John McPherson

You misunderstand me, cowboy was being used as an epithet in this case. We were in North Carolina, and the only cows in sight were shaggy Highland cattle. I mean that they consider all of us "Colonials" to be cowboys: IE, swaggering rednecks, ruffians, rubes, uncivilized knuckle draggers to be sneered at for even **wanting** to have the right to carry a simple pocketknife, much less a (Horrors!) pistol. They seem to see the Right to Bear Arms as a proof of our being a primitive culture, and not of our independent nature. They have given up even the right to self defense in the home. Once upon a time, the sun never set on the mighty British Empire. Now, we are on that same slippery slope.

He said 'beginner', 'buzz box', and 'torch cut by a friend'. So I made a few assumptions based on that. Yeah, I should know better. Hand torch cutting may add some carbon to the cut surface. It will leave a ragged, oxidized edge with dingleberries (technical term). He did not say anything about owning or knowing how to use a grinder, or access to a fully equipped fab shop with a CNC plasma table, etc. I did not assault him with terms like root gap, land, bevel angle or polarity. Metallurgically speaking, there are two reasons to start with a low alloy rod like E60XX. One, it does a better job of cleaning off dirty, torch cut metal and floating the crud off in the flux. Two, the strength difference between mild and 60 series is close. The resulting metal in the weld puddle with be an alloy somewhere between the base metal and the rod. More likely to be flexible than the resulting union between scrap yard mystery metal and a high alloy/low hydrogen rod, such as E7018. Welding everything with 7018 does not make you a better welder, anymore than playing 18 holes with one club makes you a better golfer. Heck, gas welding it with RG45 would be slow, but plenty strong and flexible, but these young whippersnappers do not appreciate how good they have it. Why, back in my day...Just because I was born under a flag with 48 stars. Mumble, mumble. I'm not a old phart, I'm Institutional Memory.

"Also what happens with the scotty carrying a dirk in his sock? Maybe they could just carry a teaspoon in their sock now. A blunt teaspoon at that!" I can tell that you have not been there, Oh, they are so many decades past that point in the UK. Pipers, even those currently serving in official military bands, tattoo a sgian on their calf, or just do without. Showing up in public with a sgian in your sock, much less a dirk on your belt, will get you arrested PDQ. There, it is under glass, wired securely to the wall, or brought out only in private settings. First time Honored Guests to Highland Games on this side of the pond always are stunned by the amount of sharp and pointy being carried, even by 'gasp' ladies. "Cowboys" they say, whilst chain smoking in front of the No Smoking sign, ankle deep in straw. Then, they are amazed that having a paragraph of titles after their name does not exempt them from the rules here. Yes, I have spoken sharply to Peers of the Realm, in my duties as Head of Security. It was fun.

OK, it looks like I got some 'splaining to do here. I teach a little of everything at a large CC welding program: Short Arc, Pulse & Spray Arc MIG, Flux core, TIG, Oxy-Acetylene, Stick, thermal and mechanical cutting processes, you name it. I am also an AWS Certified Welding Inspector. I have seen a lot of folks with skill levels ranging from zero to incredible weld (or attempt to weld) a lot of stuff. And as a CWI and teacher, I have inspected, destroyed and graded everything from autobody sheet metal to 1" thick bridge plate samples. I am painfully aware of the possible shortcomings of welders and filler metals. First rule of welding is match the filler rod to the metal, and the skill of the user. He says he is learning, using a stick welder on mild plate (35-50Kpsi), so the closest fit would be E60XX. Cheap, needs less amps from a home welder, flexible under stress, adequate for the job at hand, leftovers need no special storage. E7018 is a wonderful rod +++ if +++ you keep it in a rod oven. Most do not, and it can develop hydrogen cracking at a later date.It is also prone to thermal quenchcracking, like when you put water in a firepot. I have seen quenched/poorly stored 7018 welds break plenty of times. Now if you really want to weld steam or oil pipe, I suggest E7010 or E8010, followed by E8018 or higher. Call me when the X-rays are done.

Any steel rod will hold up to the heat of a fire pot. You would have to braze or solder it to have it fall apart. (Oh, the hilarity!) That being said, 6010/6011 is a high penetration fast-freeze rod which will bridge gaps. That makes it useful for poor fit-up. (Uwanna grind or uwanna weld?) And it does well on rusty/dirty/flame cut edges. It requires no special storage, you can leave it on a shelf or behind the seat of your pickup for years, and it will work just fine. That's why it got the nickname "farmer rod", it is what holds most rural projects together. Yes, it spatters, and the slag is a PITA to clean up without a wire bush mounted in a grinder, and it leaves a rough texture. So what! This is going to be hidden under a layer of soot and ash soon anyway. If you just have to make it pretty, or you want the practice, 7018 can make a lovely fill and cover pass weld, and the slag should chip easily. But, it requires special storage after the can is opened, or the welds made are prone to cracking. If you dump water in your hot fire pot, 7018 may quench crack anyway due to the higher carbon content.

