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BP0166 Hammer Stand


whitesmith
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IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

BP0166 Hammer Stand
by Glenn Conner and Sean Conner (Whitesmith)



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You have to start with something, and lacking a plow disk (the most popular item for a base) I grabbed a tire rim.




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Next came a piece of 5/16" plate steel and a section of 1-1/8" pipe. Yes it is bent on the end, but I plan to cut that off and use it later.




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Then I found the section of 3/4" pipe had a bend on one end also.. I put a piece of angle iron against the 1/2" pipe and the start of the bend is indicated by the gap and the soapstone mark.




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The piece of 1-1/8" pipe was used as a close line in a former life and still had nails to attach the lines.




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The center was located in the plate by drawing a line from corner to corner.




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A good support for the 1/2" center pipe was made by welding on 4 pieces of flatbar. This would also serve as a support for the shelf I wanted to put at the bottom of the hammer stand.


The welds look poor as I gathered up partially used welding rods laying about and finished them off on this project.




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The pipe and flat bar was then welded to the wheel rim from the inside.




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Looked like this when it was finished.




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Next I clamped some 1/4" round stock to a section of 1-1/2" pipe.




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A few turns later I had a coil of 2" diameter rings. All you had to do was to cut them apart.




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Using the same technique, I formed a 3" diameter circle from 1/4" x 1/2" flatbar.




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Just clamp and cold bend it around the pipe.




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The finished ring ready to be cut from the bar of stock.




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With a 2" long section of 1-1/8" pipe as the hub, and the 3" ring as the outside of the wheel, I placed the 2" diameter rings to hold the hammers on the outside. This would hold 7 handles. The outside diameter of the assembly measured 7".




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Using 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar, I cold formed a 7" circle for the second level of hammers.




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Again, with a 2" length of 1-1/8" pipe in the center as the hub, the 7" ring as the wheel, I placed the 2" rings around the outside and found that it took 12 rings. The outside diameter of the whole thing was 14". I would use 15" as the ring size for the next level of hammers ( a thrid tier if needed)


All that is needed now is to cut the 4 spokes and make the wheels.




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The 2" section of 1-1/8" pipe would just fit over the 1/2" pipe welded to the wheel rim and give room for adjustments in height as well as a pivot to turn the hammer tier a little.




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This is the finished hammer stand.




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You can see the 2" sections of 1-1/8" pipe used for height adjustment.




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If you need more room between tiers, add a 2" lenght of 1-1/8" pipe.




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The extra adjustment pieces were placed on top of the stand.




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Top row holds 7 hammers, second tier holds 12 hammers. Third tier would hold 15 to 20 more I would guess. Or 15 to 20 rings for tongs, etc.




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As this was all assembled from scrap parts. I have about 10" of the inside pipe, only the crushed end of the outside pipe, one ring, one spoke (that I cut too short), and a couple of partially used welding rods left over.


Even the 1/4" round bar was from the scrap bin. I had to sand the rust off the round bar before I formed the rings. There were only a couple of 1-1/2" sections of 1/4" round as leftover scrap.






After using the hammer stand only a couple of days, the following design changes were made.


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I located a heavy flywheel from a vehicle, that was almost 1" thick. That is a welding rod to show scale.




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It was welded it to the bottom of the tire rim. This extra weight was needed in my opinion to help balance the hammer tree.




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A ring was constructed by cold bending 1/4" x 3/4" flatbar to form a 15" diameter ring. 1/4" round stock was used to form 26 ea 2" circles and were welded to the outside of the 15" ring. 1/4" x 3/4" flatbar was used to form the 4 spokes. Another 9 ea 2" circles were welded to the inside, 3 circles between each spoke.




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This is the third tier of 26+9 or 35 rings for hammers tongs etc. I used a marker and labeled each hammer with the head weight. This is to better locate the size hammer I need, till I get to know where they live by location.




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To do this again, I would build 2 tiers of 35 rings, and a third tier of 12 rings. You most likely will fill it up at some point.



The 1-1/8" pipe was galvanized. Once the heat of the weld hit the galvanized it put off a white cloud of zinc fumes. At the first indication of zinc, I stopped and even though working on the outside table, set up a ventalation fan to blow any zinc away. Had I known this at the start, I most likely would have chosen another pipe for the project. I do NOT like working with galvanized !! That stuff is nasty - look up "fume feaver" and "heavy metal poisioning" on the internet, and then decide if YOU want to work with galvanized.


During the review process it was pointed out that the warning on working with zinc was not stated strongly enough. It was brought to my attention that the affects of zinc (and many other heavy metals) are accumulative. A little now, a little later, and you add the two together. There is no set amount as to when it affects the body as each individual is different.


Always use caution when working, as personal safety is just that - PERSONAL safety. Your responsible for keeping YOU safe.



If I were to build another stand, I would make two of he bottom larger rings for the stand. They have been used more than I would have guessed. The top ring has taken on a secondary storage function for those hammers used often but not on a daily basis. IF I did not have this tool in my shop I would build another one as it has cleared up much drawer space and keeps the hammers within easy reach.




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generally I grind off the gal at least 2" away from proposed weld then paint with gal paint when finished this gives a better weld as gal tends to cause problems.

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this is awesome - i'm just setting up shop (for the first time) and now i know what i'm making to hold my hammers... thanks!

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I realize that this is an old post, but a quick and dirty way to make the rings is to cut several  slices about 1/2" to 3/4" wide from some 2" black pipe or scrap pipe with a chop saw or band saw.  Cutting up pipe doesn't fit in with smithing, but if you need rings in a hurry, it works.

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