Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.
By Irnsrgn aka Jr. Strasil
MAKING A SPOON ON THE ANVIL
Photography by Baby-Anvil
Shows my upsetting block for the anvil.
Shows another view of my upsetting block. It is just a piece of 2 in square hot rolled with oversize holes, 3/8 - 1/2 - 5/8 - 3/4 - 7/8 - 1 inch holes bored all the way thru and a hardy shank welded on the end.
Shows a 3/8 hot rolled rod 9 inches long, partially upset ready to insert in one of the holes and be upset some. Most people heat to much of the end of the rod and have a lot of trouble with the rod bending all over the place. Just stick enough in the fire to heat the part you want to upset. If you do not want it to swell on the end, dip the end in water and cool before upsetting.
Shows the rod in the 5/8 hole for upsetting. Use a hole that is a little bigger than the rod and pound away while holding the top part. It will buckle some, down in the hole, but don't worry about it, just hit it while it is hot. If it sticks in the hole, tap on the side that is closest to the outside of the hole or wait till it cools a little and it will slip out. If for some reason you really get it stuck, just pick the tool up and drive the rod on thru over a solid surface.
Take a heat on the end, cool the tip and put in a bolster or header that is countersunk to size the end and put a chamfer on it.
Shows the chamfered side of bolster made from 3/8 by 3 inch flat stock with a rod handle.
Shows a 1/2 diameter spring fuller being used to fuller the piece to 1/4 in square just behind the upset part. Do this now as it will be difficult after the spoon is drawn out.
Draw the handle down to a square taper for about 3 or 4 inches.
Not very pretty, but this is how it should look at this stage.
Spread the upset, I used a left hand quarter pein hammer, some call it a spreading hammer
Finish with a flat face hammer, drawing the metal out in the shallow places before working to a uniform thickness.
My dishing hammer. about 1-1/2 pound, ball end on the top and rounded face on the bottom.
Using the big anvil fuller and the dishing hammer, I always start dishing on the tip as it is harder to do later on. The piece must be watched closely while in the forge or the thin bowl of the spoon will disappear like a 4th of July sparkler.
Working the sides up or the center down, whichever you prefer. I normally work on the other side of the fuller, but there is not room for me, the camera, and the photographer on that side.
Working the crinkles in the edge out on the anvil at a dull red or black heat.
Fill a can to the rim and bring the bowl to a bright red heat and just barely touch the bottom of the bowl to the water to cool it off.
Quickly flip the bowl of the spoon over and place flat on the anvil top and gently tap the black cooler bottom of the bowl and this will straighten the top edge of the spoon up. remember gently.
This is how it should look, the lip of the spoon should be fairly level at this stage.
Using a finish or smooth file, remove any sharp edges and burrs from the bowl lip.
Now start working on the handle, flattening and spreading a little as you work.
Fuller the end of the handle to make a round end for a hanging hole, while the end is not to thin.
Hot punch the hole in the end of the handle.
Enlarge the holes using the bolster to prevent the metal from dishing down.
The other side of the bolster used as a backup for punching holes.
Round up the outside edges on the horn of the anvil.
Using a chamfer or counter sink tool, chamfer the inside edges lightly on both sides.
My two counter sink or chamfering tools, one is 5/8, the other is 7/8. turned to 82 degrees on a lathe.
Tilting your hammer a little, work both edges so they are thinner than the center and you have a line running down the middle of the spoon handle.
The finished spoon, this one was wire brushed lightly, use any finish you want and if you prefer grind, sand and polish. I prefer to leave the forge marks in and it is pretty smooth as is.