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I Forge Iron

ronin70

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  • Location
    Virginia, USA
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    knife making/metal working , computers , reading
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  1. ronin70

    cutlas

    Well, things are moving along , so I figured i'd ask another dumb question. If you were going to make a "spanish notch" in the ricaso of the blade, would you do it before, or after the quench and temper, I think that would add another area for it to warp and crack, but im not sure, what says you pro's I have some nice diamond wood for the grips and im attempting to find some brass for the hand guard and such. Maybe a few brass tubes to hold on the grips and a big disk shape for the handguard , sorta like a foil of sorts.
  2. So if you bring the old leaf spring up to a good non magnetic heat, bang the piece straight and then work it like any other blade it would be fine, but the "cold method" is bad juju, that I understand. As far as "mystery steel" goes, as long as it sparks fine, its ok right. any steel you get unless its straight from the maker is mystery steel until its proven otherwise.
  3. ronin70

    cutlas

    Thanks for the insight Mr Powers, good idea on the pre assembly to get things fixed before final assembly. Ive been thinking about another dirrection to take this, using the scrap 1095 I have to make the handguard and buttcap.
  4. ronin70

    cutlas

    Your most likely right, 1095 may not be the best match, but its what I have. I bought some to "tinker" with, as well as some small pieses of 1080 and 15n20 to experiment with damascus . I don't want to buy any more steel until I use what I have. Hopefully the armored orks will stay away from the house so I dont find out how really brittle a 1095 blade is ~lol~. Thanks for the insite though, maybe when I finish this and get back on track, i'll get some propper steel and have a go at it.
  5. ronin70

    cutlas

    So on a recent cruise I bought my son a small "jack sparrow" cutlas for him to play with...and recently I picked it up and its PERFECT, fits my hand like a glove, is small but cool looking and would make a great "real" project. So I used it to trace out on some 1095 I got from Aldo, and im cutting out the shape, now here are the questions: 1) can I use a router with a small round stone bit to make a fuller 2) the handle is a through tang on the tou , but I was thinking about a full tang becase im such a noob at this stuff, what do you think? 3) I was thinking about the handguards but all I have is some copper sheet, would you use this for a handguard, I know this my project, but I like other ideas. The steel is pre annealed so cutting wont be a problem, bring the whole thing up to non magnetic for the quench will be fun, but i'll burn that bridge when I get to it. Thanks.
  6. Steve, I wasnt trying to post invalid info, just info on the quarter mokume and of copper in general, I only have experience with steel so that is what I was refering to in relation to the annealing process and the hardening of copper, sorry if I mislead anyone in that.
  7. Copper from what ive read, and experienced is a better cold worked metal. I usually heat till dull red, quench, then work untill it is hard again. Unlike other metals copper is annealed when quenched instead of hardened. I have only had experience with quarter mokume with about 6 quarters my max so YMMV.
  8. Thank's alot for the info, I live in Virginia BTW.I posted this before my intro because I was thinking about this stuff, and then went "oh, I didn't post an intro first, duh"
  9. Does anyone have any sources for nickel silver sheet for making Mokume, I have copper and brass is semi easy to find but ive had no luck with nickel.Thanks
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