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  2. I purchased this forge: At the beginning of 2019, figuring I needed a hobby. Making knives and small things like that seemed like a good idea. Who doesn't love fire and hitting things with a hammer? I received the forge fairly quickly from the middle of Eastern Europe, and I went about getting it action-ready according to various posts I've seen here, and information I've sniffed out from other interweb sites. After putting a bunch of stuff inside of it to see if I could increase the efficiency, I came to the conclusion that there just wasn't enough of the right stuff in there. So I set about tearing out the old, and putting in the new. I started with ripping out the old kaowool and coatings I had on there, and putting in 2" of wool instead of the stock 1" that the forge came with. Exhibit A, post rigidizing and test burning: Next, I purchased some Kast-o-Lite 30 and lined the sides with about 1/4" on the sides and 3/8" on the floor. Enough to provide ample protection for the wool on the floor of the forge, as well as increase the efficiency of the forge. This also reduced the interior dimensions significantly. Exhibit B, forgive the perspective: The "stock" interior dimensions were, according to the original sale listing, 5.6" x 5.6" x 16". The new (approximate) dimensions after the layering of the wool and the KOL is about 4" x 4" x 16". This means the "stock" interior volume would be about 501.76 cubic inches. The new volume is approximately 256 cubic inches. So a hair over half the original space was taken up. In theory this will make the two burners (small in comparison to homemade burners) the unit came with more efficiently heat up the interior, and allow higher temperatures to be reached with less PSI resulting in greater fuel efficiency. In theory. I hope. The forge and it's new guts are now in it's bag o' humidity, where it'll remain for the next few days (until Saturday at the earliest). Exhibit C: The new dimensions will undoubtedly make it more difficult to work certain stock sizes in it, but I really don't foresee myself working with anything that's going to be wider than 4" and longer than 16". The only thing I can see happening is that trying to straighten coil springs (like the one see in exhibit c) will mean I have to cut off a length first instead of unraveling into a long piece of stock. But that's why man invented angle grinders. I will update this post again when the "cure" is done and take a picture or two of the test fire, as well as any issues I came across. I used about 5lbs of Kast-o-lite to do this. I probably could have used 6, just to make sure I wasn't spreading anything too thin. But that's why I left the roof of the cavity until last, as I had the burner holes to dance around and could spread out the product a little thinner.
  3. Thanks for all of the advice, I wish I wouldn’t have been so hasty as cutting it down to working height seems like it would have been the best. I even have some left over 1” and 1 3/4” plate laying around I could have made a round base plate, but I slapped it on the band saw before reading all of the reply’s. I now have 2 sections measuring in at 19 1/2”. Frosty and Charles I took your advice and cut some 2x4 and plywood I would say my anvil height would be about 31”. With my haste I would assume I would be now looking to build a stand of sorts. Big gun doctor the breaker bit I have is out of a old hammer that I have had to decommission years ago. The hammer and bit definitely got its money’s worth now just trying to reconstitute and figure out what I can make out of them. Thomas powers sorry I forgot to mention you earlier. I see now I should probably take my time and pay closer attention to the advice given on here as it is very wise and much appreciated.
  4. 3/4" is loosely correlated with earlier dates for some anvils. I'd "guess" antebellum too. (an exception: Vulcans used a smaller hardy hole even fairly recently to strengthen the heel)
  5. That bit has a lot of possibilities, and several ways it could be used. It looks unused, so one option would be to sell it as it is looks to be worth around $500 online. Then pick up a used one , or put the cash towards a London pattern.
  6. Might be able to do a keychain bottle opener.
  7. Thanks, Yes it does hurt. The hardy looks like it's 3/4". After swinging a hardwood flooring mallet for years my right arm has seen better days.
  8. Today
  9. The topic of shop expedient crack checking might be a good subject of it's own. Dykem layout fluid works pretty well in this capacity. In Dad's shop we'd transfer blue prints to sheet steel, aluminum, whatever, to make a permanent template or cut out precise parts. It is VERY penetrating and reveals cracks when sanded off. I don't believe that's its intended purpose but it is hard as heck to clean off mechanically, it gets in every nook and cranny. I just looked at Dykem company and they make a bunch of different kinds of makers and fluids, they may have a crack detection product but I don't want to search the site. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. It was a standard model back when; just like there were London Pattern and Birmingham Pattern and a slew of others. I've seen them in catalog reprints. What size is the hardy hole? Needs must when the Devil Drives; I once sold off a swiss army crossbow to put 5 more feet onto my shop building. Being able to turn loose of *NEAT* *STUFF* when you have to is a boon; good luck.
