid plate of cast iron with a 4" or 5" hole where the blower tube attaches. The air simply comes through a hole, a cast iron box with 3 long slots sits on top of the hole and air filters through that. The coal in turn is placed on top of the slot box and rises up through a chimney in the rear. (although half the smoke comes from around the hinging lid you see). So it would be hard to change much anything without modification to the original mounts. I've already had to hunt down a hard to find bolt that was broken as well as taping a 1/2" round hole through the cast iron side. (Cleaning out 1000+ year old rusted threads) I also intend to place a shield to absolve the recycled smoke/gaseous problem. As well as figuring a way to connect a new electric blower (I still need parts for) :lol: Anyone know where a original buffalo forge rheostat for a 2E blower would be sitting?

I'll have to look up the patent numbers when I get home. Around here (WNC) #40 blowers are the most common thing. I have one on a rivet forge, and every other on I see at sales or fleamarkets is a #40. Never thought of looking up the number before. That's a good Idea.

Its marked Lancaster Forge and Blower Co, NO40, Lancaster PA, and a bunch of patent numbers. The top of the forge hood is marked Made in USA.

Would you happen to know what that task might have been? I've never seen a forge like it. (I don't want to modify it or harm it , Its just too pretty to sit unused though :( )

I have just got a new electric blower I want to try to hook up to it. Maybe it would help the recycled gasses issue. I'll also try to reposition the piece being worked on. I've made it a point to try to keep it in the exact heart. I'll limit the air too, hopefully later on tonight.

Reeeeally thinking of putting a shield up to block smoke a and flame form entering the fan's air intake. (total thing weighs ~500#)

I have a strange "rivet forge" that doesn't use a clinker breaker or tuyere like a normal forge. Long story short My smaller champion farm forge takes no time at all to heat up a piece of key stock, but my larger forge takes forever. This is surprising because it puts out so much heat I need a pair of welding gloves just to take the steel out with tongs. Just to be clear, I have the steel in the heart of the fire. It seems to lose heat quicker than with my other forge after I take it out. Same coal and/or coke. Enough airflow to put out a 48" flame from the crack in the door. One of the only things that worries me is that the blower is mounted in a way that it sucks in a lot of heat and smoke. Also I have put some firebrick inside to limit the giant inner space (none of the airflow is blocked, only the width is limited) Some of the pictures I have are from when I first got it, I'm just using them to show the setup and strange air vent system it has in place. The air blows through a 4" hole into what I will call a "slot box". There is a ash dump at the base of the pseudo tuyere. Don't think it would matter but I did remove the rust and have painted it inside and out with 4000 degree paint. Any ideas or help would be much appreciated. (or identity of the forge itself!!!!!) :D :lol:

This will be a welcome addition to my forge. Hopefully it will keep me from cranking as much. Got it running shortly after these pics were taken. Motor is marked Buffalo Forge and Blower Co. Feb,13,1913. AC or DC power, 20,30,50,or 60 phase. Rated to same as rheostat.

I've seen the pexto tables that are sold, I've bid on them multiple times on ebay. But I didn't want to throw that kind of money at them. I'll check out armourarchive.org. Thanks Mr. Powers.

I have some large pexto stakes that will not fit my anvil. (120# baby) Anyone have a good Idea on a way to mount it securly for work? I thought of augering a hole in a stump, putting a metal plate over it and filing a square hole in the plate. Ideas?

LOL George Btw, does anyone know where to find a list of buffalo products where i can look at more infor about my new blower?

Wow, do take care...If you need somewhere to store your anvils I'll take good care of them. ;) on the other note. DARN!!! I was hoping to be able to do that. The only thing I've seen hooked up to dc like that now is a 100hp motor on 880v system. I thought scene it was so old it might work out.

I love you guys, Its Data plate says "Will work on either direct current or alternating current. 25-40-50-60 Cycles. Voltage same as rheostat which must always be used with motor" Forgive the ignorance of someone my age, but does that mean that I could hook it up to my jeep that puts out 6v ?

I was going to gut it and replace the brushes and bushings. Repaint it AND use it. I could care less about your patina. I was told not to mess with that old of an electric motor.

In ya'lls opinion, would fully restoring this (and using it) destroy its value?

I've just picked up a Buffalo blower, Model no2E. It has a Buffalo Forge electric motor attached to it dated feb 13 1918. Looks like It was last used around that time too. I decided to clean it up a bit. De-greased it and color came through. A brilliant green. .....I've seen this green before. I have a never used 4" flatter that I cleaned to find the same color. The same story with some atha and random RR hot cuts, hole punches. All the same color green? Is this a historical thing I've missed? Most all of these items are 60+ years old. And I expect no one has just up and decided to color these in modern times. (then used them to the point that the color faded) Penny for your thoughts.

Just jumping in to say how epic this thread is. Thanks for sharing.

I was planning on heading down for this one. Anyone from the Western North Carolina region gonna go? Anyone that has gone before suggest taking the classes? Also what days are the best to go? thanks

.

Very nice indeed. I second giving you credit. Looks like lots of love for your hinges