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Glenn

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Posts posted by Glenn

  1. We tell folks that YouTube has a lot of material that is misleading or incorrect.  On IForgeIron the information self corrects in a post or two so you get correct information.

    Glad you have built up enough knowledge in your data base of reading that you can recognize junk when you see it.

  2. Figure out what type hole you want to make.  Then make that punch from mild steel.   It should work for a limited punch run if you hit it 3 times, remove the punch from the hot metal and cool the punch.  This will improve your hammer skills as well as your punch making skills.  That way when you get tool steel for the punches, you will know what to do, and what shape you want the punch to be.

  3. A jig is a tool to accomplish a repeated task.  They can be simple to complex, depending on the task at hand.

    A swage block is a tool that has a variety of inside shapes that can be used when needed.  They usually consist of different size half circles, V's, half hex, and square or round holes through the body.  Each can be used as needed.  Other swage blocks have dimples, half cones, shovel impressions, etc.  The swage block can be used as an upsetting block for the end of a piece of metal.

    Many times the swage block will sit on the shop floor as a door stop or as a hard stop for a pinkie toe, until it is needed for metal working.  Then it is moved to a working height and is used for hot metal.

    Swage blocks are most often HEAVY so they can take a beating.    The blocks range in weight from a few pounds to a couple hundred pounds or more.  Just tipping over 90* can cause serious damage to body parts.  The blocks are known for finding pinch points when they are moved or repositioned.  They demand respect and attention so you do not get hurt.

  4. One of the more interesting swage stands was constructed so it could be positioned flat, or edge up, or other edge  up if it is a different dimension.  There was a goesinta attached to one corner of the stand so a 7 shaped arm could inserted and a winch attached to hoist the swage block for turning to the section you needed for the work at hand.  Attach, crank, lift, turn, and then lower into place.  

  5. To start read the READ THIS FIRST at the top of the forum page.

    Not knowing where in the world you live, it is difficult to recommend a blacksmithing group or organization near you.

    IForgeIron has sections on most forges such as solid fuel, gas, electric, and oil forges.  One of the easiest forges to make is the JABOD (just a box of dirt).    Cheap as dirt and I do suppose that you have dirt where you live (grin).  The JABOD forge works and can be configured and reconfigured to what ever you want for the project at hand.

    To start you need something to hit with (2 pound hammer) something to hit on, something to hit, and a fire to get the metal your hitting hot.  Look up A collection of improvised anvils and TPAAAT - Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique.  Mild steel is a good metal to learn with.  You can find metal as scrap behind many stores or in alleys. 

    Leave the metal long and you do not need tongs.  BP001 Easy to make tongs will show you how to make tongs.  

    IForgeIron has 54,502 questions with 685,909 answers and members from over 150 countries of the world that are willing to help you get started. 

    We have had members as young as 6 years old on the site.  Your age is not a factor as long as you show respect, research your questions, and then ask us in detail what you want to know.  Take that information to the forge and try it out.  Then return, tell us how it went, and ask specific questions so we can give you specific answers.  Then take that information to the forge and try it out, etc etc.

    It is the fire in YOUR belly that makes you want to learn more.  You can take blacksmithing as far as YOU want.  First time your in town, purchase a brick of modeling clay (under $5). Anything you can make with the clay you can make with metal. 

    IForgeIron is a G rated family forum.  If you parents have any questions about you being on the site, invite them to read the site with you. 

    Welcome to the site.

  6. Build the JABOD forge.  Cheap, easy and works.  It will answer most of your questions while teaching you how to get metal hot.  Besides no one said you could have only one forge.  The next forge will usually be better anyway.

    You will need a fireball about the size of a melon, so anything to hold a 4-6 inch or so ball will work. The sweet spot of the fire is about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the fireball. This is where the metal goes to get hot.  I prefer something to lay the metal on that is at that height so there is no guessing where the sweet spot is located.  

    Fuel does not make the fire hot, air makes the fire hot.  You only need as much air as you need heat from the fuel.  Gentle air works best. 

    The forge should have an inch or more of ash under the fire ball for insulation.

     

  7. From the internet:

    You want your welding rod ovens to be between 250-350F for optimal performance. Different rods sometimes need different temperatures — for example, Lo-Hy 7018 rods should be baked at around 250 for best results.  An oven that’s too hot will remove the flux coating, and an oven that’s not hot enough won’t adequately dry the rods.

    All of the electrodes listed below should be stored dry at room temp when in unopened cartons.

    Electrode Classification
    Recommended Storage open Boxes
    Holding Oven
    Reconditioning
    E-XX10
    Dry @ room temp
    Not Recommended
    Not done
    E-XX11
    Dry @ room temp
    Not Recommended
    Not done
    E-XX12
    Dry @ room temp
    Not Recommended
    Not done
    E-XX13
    Dry @ room temp
    Not Recommended
    Not done
    E-XX14
    150 - 200 F
    150 - 200 F
    250 - 300 F 1 hr.
    E-XX20
    150 - 200 F
    150 - 200 F
    250 - 300 F 1 hr.
    E-XX24
    150 - 200 F
    150 - 200 F
    250 - 300 F 1 hr.
    E-XX27
    150 - 200 F
    150 - 200 F
    250 - 300 F 1 hr.
    E-60 or 7015
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    500 - 600 F 1 hr.
    E-60 or 7016
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    500 - 600 F 1 hr.
    E-7018
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    500 - 600 F 1 hr.
    E-7028
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    500 - 600 F 1 hr.
    E-80 or 9015
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    600 - 700 F 1 hr.
    E-80 or 9016
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    600 - 700 F 1 hr.
    E-80 or 9018
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    600 - 700 F 1 hr.
    E-90 12015
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    650 - 750 F 1 hr.
    E-90 12016
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    650 - 750 F 1 hr.
    E-90 12018
    250 - 450 F
    200 - 250 F
    650 - 750 F 1 hr.
    E -XXX-15 or 16
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    450 F 1 hr.
    Stainless
    250 - 450 F
    150 - 200 F
    450 F 1 hr.
    When being reconditioned, electrodes should not be baked for more than 4 hours and should be kept at temp for at least 30 minutes. Baking more than 3 times is not recommended.

     

  8. Before you alter that edge, try to make a cold shut with some metal so you actually KNOW what you are dealing with.

    Go slow with the angle grinder on only a short section of only ONE edge.  You want to just dull the edge a bit so you can try it out with a hammer and metal for a week (40 hours) or more.  

    For your new stump, pack a 2 wheel dolly in the car.  Locate the stump, return to the car for the dolly, and dolly in hand, to retrieve the stump.  The extra walk will do you good.  The light work of using the dolly will make the retrieval of the stump a joy with no recovery time just bending over and trying to roll the stump any distance.   Keep a cold drink in the car to celebrate the successful recovery.

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