Paragon

I know nothing about them but.. Wouldn't it matter on the tpi (threads per inch) of the screw? The more travel per rotation (courser the threads = smaller tpi) the less force you will get as opposed to a press with finer threads (less travel per rotation)

If you look at pictures.. the distance of press travel on a rotation will be the distance from one thread to the next.. I'l say from center of the thread to the next. You can look at pics and get a relative idea from that.

Forgot about this thread..

This followed me home a few weeks ago.. I only say followed cause it was in my trunk. No clue what it was used for. Head appears to have "CRAMP" stamped on it. Handle was around 26" long. I need to recut the handle cause it was not holding the head tight and was split in a few spots. Probably make it 15"



Also happened on a new Hobart Acetylene/LP regulator for $25. Just need a hose and it should make for a nice propane regulator for the forge I don't have.

If I had the money, I would opt for a small horizontal band saw. It is nice to set it, walk away and come back to cut steel.

I tried this on a compound miter saw last year. I'm not sure what the RPM was but the stock wood was had 6k max so I got a metal chop saw wheel (Dewalt) 10" and it seemed OK for smaller stock.. but I think it would overheat too much on larger stock like 2" square tubing.. even 3/4 or 1" seemed to tax it too much. I wasn't impressed with it much. Also, be aware that the metal dust from cutting will get into every spot on the saw. I had to spend an hour trying to get the saw to rotate to do a miter. The clearances were not made to be caked with metal dust.
Also, the blade will get chips on the edge and will have a tendency to bounce off the steel. Constant pressure helps but I think it heats the steel on thicker walls. 3/8 solid square 1018 was hard to cut. 1/2" .065 wall was fine. 3/4 .065 was ok.. up from there was questionable.

After all that, I bought a Ryobi angle grinder and some cutoff blades. I needed a grinder. It is a nice kit.
It is the cheaper $40ish 4.5" You will need backing flange for use with cutoff wheels. It is similar to THIS They may have changed the design. They had it with the grinders at HD. Comes on a card. Mine looks like THIS

This works a ton better and cuts faster and cleaner than the makeshift chop saws. You figure a thinner blade spinning twice as fast. You just have to get used to it and to extra marking to get your cuts a square as possible. They are about on par with the cuts from the chop saw blade. I have not had to cut any of the 3/8" 1018 yet so I don't know how it is. I would expect it to be easier as well.

Search.. There were a few links in a post about this.

Wow.. nice work. That is a lot of joist hangers to make!

What are y'all wearing to go over prescription glasses? I have yet to find a set of safety glasses that fit properly over them with room to spare so I don't have to worry about scratching my prescriptions.

I usually wear splash goggles when grinding and cutting as they are the only thing that seem to fit OK (still sit up against the glasses on the outer edges)

My welding goggles don't seem to be too bad.. but obviously too dark for regular work.

Figured I would bring this back to the top.

Good idea to check your grinding wheels by holding them on your finger through the hold and tapping them.

I worked/ran the machine shop at college and I can tell you, it is scary what you see in there from people going through engineering classes. (including the ever popular person running the drill on reverse and standing there a minute wondering why it isn't cutting)

Drill presses: I have seen people drilling on large drill presses (I'm talking the table being 4 foot square) and not holding what they are drilling. Even on smaller presses. Or not using a vice to hold it. I would tell them to hold it.. they would put a finger on it. :mad: Half the time I had to yell at them to get it through their head.

I have seen some large vises get thrown off tables 6 feet when the bit grabs from incorrect speed and improper usages.

If you have a vertical mill, always remember to NEVER leave the wrench on the shaft.. One person did (unfortunately I was not there to see it) and I guess the shaft ended up shooting up and hitting the ceiling from what I was told (although I have my doubts it was that spectacular). Same goes for chuck keys on drill presses and lathes. You can get safety keys that are spring loaded and will pop out on their own if left in the hole.

A cutoff wheel from a dremel will sting with it shatters.. one from a 4" grinder will not feel good. I have yet to have one shatter but am thinking of getting a full face shield. I usually use safety gogles and hearing protection.

I always recommend to use vise grips when using belt grinders and wheels especially small parts. This is from first hand experience one time when I was in a hurry and not thinking (That won't happen again.. I have a nice scar to remind myself)

Safety glasses.. anything ANSI z87 should work.

Always remember there is no excuse to be in such a hurry to not consider your own and others' safety first.

I would see about making it so the spring doesn't cross the push rod.. Might make it a tad quieter. Also, having it crossed may cause wear on that spring and cause it to break. Just a thought. I may be overthinking it too much.

I assume you would want to soak the chain to get any dirt and grease out of the joints? :confused:

Anchor? Just kidding

I think a cool letter opener and if he is having clients at his office, something like a card holder. Could also make a desk organizer with built in card holder to hold pens and outgoing mail.

what kind of office? Aside from the usual card holder, I'll have to think about it. You probably want to make something that will be used.

Welcome to the forum.. I see this is your first post.

First off.. this should be in the Blacksmithing forum.

Also, best thing to do is use the search feature of the forum as there are already threads with information on making chain. Even a link to youtube for a video.

I think in the BP here or anvilfire there are instructions how to make hinges..

You can buy Liquid Bandaid which is similar to super glue. It stays flexible so it will stay on. I have never used it though. I always clot quickly. If I have a good bleeder, I just hold a paper towel on it with pressure until it stops.

Neat design.

It will make it look like it is going fast when it is not even on.

You could also use a fork design to straighten it some after heating of course. I would think.. but if you dont have a fork. hammering should work.

If you can make your own, the main cost will be refractory and a propane regulator.

Making Charcoal is just the burning of wood with little oxygen available. Nothing fancy is needed from what I have read. You can dig a hold in the yard, fill it with wood, start it on fire and cover it over. Mass production is done in large piles of wood and covered with dirt or sod after starting the center on fire.

It is probably the oxidation. Once you are done forgins, let it cool down and clean the piece with wire brush/wheel then heat it and then apply the wax. With the low heat needed for the wax application, you shouldn't have any issues with oxidation. Doing this, I didn't have any issues with coloration.

All I wanted was an empty freon or helium tank to make a forge out of. Might have to break down and just buy one.

I got a can of Redbull, gas card, and some cash. Exciting Christmas.

Learned the basics of MIG and TIG while working in the machine shop at college. Never used TIG that much so I never got good at it. The main thing I learned on MIG is to go slow so ya get a nice bead.

Taught myself last year (still teaching) how to OA weld. Havn't had the need to cut anything with it yet. Bought the OA kit cause I wanted to braze my own bike frames.. havn't gotten around to that, yet so in the meantime, I build things and used it to forge some items for last christmas.

:confused: Just cut the wax. If you have to, take a thin wire or better an old knife and heat it up to cut right through it.

I think the natural gas line would probably be too low pressure to do any good.
What kind of basement are we talking about?