<Question for the more enlightened,What is a "blunt wrap"? Those were being sold at that shop too.> From Wikipedia <<A "blunt" may also refer to a marijuana cigar where the wrapping is a tobacco product. The leaf of a spiral wrapped cigar is moistened (usually with saliva) and removed. The cigar is then cut and the tobacco is removed. The marijuana is then rolled in the paper and the leaf is hand rolled back on to the cigar. An alternative method is to cut the cigar length-wise (including the leaf) and use the paper and leaf as a wrap for the marijuana.>> I am also a refugee from the oil patch. Early 1981 oilfield jobs were everywhere, and I could support a wife in grad school and a child in daycare in Wichita. One year later, zilch, and I had to move back east and work in the family business. There used to be a sign or bumper sticker that read "Lord, let there be one more boom, and this time I promise not to pi$$ it all away" Fast forward. So now I teach welding part time at a community college and hope that budget cuts don't kill even that. But it is honest work where age and experience count, and I seem to have a flair for it.

Irontanner, the guy in Pageland, SC is a dealer/collector, and has posted that same ad every week or so for the past year. Don't expect bargains or gifts from dealers. Phil K. posted a link in another thread that I find useful. Craigslist search tool http://www.craiglook.com/ will let you search 20-250 miles of any zip code, or nationwide. Try typing anvil, post vise, or blacksmith, and you will find dozens of ads for anvils closer to you, 6 from one guy in Asheville. Western NC, TN, KY, VA, and Ohio are the Promised Land of anvil hunters. Put a want ad on Craigslist, look at auctions in your area. I ran into the dealer I bought my first real anvil from at an auction, while bidding on a forge. He was wearing a gold anvil necklace and had signs on the front and back of his truck that said "I buy anvils". Year later at another auction, I helped him load some vises and the anvil he bought, and he gave the plate welding table that was under the vises. Mix, mingle, tell everyone you meet that you are looking. Put a cardboard sign and phone # in your truck window, everyone in the parking lot will read it. Heck, wear a cardboard sign around your neck if you have too. About half the time I demo at a museum, somebody comes up and wants to sell me their anvil at home "out back, jest settin' in the shed". Without my even asking. Try the farm and tractor shows too. There have to be some near you. There is an annual event in central NC at Denton Farm Park 4th of July weekend. Big auction Saturday morning, plus dealers under the trees with every sort of rusty junk, er, ah, I mean priceless an-teeks for sale. I have seen tandem axle trailers loaded with anvils, post vises, forges, etc. If you want it and the price is right, put your money down quick. I bought a post vise off the truck before the guy unloaded it. Three people tried to buy it off my shoulder before I got to the front gate, headed to the parking lot. I could have doubled my money in the first half hour. Blacksmiths guilds have events with tailgating, I have seldom gone to one where there was not somebody with an anvil to sell. Yesteryear Forge is having a big event outside Richmond, VA June 19th. If you don't know how to look for them, just ask.

Horrible Freight and DeTractor Supply 7 to 9 inch grinders are exactly the same, just different colors of plastic and paint. The Kawasaki, McCullough and Cummins names in hand tools means nothing, they are chinese tools sold thru Costco, Sams Club, flea markets and who knows who else. It seems someone found a loophole in trademark law, and exploits the gullable. Walking thru Home Despot looking at 4.5" grinders this week, everthing under $150 now seems to be made in china. My Black Friday 2-pack chinese Dewalts are noisy, but have held up for a year now, and are about twice the amps and torque of any other <$50 grinders that I have seen. My advise: buy based on amps, then on name brand. And only loans tools that you never expect to see again.

Both Lincoln and Miller sell 115 volt units that run off of any US standard household plugs and heavy gauge extention cords (the 140's) and 230 volt units that need dryer type outlets and special extention cords.(the 180's). With the 180's, you are tied to a shop, or you need a decent sized portable generator/welder. Of course, you could start with one of the little MIG units, and then buy a G/W for stick welding, they do compliment each other. Both types will run .025" gas-shielded solid wire or .035" flux core wire interchangably with a little reconfiguring, which takes about 5-10 minutes with practice. The 180's will also run .045 flux core. 140's have a mid-range duty cycle of 20% (@90A/20V). 180's have a mid-range duty cycle of 30% (@130A/20V), but that mid-range is the 140's high end. Pushed to the max, the 140's duty cycle drops to about 5-10%. That means you can only weld wide open for 30 seconds, and then it has to cool for 9 1/2 minutes, or you will cook the innards (technican term). Both are considered to be autobody, sheet metal or tack welders, not meant for continuous heavy use. Neither will do high end stuff like Pulse or Spray Arc. But they will accept a spool gun to do aluminum welding. Does this help, or just muddy the waters?

Good looking shovel. But that is a figure eight knot, reef knot is another name for a square knot. I have a bracelet that I made with a square knot in the center, tails tapering off and forge welded together. the once and future Scoutmaster of Troop 147, John

Take...TO...the...scrap...yard??? I dumpster dive to get more stuff, and keep it FROM the scrap yard.

