WmHorus

Looks good, I'll show you the one I will be working on after I get more propane since I am out, I am using wagon wheel Iron for the handle and a cable damascus blade.

kinda looks like a rock hammer to me...

I've often thought about the rocks in and about Kautz Creek in Mt Rainier National Park since they are all rust colored.

heya KB I was asked to make one of those lately myself once I get it roughed out Ill show some pics.

Alot of he stories you hear about quenching with water from some rare stream or by the light of the moon are just plain hogwash. Its done in order to mystify the process B) . Though the one about quenching in the blood of a virgin makes me.... :D :lol:

The prices have been a contested issue within the NWBA for quite a while, lots of arguments over it. One of the reasons I never go is I cant afford to pay to look around let alone drive the distance to it.

lol, ya having flying flux hit you in tender places while using the little giant is fun....

We are actually considering a program change that might help us out alot since, the book for this one is a pain to understand.

I actually have the material sciences class next door to my class. checking a chunk of damascus I was working on last weekend for cracks and whatnot using penetrant and x'rays. Should have the report this afternoon from them, just have fun doing it is what I think, learn the fancy patterns and stuff after you can get your welds perfected.

Thank you Richard, appreciate that.....

LOL if we knew how to use the dang machine

The class they offer is 3 days and only for 4 students....they said they could fit 5 but the pricing they seemed pretty firm on. Its sad but, I am looking at a couple local places that might take my instructor and I in and give us a hands on lesson, since they gave us Cam2 software.

I'm glad i dont follow things to closely anymore.....less stress

ya right out the window since its a paperweight at he moment. but can tdo that the thing costs to much dang money

Ya i have been meaning to go there and ask as well, have had 2 different folks thus far say they use software that i not the stuff that came with the arm...so not sure what to make of that....

are u from Coquille Oregon?

Well its worth a try I also put out a call on cnczone to see if I can find something there

We got a Faro arm last winter here at school and the 2 people who took the class are gone and really thought the machine is messed up and could not use it on thier own. The cost for getting someone from Faro up here to teach another class is 7300 bucks. I am hoping to find someone here in the local area who knows how to use one and will be kind enough to show me how so I can at least teach the basics to others....I am trying to follow the instruction manual we have but it is very confusing. I need some help.....

I have some spare 1 inch here at the house cut into lengths if you want some.....heck I even have some ready to go billets if you have a mind for that....Drop me a note if you wanna come over my way and get it

I actually bought plastic ones from Harbor freight, look up vibration free link belt.

Thanks for the words guys, Dave once I get it going, one of my first tasks is to take some 3 inch cable.....hhehhehe I can do 2 inch I wanna try three for wider cable billets

Thanks, I need 2 more bags of refractory I am guessing since I am taking the ID to 14

So I am finally after over a year of thought and preparation to the point of lining a new forge to replace the one I burned a hole or 2 in. This one is a forced gas forge 16 inches in diameter with 1/4 inch walls and 2 feet tall. It is a vertical one, with 5 inch square openings, and removable lid and bottom. This is so I can also close the opening up and do some crucible melts as well. I am planning on 2 inch thick Mizzou walls and the lid and bottom as well will be the same. I bought 1 bag of castable already but think I will need a 2nd to get it done. The top and Bottom were cut out on a waterjet and the welding was done by a guy in the welding class down the building from me so.......one hint remember to measure the OD twice before you cut...I had the OD from the old forge in my mind he first time I cut and well it ended with those parts making the bottom plate on the stand. And the other was traded for the rebar I used on the inside, after I cut a design out on the top for the guy. So without further ado....the pics....

I cant do a thing but chuckle about this.......

might just have been easier to buy the one they were selling