Paragon

Hello. Welcome!  I'm in the process of figuring out what to make still.  I'm going with a simple IFB forge for now.

You can technically make the burner head any size but you will want to keep the the number out outlets the same as the standard 3x6.  I don't know how a narrow and longer one will work (like 2 rows of holes but 9" long instead of 3 rows and 6") as it will depend how the internal baffling is.  If you go in from the side instead of directly behind, may not need baffle (I don't think PineRidge uses a baffle like these) but you may have to experiment.. but why change something that work well for what you are doing?

For air supply, 2 or 2.5" from what I see.  WayneCoe plans are for 2".  Some that can be purchased are either 2 or 2.5" inlet.  Smaller will just be too restrictive.  There are a few that have used PVC from blower to the gate valve for adjustment.  I don't know if you can get a good PCV gate valve so that will be black pipe from there on for ease of making a gas inlet.  Could technically do PVC with thread ends in-between the gas inlet and gate but iron pipe will be stronger.  There was a forge just posted that has all the bells and whistles and used some PVC but looked like it was actually 3" or larger from the blower.. which is likely better for flow to even out.  .. DWH's build in this section.

8 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

I'm not sure a blown burner would really need a diffuser or baffle either if the fuel/air mixture was introduced that way.  I haven't tried it so I don't really know though. 

I don't think PineRidge burners have a air baffle to spread the mix in the plenum box..  What they call a baffle is just what the metering tubes stick into so basically the back of the casting in these home brewed burners. 

14 hours ago, Frosty said:

Why do you assume a gun burner produces a hotter fire than a naturally aspirated one? I've been using both for years and there isn't really a difference except maybe it's easier to make a gun burn hotter. You have to tune a naturally aspirated burner properly which takes more time, care and a better eye. It's not a big deal, just a little more hassle.

I guess it should be the same if the same flame type (neutral/ox/carb) and flow rate of fuel.  It would be easier to adjust a blown to whatever mix you require.

.. I so like the easy quote adding on this forum

Thanks guys.  Good to hear.   I guess casting isn't really all that much work.  The most work seems to be making the steel housing (plenum?).  Are you all running without an internal baffle?  Seems that is the only difference on a blown burner or is it the inlet/outlet hole size matchup that is specific for NARBs?  Just wondering if I build a NARB with baffle, would the baffle slow down the jet stream too much.. and if not, would it go as a NARB and a blown setup easily?

Impressive build.  You could have your coffee maker turn that thing on.  Fresh brew and a hot forge..

That burner is rated for a chamber over twice tthe size you have according to their site.  Very intriguing  as I was looking at the smaller one for a forge a quarter to half the rated space.  My issues may be low ceiling height (brick forge so 4.5" max).  Can you dial it down enough for regular forging heat?

That bottle pressure in a hose... no thanks.

I believe the propane is a CGA510 fitting so any welding regulator for acetylene/LP should work with that fitting.  You will see a red line after 15psi on an acetylene gauge as after that acetylene gets unstable (inside the tank it is dissolved in acetone iirc).  Should still be usable up to the max line for propane.. just don't have the tick marks for accuracy but can probably get close looking at the other end of the needle.  I would think a propane specific regulator would likely just has a full scale gauge instead of redline at 15.

I have a Hobart I got years ago for less than half cost that i will be using.  Sadly made in China.  The regs from the Victor torch set I have are also China but I think the welding style regulators are likely better quality?  You also get dual gauges so you know how much is left in the tank just by looking.

Just be sure to release the pressure off the diaphragm when done for longevity (tank off, bleed the line till gauges go to '0' and then unscrew the pressure adjuster handle till it moves freely (at least that is how it is with my Victors.. you can feel when the handle engages the diaphragm. 

Hello!   How is this NA ribbon on the noise spectrum?  Is it as quiet as a blown ribbon or only slight louder?  I live in the city and want to avoid the noise of a regular single tube venturi which I gather as being quite loud.  Have yet to be in the presence of one so I can only go by videos which is a horrible way to compare anything.

I assume they are not as efficient as a blown burner.  I do have electric in the garage so a blower is not a problem.. just a matter of finding one that fits the bill.

I have been looking at blown ribbon setups.  Seen the PineRidge burners which look nice (I don't mind paying for quality engineering and not having to mess around with casting and guesswork) but from the sound of it won't work well in a small forge or would require a lot more blower pressure for that.  Is one of these NA ribbon or like  a Giberson going to be my best bet?  This will be a hobby forge.. not a full time venture.  I just don't want to bug the neighbors with burner noise if I can avoid it.

Planning on making a basic IFB forge with some  angle iron to hold it together if needed or at least a frame for the roof to help hold the burner.  I have a box of 2300 brick 3" thick  that I plan to use as the first setup.  I will be keeping it small volume for starters.  If I need bigger I can rearrange or add more brick..   under 300cu in. to start.. likely 9x6x4.5 or smaller.  Might shrink it to 5" wide and add some length.. we will see.

Side note:  It's been over 10 years since my last post on here.. My forging started using OA torch for heat and chunk of steel for an anvil.  Made a few roses and leaves chasing the steel around the floor using what I could for fullers.  That was quite some time and have moved a few times since.  I own my first house now so I want to get back into it as a hobby but looking for an easier method for the heat.  I do have an anvil now so I don't have to chase the block of steel around the floor.