One thing to consider is the wide availabilty of filler metals in stick rods. You can get rods, in various sizes, in things that can not even be made into wire for MIG. One example is cast iron fill rods. And you can get them in small amounts, as low as one pound. Another point is the size range of rods, from 1/16" to 3/8". Changing wire size means changing tips, guides, rollers, and sometimes liners in MIG. Your only size limitation in stick is the machine and stinger amp rating and jaw opening. Spin the dial, change a rod, get to work. Plus, on a machine with an AC setting, you can weld magnetized structures such as conveyors that have terrible arc blow on DC.

A little more info, and pictures of the sides and bottom would help. Inspection marks and serial nembers are sometimes found on the feet. Square holes in the sides are for porter bars, used to handle the anvil while hot, found unly on wrought iron anvils. The short horn, lack of pritchel hole, and weight system indicate an early to mid 1800's english import. If there is a slight ridge that you can feel at the bottom of the horn, Postman sez it's probably a Mousehole.

Why laddie, do ya mean to tell me you're not wearing one now??? For shame! You will never KNOW the meaning of sex object until you wear one in public for the first time. McPherson Hunting for state occasions, black canvas Utilikilt for forging. Carpenter bluejeans for work, so the ladies will keep their hands off me. ;>)

The Library of Congress has tons of images online, and a search feature. Hi Bruce, my wife is a Hylton, from Floyd County, Virginia.

The characteristic ring comes from the crystal structure of the metals. Don't believe me? Compare two identical pieces of steel, one annealed and one quenched. Really low carbon steel like 1008 or 1018 needs to have the corners quenched in Gunter's SuperQuench to give a loud ring. Cowbells have to be immersed if made of mild steel. Higher carbon/higher alloy steels like springs and hay rake teeth usually do fine without a quench, and may shatter in SQ. The way you suspend the bell matters too. Some folks pinch out the top corner and punch a small hole to pass a wire thru, others just use a wire or leather thong with an open loop, or pass the rod thru a washer before scrolling the ends. Anything that absorbs the vibrations dampens the ring.

There is a guy, Jeremy K I think, who posted a pineapple and some of the steps in the photo gallery at Far West Forge texturing done with a tool made from a hex wrench, crown done in pieces and attached. Fairly labor intensive, maybe cost prohibitive as a tourist trinket, but would make a good high-end piece. Link corrected, photos added

Do not overlook used/broken pieces of shovel and axe handles. They are often free for the asking at construction sites and tool rental companies, along with usable steel such as dull or broken circular saw blades and pavement breaker bits. Machinery pallets are often made from whatever local wood is available cheaply. I have seen them made from all kinds of north american and now asian hardwoods.My friend got some pallet boards that we think are some sort of teak that he is making small boxes from. You can easily get a hammer handle length cut from between the nail holes, and the wood is usually already dry.

Try and call Vega Metals in Durham and ask where they get their coal. Enrique Vega is a regular on some of the art forums, and has a huge production shop.

Did a quick Google image search, came up with a few sites that might help you. http://www.brosamersbells.com www.oxtontower.org.uk/bells.htm www.albion.edu/math/kcgcr/ www.brinkley-bells.org.uk/tower.html www.all-saints-oving.org.uk/bells.htm www.websbyjill.com/stlukephotoalbum.htm

Take one surplus steel GI ammo can with gasket (or similar container), insert grubby parts, cover with kerosene, diesel or non-flammable liquid of choice. Bungee securely in back of pickup. Drive to work for a week or so. Repeat as needed. Potholes, curves, grades, gravel roads and RR crossings improve efficiency. Works great on tractor parts, blower gears, etc.

Organizations exist for many reasons, and people join them, and stay with them, for their own reasons. If I do not feel like I am getting good value from my dues, I drop out. ABANA is one of those. The Hammers Blow was the only thing I felt was worth keeping, and I can buy those from the web site for a few bucks. The NC state affiliate was much cheaper, and has been a continuing source of friends, ideas, and demo's. I have met a few jerks in the ABS, but many more decent guys who will answer a question or help out when you hit a snag. Still an Apprentice myself. As for classes, some are worthwhile, some are not. I have found that the ability to teach a subject has less to do with how well you understand a subject, and more to do with how well you communicate with others, how well you understand your students, and the intensity of your desire to share your love of the subject. Oh, by the way, since he did not fill out his profile, I will tell you who JPH is ---Dr. Jim Hrisoulas, noted author, and (IMHO) one of the ten most influential men in custom bladesmithing in the last quarter century. Look up Salamander Armory sometime. PS: When is the fourth book due to be published, Grand High Poobah? :roll: edit: link added

Since before there was an internet, I have been called The Troll, my son's nickname is Troll Jr. My shop, wherever it may be at any given moment, is Trollworks Forge, a division of Celtic Moon Farm. Of course, it used to be The Woodwrongs Shop...... :? Why Troll you ask? Because you have not seen me. 5'10" + 280lbs + shaved head + *sparkling personality* = Troll. :roll: