clinton

Thanks, the drawing out was done on a 75 lb powerhammer with combo dies, I rough forge on the drawing dies them smooth it out on the flat die. I just poured new bearings on the hammer and still just getting them run in good. The hammer hits much harder now and it has amazing control. You have to keep the taper even as you go and square or it gets all out of whack in a hurry then it is hard to correct.

I also forged a couple of nails, 3 1/2 inches of 1 1/2 inch round stock gave me 16 3/4 inch nail. I plan on making a few more of these and take them to the spring conference for team striking like Tom Clark used to do

I did some last minute forging for a Christmas present. I used 5 inches of 3/4 square stock, drew it out on the powerhammer, forged the handle out with a hook to hang it on. It ended up at around 22 inches in length. Wish I had more time to make a few more, hard to decide who to give it to.

When I went to college to get my degree in Welding Technology two of the required classes were Ornamental Ironwork and Toolmaking. Taking these required courses is what started my interest in blacksmithing. Working as a metal framer pays my bills now and I do a ton of welding on the job. Having the skill has got me many jobs over the years.

My college professor was one of the founding members of the CBA and also shared a shop with E.A. Chase many years ago. He encouraged me to attend my first CBA Conference (in 2000 I think) and I have been hooked ever since.

I do use a welder on some of the items that I make but try to stick to traditional joinery when possible. Being able to fabricate tools and jigs is a part of welding that any blacksmith can benefit from.

That is a pretty slick copy of a small Hossfield bender

Thanks for clearing that up Larry H

Seems to be my life story- a day late and a dollar short

What would work best would be round stock in the diameters needed. And a lathe that has the capacity for those sizes. Chuck them up and drill a hole, with a 3 jaw chuck it will center itself, no lay-out required.

That guy sells alot of those benders, I wonder how useful they really are. I see it collecting lots of dust if it were in my shop

 I forgot to mark my calender- is the end today or did I miss it altogether?

Saw an online auction for "SM Ferrier Style Anvil" It was a 2 1/2 lb anvil sold for $253.00 plus $9.87 shipping = $105.14 / lb. I collect miniture anvils but not at that price

Kinda of hard to beat the beauty of a Trenton the horn is a work of art (some nitwit painted it)

You want to be sure the shank is forged to size so that it fits into the hole. The hole will not be a perfect square so you need to forge it to fit and mark one side indicating the position. Do not force a tool into the hardy hole this can break an anvil

I am already gone

You could sell the little "Bench top Anvil" on ebay it would prob get you $50.00 at least plus shipping. See if it will fit in a flat rate box from USPS, or find a good heavy wall box and weigh it, then calculate shipping across country using Parcel Post and base your shipping cost on that. USPS is the cheapest way to ship now I have checked all the others and they always come up lower

Possible that the pritchel was knocked off with that part of the heel? Or perhaps it is an earlier anvil that did not have one and someone drilled it up front. I see no reference to a pritchel like that in Anvils in America.

According to Anvils in America Mouseholes did have the punch marks between the numbers. Your anvil may be a William Foster or a Wilkinson.

How many handling holes are there? I see one on the bottom and one on the back side. Does it look like the pritchel was drilled in?

There may be markings on either side that can help identify it

Looks great I like the high roof. If you are required to have inspections I would get the building final inspection before installing a forge.

It does not look like a  very thick coat of paint, it could be removed with a wire brush on a small grinder. I would use a cupped knotted wheel, 30 minutes would get most of it off.

The barber chair base may be worth some good money to the right person.

I doubt that a heat gun will get an anvil hot enough to do any harm, the problem is or the problems are 1- could be lead paint. 2- uneven surface is hard to scrape

You may want to try a paint remover like Jasco. I bought a Trenton anvil 410 lbs that was used at a body shop and the owner wanted to leave it outside so to protect it he painted it with automotive paint, once with yellow then red. It took about two days to get most of it off. I used a wire brush on a 4 inch grinder, actually two different kinds a cupped wheel and also a stringer (both were the knotted type) I also used a paint stripper- put it on and it bubbles up then scrape it off.

Use a dust mask while using the wire wheel, or a respirator for fumes for the heat gun

Here's another big PW actually seems like a better deal-

http://medford.craigslist.org/tls/3471004259.html

This guy has all sorts of anvils for sale, funny thing is he does not have this one listed locally. His prices are high and he does not negotiate- there is no break in his prices from what I have seen

Here is another one in the same price range 144 lb Peddinghaus opening bid around $9.00/ lb "Buy it now" is over $10.00/ lb. He does show free shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-Antique-144-Pound-PFP-Peddinghaus-Anvil-Blacksmith-Tool-Germany-/251198776517?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7c9d24c5

Yes it does have what appears to be the "Peter Wright solid wrought patent" What I do not see are the flats on the feet that are on Peter Wright anvils. Also it should have 4 handling holes (According to Anvils in America) The handling holes would not be visible in the photos shown.

Has anyone contacted this guy for more pictures?

Glad it worked out for you

Looks like he has it chained up to the front porch, you wouldn't want someone to walk off with it now.

Some more pictures would be nice to help identify if it is what he says. Brian brings up a good point it does not look like a Peter Wright.

Stacking them would increase the cutting time it may speed up handling time. Waterjet machines move faster for thinner material or material that is easier to cut (You should see one cut Styrofoam)

Is that a boat that they have it stored in? About the best use for it is an anchor. At that price and condition I would say pass.

Keep looking

Any sheet metal pattern can be laid out using triangulation. Like Swedefiddle says use your compass or dividers to mark your bend lines. The closer the bends the smoother your cone will be