Find a local HVAC person.. perhaps they have something for flashing or can make one.

Also.. jsut out of curiosity, is it possibly to use a Wye "Y" and split the stack to do two out the roof for the capacity?

For now... this is my current anvil. I hardend the face before use, and seems to work well...

14" length of British railway rail; weight c.32lb. 'Mounted' (plonked) in a bucket of sand and constantly moving.

Not sure about this answer but it would be close enough to "exact" for me.

Fill can full.
Empty half of the water out by tilting the can to 45 deg.
Mark the half full mark
Eyeball and mark halfway between the bottom and the half full mark
Fill to that mark

Sheesh.. All I know is that they melt nicely with my #0 OA tip. AHve not tried welding yet. I don't see how you can get a small and cold enough flame with OA.

The bottom of the can will be the thickest part.. no clue as to how much thicker.

Take a look at the BP0302 Eternity Rose from metal . It uses tubing and fuller it down to get the base of the rose. You might be able to do another fuller to get the main bulb part. Perhaps if you localize heat if you have an OA torch.

Just a thought.

At least it will get you the shape. My first smithing (and only to date) was a few eternity roses. Used the OA torch for all the heating. Check my Gallery for a few pics.

Not sure on how to get the texturing to make it look more prickly.

If I ever get to building my forge, it will be gas. Easy to turn on, easy to turn off, easy to put away.

Happy birthday.. May you have many more happy years between the forge and anvil :D

I would lean towards what Thomas said.. but if there is a lot of screw left, I would cut the "box" at the crack around the whole thing and not cut through to the screw. Get rid of that part. Then go from there.

Sounds like the vice got fubar'd and was left to rust in a corner. I don't see how anything else could be holding it... without looking at it myself.

You can use some sort of bronze sleeve bearing for bushings or even steel sleeve bearings. For that matter, you could even use a few cartridge bearings and shouldn't have to worry about the pivot ever ovalizing. Might have to change the bearings/sleeves but that would depend on extent of use.

Thankfully you had saftey glasses on. Was that just compressed air line? Must have been some moisture in there..

At least it wasn't from an Ox or Acet tank... or even Prop.

What if you upset then hammer it into a beveled square hold to get the shape. Just a matter of getting the forming hole made..
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Isn't it possible to form the upset then hammer it to the shape?

Could also get some angle iron and make your own special fuller after upsetting it.

Not a cube.. don't know what I was smoking last night.. but you could still forge the double square pyramid and then weld the rods to it..

You can get ACME thraded rod from McMaster.. but if you want something that will last.. you need to remember that a 1", 2 start, 2 turn per inch rod will cost you $75 for 3 feet. The only nut I can seem to find on there that would work with that would be $62 and bronze.

You could go smaller.. but no clue on the durability of it. I suggest you keep an eye out for a used one.

Very cool! I like it. How do you plan on finishing them?

it balances well !

No way you are going to bend that without a multi-ton press. It is made to hold a car, it is a spring, and would probably snap before you are able to get it straight.

Re: that bender.. would be easier paying for a straight piece the dimensions you need.

The flux should protect the steel form scaling, shouldn't it?

My understanding of the issue with welding with propane is the rate of flame propagation. This is the measure of the velocity of the flame front through the gas.

Acetylene burns at 5900* F with oxygen at a rate of 25 feet/sec. Propane burns at 5650* F with oxygen at a rate of 12 feet/sec.

While the temperature of the combustion reaction for both gasses is similar (within a few hundred degrees) propane burns at approximately half the speed. Thus less heat is put into the metal being worked on.

It should be noted that the gas velocity at the tip must not be less than the rate of flame propagation in order to avoid flashback.

Hello, hope I don't offend by slight hijacking of this thread, but I too get excess scale, but its in my gas forge (Swan Mother). I phoned them up for advice and they sent me a new gas jet which I replaced, ( they also suggested I spend around

There are more than one tread that wind around the shaft this increases the pitch and makes the vertical travel faster than the rotational travel. This is called a 2 , 3, or 4 lead screw. A 4 lead fly press is best for blacksmithing as it gives the fastest travel.
these threads are also called multiple start threads. CNC Tech Talk - Dealing With Multiple Start Threads On Turning Centers - 02/06

2 start threads are commonly found on the screws for garage door openers and on some wood working vises. 3 and 4 starts a much less common and are a good "test" for a machinist. Remember you must be able to turn a nut to match.

If you have hot steel, all it is going to want to do is oxidize when out of the forge an in contact with the air hence the scale. The hotter the steel, the faster the reaction. It is just a natural reaction.
Keep it brushed off and work fast.

[more than you wanted to know or already know section]
This is why welders use inert gas to cover the welding area to keep the weld area clean.
OA torch welding has a protective area of CO2 from the burning of the oxygen and acetylene. Propane does not. This is why oxy-propane is not best suited for welding but can be done. The welds will not be as clean as with OA.

If you were to take a white hot (to the point of melting) piece of steel and fire a jet of oxygen on to it, you would basically cut through it because of the fast oxidation reaction. Basic principal of oxy fuel torch cutting. It becomes self sustaining if you are good and can actually turn off the fuel cause it was only used to get the steel to the correct temperature for the reaction to happen. The reaction will heat the steel enough to keep it going. .. at least that is what I have read. Have yet to to any cutting with my torch.

Are you using coal or gas?