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  2. One of the way animals (dogs) can be kept more comfortable is with a wind proof enclosure, with a door from strips of fabric. On the floor use a double layer of cardboard and an old piece of rug. If it gets cold enough, water will freeze. Heaters will help some. Depending on the size of the animal and its need for a volume water, fresh water is best.
  3. Let us return to the original topic about a peroxide finish.
  4. The shape and color of the flame looks excellent.
  5. On the plus side, as near as I can tell from the photo, you seem to have placed the MIG contact tip correctly. On the minus side, that looks like a regular "T" fitting, instead of a reducing "T".
  6. Today
  7. As much as I love old welders, have a 200 amp buzz box and a 3 phase rocket welder ... the new inverter welders have come a long way from the initial poor reliability. An inverter be it using stick or mig or tig, will require a lot less power than a transformer. Consult an electrician as to how much power you can draw from your circuit and if it is feasible to be upgraded. Modern inverters can do more than just one task, so you can learn to weld using inexpensive rods, then try your hand at gasless MIG and if your machine does that, even TIG. Best of both worlds. An old buzz box is attractive because they can be had for very little money, typically $50 or so, but they can be unforgiving and learning from scratch on it can be a bit of a task. An inverter with all the electronics in it, is a breeze to use.
  8. Oh Thanks Frosty! I think one of my problems is I'm trying to heat-color 14g and 16g dead soft Copper wire which I have hammered for texture. I'm a wire jewelry artist. But I see that in ALL the videos and articles that copper 'sheet' is being used, allowing much more surface area to work with. I will try again tomorrow and not have the flame SO CLOSE to the copper and will attach pictures! Aloha!
  9. Welcome aboard Mermaid, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you'll discover how many members live in the Islands. Telling us in one thread won't stick in anybody's memory longer than it takes to open a different post. Yeah, you're overheating it. For jewelry you'll want a needle torch or you'll heat the whole piece and not get the variegated colors. However experiment with the Bernzomatic anyway but on larger stock, say 6" squares of sheet. Heat SLOWLY and with a large area torch like a Bernzomatic use a soft flame and something to shield portions of the sheet. A brushing motion gives an effect, a FAST hot spot another effect. You can almost draw pictures with a needle flame Another method on small pieces is to use an electric soldering iron or gun. The tip needs to be sanded clean, any residual solder will end up on the jewelry. An iron gives more choices, you can file a sharp point and literally draw, use an edge for radiated colors from a sharp line, or a flat face for large areas. You have to play with it and there'll be plenty of EWWWW! results till you get the hang of it. And pictures, if you don't post pictures we won't believe . . . How about starting off with some pics of your work now? We LOVE pics you know. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Aloha Everyone! I just joined the group from Hawaii. I've been making jewelry forever, and have been an admirer of torch painted copper for a very long time. Last week I thought, what the heck, let me torch my copper jewelry! So I bought a butane torch, watched a couple of YouTube videos and got to work. My copper bracelet simply turned black. But I didn't give up, I tried it again and this time the bracelet turned a deep, muddy, rusty red color. Yuck. Maybe I overheated it. I am going to keep playing with it though... reading this entire thread is pointing me in the right direction. Thanks for keeping this going!
  11. Gentlemen, Firstly, Mr. Taylor, I shall not presently, diverge from said topic. The SLAG Accepts all challenges to a duel. And as the challegee, he has the right to choose the weapon and details of the "affair of honor". His stipulated request is always, fragmentation grenades at twelve paces. Seconds are permitted to take cover. Now I shall desist from further comment upon said topic. Regards, SLAG.
  12. I think that if we diverge, now, from this subject, all will be good. Whilst I would love to chime in, I will, instead, mention that I have read that General George Washington discouraged the practice of dueling. Robert Taylor
  13. Just a little bit more tweaking and you could have a hotter forge if you want it. The 45 and extra nipple will add some resistance to the flow path but it will not change performance as drastically as an out of alignment mig tip. When a mig tip is out of axial alignment with the mix tube, even a little, it can reduce the air induction dramatically. The tip looks to be fairly out of alignment in this image. If you could get a picture of the flame inside the forge when the forge is first fired up before the walls are glowing, this would give us much more information to go on. If the burner were mine and the tip is actually out of alignment, I would get a new tee and try again. If you have access to a drill press, Frosty's advice in the pdf about using a floor flange to fasten the fitting to the drill press will help with this greatly. Measure carefully and center punch. After drilling, use the drill press to tap the hole. This will keep the tap in alignment. If you do this and you want to take the 45 out, do so before you tune the burner. You would gain some performance by removing it. Either way, have it setup the way you want it before you tune it. On the forge side of things, the blanket looks uncoated. As previously stated, this blanket can create a hazard if left uncoated. If you are not ham handed, you can get away with a thinner coating. I have used plistix which I got from Wayne Coe. In the beginning, I was pretty clumsy with hot pieces so I took the others advice and armored the blanket with a 3/8" layer of kast o lite 30. I like not worrying about poking the wall into the blanket so I still armor with kast o lite and then coat that in plistix. The full size brick that is in the forge looks to be the dense variety. The light bricks are in the 8 ounce range and the heavy ones are 7 pounds IIRC. If it is a heavy one, I would look for something else. This could be another significant area of improvement in forge temperatures. I used to use 3/8" high alumina kiln shelf in mine but now I just use the kast o lite. Don't just remove it and let the flame blast the raw blanket though, it will create the hazard and destroy the blanket. If you plan on forge welding with flux, your floor has to put up with flux as well. If you remove the 45 fitting, it would put the burner more over the top of the forge. This might draw in spent gas coming out of the forge. If you were to orient the tee openings perpendicular to the forge openings, it might help. Hopefully someone else has more experience with that..
  14. Have you thought about using a removable table top that fits in the rim of the forge table so you have a solid flat surface to set the gas forge on when you want to use it and set the removable table top against the wall and put the gasser under the solid fuel forge when you're done and your coal forge is ready to go again. Pnut
  15. I think people would be much nicer to each other if the threat of a duel was a real possibility. I'm all for it. Unfortunately being considered dishonorable doesn't carry the stigma it once did so there's nothing to compel the offender to accept the challenge made by the offended. Pnut
  16. Flame shape and color look decent to me from what I could see. Assuming that's a 3/4" burner, as long as your forge chamber isn't much larger than 350 cubic inches in volume you should be in good shape. If those are heavy clay firebricks in your opening they will be a bit of a heat sink, but it shouldn't be much of an issue if that's the only place you are using them.
  17. I should have asked some questions. I had incorrectly assumed you were building a DuPont style linkage hammer like a LG. In the worst case if the stroke isn't long enough you'll only have to make one new part to change that anyway. Thanks for posting your progress. I'm looking forward to seeing it beat some hot steel.
  18. I was thinking about a heating pad, but was afraid it would start a fire. There's a TSC about ten minutes away. I think I'll see what they have first. Basil Bob sends his thanks. Pnut
  19. your railroad design looks surprisingly close to one i start a while back