  11. Great advice. I will post more photo's and leave it alone. It's a lively anvil and i could only do the hammer swing test with it on it's side. Nice rebound and ring but not a long duration ring.
  12. Looks good. One of my customers made a few different items from tubing. He would take the entire bundle from the steel supplier and load it into his bandsaw still banded up, so he was making 100 cuts every time per set up.
  13. I'd have a hard time selling something that old and cool, being a blacksmith or otherwise! I'm not saying that you shouldn't, but I would recommend thinking it over for a while before you do.
  14. Dye penetrant testing is one way. Spray the dye on, let sit for a bit then wipe it off. Spray the chalky material over the part and watch for where the dye bleeds into the chalk. Magnaflux - some automotive machine shops have these to test for cracks in heads and blocks. Zyglo testing- similar to dye penetrant but an ultraviolet light is used to see the dye.
  15. Welcome aboard Bob, glad to have you. Please slow down, your last post doesn't really make a lot of sense. I'm old and don't text folk on my phone. I'm looking at my laptop and use a keyboard. Hmmmm? I have to assume you have a pretty major car repair and may have to sell the anvil. If you aren't a blacksmith or collector the money makes it tempting. Am I close? I'm no anvil guru, I don't have THE book, "Anvils n America," that is the current reference manual for identifying and dating anvils. . . In America. What I can say is that old lady looks like she was made that way and is probably DARNED old. Maybe colonial or older. Possibly a sawyer's anvil or a similar specialty anvil. I'd leave her just like she is. I'd dust it with flour and wipe the surface off to bring out surface features like stamped marks and photograph it with oblique lighting; ONE light at a shallow angle to bring out features. Id take several photos from several angles of each side. Yeah, I'd be taking probably 40-50 pics. If she's what I think she may be worth a pretty penny. So please don't try to pretty her up, no grinding, heck I wound't take a wire brush to her. Wipe her down with an oily rag maybe but that's about it. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. I don't see any edges that need to be "fixed". The only thing I would do would be to trim the heel edge square, and mount it up.
  17. I am 6’2” and typically wear riding heals (2”) at the forge (I’m a farrier) so 32” is my anvil hight. I can work up to 36” tho I would prefer a palet for that. Lower is just a mater of bending ones knees.
  18. Simplot has a silica mine down the road from me. Super white sand. Just be careful when dealing with it, as silica inhalation over time can lead to silicosis in the lungs.
  19. Didnt want to but selling it due to and expensive head gasket car repair. Thats aluminum for ya.
  20. Not a thing wrong with tinkering around no matter how well a thing is working right now. I wouldn't have lucked into a working NARB if I wasn't willing to tinker and accept the high probability my idea wasn't going to work and bull ahead anyway. It just worked with a little tweaking. It was a lucky thing and I'll take it. About that animation. It's cool but everybody needs to bear something in mind. The animator is ASSUMING particles actually behave THAT WAY. I think there's a good chance they do behave that way but that's an assumption on my part. It's an animated model and probably holds true with a physical model say, clear plastic and smoke or colored water. To A DEGREE. No matter, they're still MODELS not working devices. That's why we draw pictures, bounce ideas off each other, make models then prototype and test in the real world. It's all part of the process. Right now we're brainstorming static mixers in HOME MADE devices. AKA SkyBalling. Skyball on Brothers. This is Fun Stuff. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. It i clean enough to test, that appears to only have a patina on it, not flaky rust. Now, are you looking to keep and use it, or sell it? If you are going to sell it, just leave it as is.
  22. Gassers are effecent in only a nerrow range of work, and can be a real pain (often requiring the use of rose buds on a torch set) working with scrolls and such, many smiths have more than one gasser for difrent jobs. Wile others have one or two gassers and a solid fuel forge. As to ventilation, contrary to popular belief gassers aren’t much “cleaner” as they produce plenty of CO and CO2 and often don’t have hoods. A side blast forge is easy to build, inexpensive and will burn charcoal and coal. Construction cut offs and yard wast make exelent forge charcoal. Charcoal making can creat a lot of smoke, unless one builds a kiln type charcoal retort. But they arnt hard to cobble together. My side blast happily burns soft and hard coal along with charcoal, and will effecently heat 1” thick stock.
