mobility

Thanks guys, good info about paint on older items I may come across. This one has been "freshly painted" by the previous owner (can almost smell the paint still) so no lead to worry about. I didn't really like the idea of buying one that had been painted for the same reasons mentioned by Thomas but I just hit that point where I was frustrated with had to get something to get started. Anyway, thanks again guys. I'll post a pic when done.

Thanks for the replies, I'll get at it tomorrow.

Well, I've been looking for an anvil for a while now and have not had much luck. I've seen a few but they've either been $4/# or many hours away. I found this one today and although it's a bit smaller than I was hoping for I figured it would get me up and going until I get a better feel for things and figure out what I really need. It's a 100# HB. The previous owner was kind enough to give it a fresh coat of paint so the question is: What's the best way to clean it up, paint stripper, wire wheel, combination of both. I just thought it better to ask before I "have at it" and find out the something is more damaging than I thought. Might call this lttle fella "Apocalypse" since when I look at the fresh coat of paint I can hear Brando say "The horror, the horror" :)

You could try Tuckers Pottery. Still not Durham (Hwy7 & Leslie) but closer than Oakville, I just picked up some IFBs, kaowool and ITC 100 from them. Call them, because not everything is listed on the website. Tuckers

Thanks all for clarifying things. I just didn't want to have the thing together only to see refractory fall on the floor every time I open the door and have to redesign, so I can forge ahead now.

Sounds good on fitting it to the door. Any thoughts on the temperature rating is 2300 good enough?

I'm in the process of getting some materials together to build a forge and I pretty well have the body of it planned out but have some questions about the front door and how I can do it. I'd like to have the front with a smaller opening for doing most work but have the ability to open the front right up to get odd shaped or large pieces in. I've seen quite a few posted (but haven't been able to make out the details) that do this and it seems quite common but the questions I have are: If using Kaowool, what keeps it in the door, is it rigid enough that a squeeze fit will hold it, some sort of ceramic cement, small tabs on the edges? How about the temperature of the Wool? 2300 degrees seems pretty easy to come by but I've also seen 2600. Is 2300 enough if you were doing forge welding (ITC-100 coated)? Any pro or cons to using Duraboard as opposed to wool? Mark

Beautiful work on both the knife and the photography

Hello all, just thought I'd introduce myself. Name's Mark and while I'm not new to fabricating, I feel so new now that I'm looking at this forging thing:) Up to now I've been busy building parts and accessories for my other hobby, my Jeep. Now I find myself wanting to expand my horizons beyond the MIG, Arc, and plasma. So many new (and probably old) terms to learn, it's a little overwhelming, but I'm sure if I stick around I'll get a schooling. Well actually I may just lurk for a while until I learn what questions I need to ask....:confused: Cheers Mark