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Glenn

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Posts posted by Glenn

  1. If you have a welder, add wings to adjust the depth in your tuyere.  IF no welder then bend some Z brackets to adjust the height.  Clay up any openings so all the air goes up the new tuyere.

    As to the size of the opening, insert a pipe of the right internal diameter and weld it in place or add some shims to hold it in place.

    Making things work is always faster than trying to make enough excuses to cover everything.  Not picking on you, just saying fix it.

  2. Finish the outside first, that is what everyone will look at and see.  The inside will be weather tight and then depend on your time table. 

    Add a cot and a bathroom so if you get sent to the dog house it no longer matters.  Maybe a kitchenette.

  3. Many forges (the upper limit for some) can heat 1 inch square.  If you go to 3 inch square you are talking about going from 1x1 in cross section to 3x3 in or 9 times the cross section.  This means 9 times the heat needed to approach working temperature.  It means 9 times the coal used and 9 times everything else involved.  

    2-1/2 inch diameter round is 17 pounds per foot or 51 pounds.  3x3 inch is 31 pounds per foot 3 feet long is 100 pounds.  You have a set of tongs that will grip onto that size material?  How do you plan on handling or moving that weight?  And you do realize that you need some heavy hitting BIG hammer, think industrial strength.

    Cutting off a hammer head size piece of material will still mean heating that chunk of metal, tongs, a heavy hammer and the proper size drifts for the handle hole.

    This is not to throw water on your project or idea, but to give you information for consideration.

  4. Looking at your photos, the fire pot looks to be too deep. There are not enough small holes in the bottom of the fire pot to get much air into the fire. I have a forge with 2+ and 3 inch diameter pipe for the tuyere.   The grate is 2 ea 3/8 bolts welded in place across that 3 inch opening.  Fuel does not make a fire hot, air makes a fire hot.  That allows a LOT of air to get to the fire. Control the air and you then control the heat.  If you need more fuel you can always stack it on top of the fire.

    We are running two discussions here. One on the side blast test modifications. and one on making modifications to your existing fire pot.  We much separate the two discussions and speak to only one at a time.  Cross linking them will not work. 

    Your fire pot to JABOD:  Fill your present firepot with 9 (nine) inches of dirt, so the dirt is just 3 inches below the rim.  Put a 1 inch pipe horizontally 1/3 of the way across the fire pot.  Build walls about 4 inches deep for the fire to rest between. Start a fire and add air.

    Mod your existing firepot:  Get a piece of auto exhaust pipe 8-9 inches long and put it over as many of the existing holes as you can, then pack clay, mud, or dirt to seal off the difference, and support the pipe from the walls.  Drill a couple of holes about 1 inch below the top of the exhaust pipe and insert 1/4 inch rod or nails into the holes for a grate.  Build a fire on top of the dirt and let the air come out of the pipe you inserted.

    All this is a testing platform.  Nothing mentioned is permeant and can be changes as needed.

    Where are you located?

     

     2 1/2 inch 01 round stock and 3 inch square stock will need a LOT of fire and heat to get up to forging temperature.  You current set up will not do that. 

  5. 4 inch air pipe seems overly large, The 9 inch depth would seem to be too deep, but would depend on how large a fire you need and what you were forging. You can easily reduce both as you try to get things working.

    JABOD just a box of dirt uses a 3/4 to 1 inch pipe directly into the fire from the side, and about 3 inches above the floor of the forge. 

    You can easily modify your forge as a test by filling it with 9 inches of dirt and laying a 3/4 to 1 inch pipe directly into the fire from the side.  Reduce the width of the fire pot to 6 inches with metal walls, brick or dirt.  Add fire and coal and see what happens.  This is for testing purposes and can be changed or removed later.

     

  6. I have been exposed to and used many things that would be a reason for caution.  Being a chemistry major introduced me to a bunch of stuff that you had to study about before you even considered opening a bottle.  Working with chemicals as part of the job was a new set of chemicals. 

    Photography was a whole new level of weird when mixing your own developers for color slides, b/w and color negatives and other films, and papers, etc.  Then there was the ultra fine grain developers that used ingredients that you just knew to be careful about.  Many of these things could or would go through the skin.  All of this was done indoors so ventilation was important.

    Life is dangerous so a little bit can not hurt and people tend to dismiss most of the dangers. It is common place.  Most mechanics just washed you hands in soap and water, or if they were really dirty, a solvent, and then soap and water.  Now they use gloves when working on vehicles. They used to save up and then pour used motor oil on dirt roads to keep the dust down.  If you life near a heavily traveled road, use a white cloth and wipe down the furniture on the porch.  You can get a collection of brake dust, oil and lubricants, dirt, rubber, and who knows what all else.  It coats the porch and house in a matter of hours, turning things gray.  You were also inhaling this stuff on the outside but also on the inside of the house.

    The air you breathe can be a real problem when someone burns debris creating smoke.  When volcano erupt it throws huge amounts of smoke and debris into the air which is then spread over large areas.  Large eruptions hitting the air currents can cover several states or countries.  Forest fires put huge amounts of smoke into the air.  Large highways put huge amounts of exhaust and other pollutants into the air causing haze and pollution warnings.  

    The southwestern United States is currently in a heat wave with many areas in excess of 100*F.  When it gets hot, increase hydration, but also set a temperature limit for when to slow down or quit until it cools down.  

    A sore throat, a mild headache, a LITTLE upset stomach, or an uneasy or dizzy feeling means something is going on.  Many people dismiss these events and carry on, but those that are sensitive must be aware and reminded.  

    It is not about doom and gloom.  It is about recognizing dangers and staying safe.  

     

  7. My personal experience with inhaling zinc fumes was 4 very sick days the first time.  The second time was releasing zinc fumes from brazing.  I recognized what it was, shut everything down and left the building.  That resulted in 2 days of being sick.

    Can people weld zinc coated metal?  Welders do it on a regular basis with the protection and caution, they feel is needed.  Look up the components in welding rods, and look up Monday morning flu, blue flu, and shakes, etc.

    When I worked with HVAC ductwork, the cuts took much longer to heal.  I looked into it at that time and it was attributed to the galvanized coating, zinc.  The bare metal cuts from just days before did not have that problem healing.

    All this was related to zinc as that was the subject being discussed.  

     

    What about cadmium, chrome, nickel, beryllium bronze, etc, or wood toxicity?  You need to research the dangers of what you are dealing with, and what you are doing, before you start.  

     

    IForgeIron has an entire section on safety.  It is worth reading.  Safety discussions

    By putting the cautions out there, folks can then do their own research and make their own decisions.  

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