  23. I have to agree, trim it down to YOUR working height and mount it on end. The remainder is good stock for anvil tooling , top or bottom. Anvil face height for ME is approximately 31" but I can adjust how I address an anvil to take up for other people's anvil height. You can determine your comfortable working height with the, very general departure point meter of standing in your work shoes and measuring from the your hammer hand wrist to the ground. THAT is a good starting height for the anvil face. It is ONLY the departure point it isn't THE right height for you. A good test to determine your best within reason anvil height if you can't use it a while and adjust the anvil, would be to make a practice or test stand anvil. Cut a piece of 4" x 4" lumber wrist height and practice hammering 2" x 4" or 1" x 4" lumber and examine the hammer marks. The hammer marks made to the 2" x 4" will probably be crescent dents open away from you. This indicates the impact point is high but t hat's to be expected if you were forging on a piece of stock 2" thick. Yes? If the hammer marks on the 1" thick lumber are even all round then the hammer face is striking parallel to the (test anvil) face. Yes? Good. Yes? Now try it on a piece of 1/2" plywood and look at the dents, are they circular? Good, yes? If they're open towards you then the model face is low IF you plan on working 1/2" thick stock or less. Yes? On the other hand as a working blacksmith you need to be able to adjust your hammer strikes to account for different stock thickness. You can't be changing your anvil height every time you change stock can you? Sure 2" is pretty darned thick stock but not if you're using a top tool, say a swage or chisel. Is it? A reasonably common stock STARTING thickness is 1/2" to 1/4" and every darned time you hit it it gets thinner and wider or longer. THAT is WHAT WE DO. Yes? As a practical matter the blacksmith MUST be able to adjust his strikes to match the project while he's working. That's just a matter of practice. If you are going to be working with top tools: swages, fullers, chisels top dies, flatters, etc, or on bottom tools: swages, fullers, dies, closed or spring dies etc. frequently, then you may want the anvil face closer to the lower knuckle height, as for strikers. So, I recommend you make some cheap lumber mock ups and see where YOU strike comfortably with a moderate, 2 lb. smooth faced hammer. Take into account what you'll be using as a stand. That's a LOT of heavy steel so you WILL want a stable safe stand that won't get in your way. Were I making the stand I'd probably torch a 2" diameter circle from 1/2" or a little thicker depending on what I had at hand or could buy cheap from a steel supplier's drops, (OLD timer tip!! As the guys in the yard NOT the counter!!) The guys at the counter have a minimum and cut charge they HAVE to charge. Yes? HOWEVER the guys in the yard are allowed to charge by the LB. and can cut to transport. Steel in the drop racks are often sold by the lb. at retail or scrap without the minimums. Okay, that's the old timer's tip for finding small quantities of steel plate and shapes. It also applies when you buy a couple 20' sticks of mild steel to practice with, say 1/2" round or 3/8" square mild. do NOT ask to have it cut to transport at the counter. The counter guy MUST charge per cut, usually in the $10 per cut range. The yard dogs just tick it on the say and whack it in half gratis. It keeps you from clamping it to your tail gate and cutting it with a hack saw. a 30 - 60 second job but you're in their way. Yes? Anyway, about a stand for a PRIMO anvil like your breaker bit a 24" diameter disk of 1/2" or a LITTLE thicker, 5/8" is't excessive but don't get silly okay? Weld your now trimmed breaker bit in the center and it's not going to fall over on your toe. and the stand won't trip you. Grind the edge at an angle if you catch your toe on it. No big deal yes? As a last thing I REALLY like about round plate stands like this is moving your anvil. Just tip it up on edge and roll it where you want it, Hmmm? Frosty The Lucky.
  24. I would fallow TP’s advice. As to the chisel end, it’s a cut off as but with a bit of grinding it’s a fuller to use drawing out. it is wide enugh for two profiles. Mount it on a separate stump or fabricated armmores bench and add bicks and other tools to it. A wide blades masonry chisel makes a better hot cut anyway.
  25. Thank You. I do know about no grinding etc. Have been hesitant to clean it up but want to test for bounce and tone so after a while i'll get the wire wheel out.
  26. Nice find Bob. I'm sure an anvil guru will be along shortly with an idea. Have you read about not grinding or milling the face? Will ruin it.
  27. If you or someone you know is a competent welder you could maybe even weld the chisel end to the flat on the the side of the other end and use as a square horn.
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