Glenn

Welcome to the site. Look at the sections you liked again. As a member you get the full list of materials available.

Support the Blacksmith Shop Expansion Enter to win this 500-lb anvil! A 500-lb anvil will be raffled off at the Blacksmith Auction on Saturday, November 3. Proceeds will go towards the expansion of the Folk School's Raffle tickets are $5 each or $20 for 5 and can be purchased through Susi Hall susi@folkschool.org or Paul Garrett pdg86@hotmail.com. I spoke with Paul Garrett and you do not have to be present to win. Tell them you heard about the raffle on IForgeIron.

Look at the Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing. They provide a wealth of information on getting started. Find out what fuel is available to you and then build a forge to use that fuel. If you have questions, post them in the forum and we will try to get you answers.

Ed Viadock Room 301 Geisinger Wyoming Valley Medical Center 1000 E Mountain Dr Wilkes Barre, PA 18711 (570) 348-1120 Ed is being given massive antibiotics for a staff infection and is finally responding to the treatment. He says he is doing better, but would still appreciate your thoughts and prayers.

As stated on ebay The anvil features three anvils with each anvil having a unique feature. One anvil has a round horn, one a horn with square edges and the last has swages on the face. The two anvils not being used serves as the base. It appears that the anvil was made to sit on the horns and also on it's heels. The measurements are: overall length 7 1/8", face 5" X 12 1/8", horn 1 1/8", height 4 3/4", actual weight 15 pounds.

Steve the owner of the anvil has provided IForgeIron photos of the 3 horned anvil with permission to post the images on the site and for use on the site. Thank you Steve. The photos are posted in the IForgeIron.com > gallery

South Africa, Wheels on the Vaal Go to IForgeIron.com > Gallery > Blacksmithing Events > 2007 When you get to Choose a category to upload your images to. Pick a category that relates most to your image(s). Use the pull down menu and choose Blecksmithing events, then South Africa, wheels on the Vaal. You may post as many photos as you wish from the event as there is no limit on the folder.

Thanks Habu. I have email him also.

Could you use a water mist to wash the particulates from the smoke? I know the power companies here use an electrostatic participator to remove the fly ash. They have electrostatic participators small enough to use on house (home) heating system. Maybe a combination of things would work.

Blacksmithing Groups Look for your state and a group close to you.

Go to IForgeIron.com then Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing There are lessons posted there that will walk you through how to get started in blacksmithing. Use the forum, ask a bunch of questions, When you are provided an answer, go out and try it. Then come back and tell us how it went. If you ask the follow-up set of questions based on your efforts and their results, you will get much more help. Photos are great as it saves writing a 1000 words. Read everything you can get your hands on, and ask more questions. LB0008 Reference material lists a hundred free books on metalworking. Many are PDF's and can take a while with a slow modem. But that is only one source, the library is another, as is IForgeIron and the internet.

I just got an email from Ed Ash aka Hotforge101 Although he did not ask, I am sure he would appreciate prayers.

MULCH: a covering, as of straw, compost, or plastic sheeting, spread on the ground around plants

BP0485 Vise, Maintenance and Repair

It made sense to start a new thread so the 4 letter thread can continue. Let the fun begin. :)

I had a 5 foot horizontal run on two different chimneys I used, and the draft was not an issue. I am sure it would have been better with a straight up chimney but that was not available. My comment was point out that it may not be recommended to have a horizontal run in a chimney, but it can work. Your photos prove that.

There is some information of Brazing at Soldering / Brazing / Welding

kbaknife, where are you located? You have a 6 or 8 foot horizontal run of pipe at the top of your forge hood. According to some, this can not and does not work. But I guess you did not know that and used it anyway And bumble bees according to the engineers can not fly, but no one told the bumble bee. Try putting 2-3 sheets of newspaper on fire and let the heat start a draft up the chimney before you start the fire. Wait a bit for the draft to get established. Then light a couple more sheets and as they burn to about half, set the forge on fire. It should eliminate a lot of the smoke that is getting loose into your forge building. You can also put a piece of steel (sheet metal) on the away side of the forge pot and lean it up against the forge hood. This cuts off the flow of air from that direction and channels the smoke toward the chimney. It could even have a 90 degree bend * 7 * (the shape of a seven) to extend the hood a bit and capture more smoke. I like the forge set up.

Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing has material on how to start a fire. Also see the following Blueprints. Some of these duplicate what Keykeeper posted but I gathered them from a different search. BP0036 Fire and Smoke BP0037 Fire and Smoke BP0042 Fire and Smoke BP0045 Fire and Smoke BP0046 Fire and Smoke BP0048 Fire and Smoke BP0137 Fire Starter These two Blueprints may be of help BP0036 How to build a Coal Fire BP0384 Using Coal Fines First build a "good" fire then add the coal. Depending on the type of coal depends on what a "good" fire means. With soft bituminous coal you can use a couple of sheets of newspaper, but with other fuels you need a fire from wood, sticks etc, to reach the ignition point of that type fuel. Use enough air to get the fire burning but not so much as to cool the fire or blow it out. You will need to keep moving fuel into the fire to replace what is consumed. Attached photos shows an area that has burned out and left an open area or cave in the fire. (They are not all this large but you can get the idea) You want to keep the coals together. Just poke it down with a poker, then drag more fuel toward the fire to keep the volume constant. Photos are always nice as we can see what you are doing.

Do you tap your anvil? (shop forge only, not at demos) We had 111 votes for this poll. Tap the anvil while hammering 53 votes or 47.7% Rarely tap the anvil while hammering 26 votes or 23.4% Never tap the anvil. 24 votes or 21.6% Tap the anvil upon entering the shop. 8 votes or 7.2%

Referring to the time honored comment "When you ask a question, you get 12 answers from 10 blacksmiths, I will add the following: Drill a series of small holes around the circumference of the circle, then pull out the center plug. Smaller the drill bit, the smaller the holes it makes, and the smoother (a relative term) the edges of the hole. Then just use a burr, rasp, or what ever to smooth up the edges or correct any clearance problems. This method can also be used to make an angled hole through material with thickness. Just adjust adjust the angle of the drill bit to match the desired cut angle. Put a piece of masking tape around the drill bit to use as a depth gauge. _________________________ One thing I will mention is to waterproof everything. OSB (fancy particle board) is particle board using big chips instead of sawdust (my opinion). I would be afraid that the even after it acclimates to the local humidity, it will do all sorts of distortions and separations if it gets wet. You may want to build a metal circular ring to firmly attach, and caulk, to the tin roof as a channel for any water to bypass the OSB. You may want to also consider keeping any inside air from getting into the roof between the tin and OSB and condensing, therefore getting the OSB wet.

The IForgeIron Gallery can take the larger images. The Gallery then automatically reduces the size of the image for posting and created a thumbnail. That why when you click on the thumbnail you get the reduced size image, chick on that image and you get the full size version. On each size, right click, then click on properties, then copy the URL. This URL can then be put into the forum. You can send me the full size image and I can put it into the gallery for you if you wish, or walk you through the process.

Milwaukee Tools just came out with an "ICE EDGE TORCH" sawzall blade. Ice Edge Torch

You may have finally located a properly labeled "MM" piece of mystery metal. :)