  20. Here's an old photo from earlier in the thread, I've changed the position a bit since then. It's clamped, it doesn't slide. The movement in the videos is from the spring flexing. I think it needs to be stiffer.
  21. Then start another divot. They start smaller and then slowly become deeper. Simply Magic!! Neil
  22. thomas thats nice to know. any idea how that heat treated back then? i made a damn sexy hammer eye drift i mean to use soon and ill need to chench the sob sob. (hammer not drift, drift came out harder then kenshiro's finger tips) fist of the north star? eh? anyone? anyway i kinda want to go for a harden whats crucial and maybe a bit more. the steel was a bust knuckle pin sparked 1055-1016, ive heard they would hardened them near the tope where the head was for some safety reasons i forget,. i however got a beautiful 2 1/2 piece of stock, also friend gave me another one the other day still intact. different model little thinner but sparks the same
  23. How do you keep the log from burning? The divots just get larger and larger.
  24. howdy from WA, very cool to find you on here.  i watched your video titled making 100 round hamers as soon as it aired give or take,  (this was before i had discovered you channel) THAT POWERE HAMMER THO! and i loved the segment  where you gave us a little insight into your journy as a young black smith, the trip to the UK, and so on. 

    ill admit im not like a alec steel super fan, i only recently discovered who he was. i good do with 25 segment videos. BUT i like his and sam and was happy to see them expanding and laying a foundation for an actual what should be succussfull business, i think he's put the work in and id rather see people spending their money on something made from someone whos done the work. but when i saw the vid of the unboxing i was like what....domestic outsourcing? whats keeping then from maybe not spending 5 months on a fuckings sword breaker with a diomand encrusted edge and just fire up the power hammer. then i thought more about it speculated that maybe alot of him being where he is now was likely alot to do with the work he put into youtube and his fan support. so if thats true that would make each upload a valuable part of business.. but 16 parts g'dang... joking. then i watched your video and it all makes sense and now i want a hammer!   not to mentionn the hammer eye tongs! one day

  25. Thank you all for the input. I'm sure I will make many changes once the thing is up and running. I just got through building the drive linkage. I had to build a turnbuckle since none are available in fine thread. I used a couple of pieces of 5/8" square stock and a couple of nuts welded together. Works good. The turnbuckle will allow me to adjust the height of the hammer, and the clamp on top will allow for stroke length adjustment. The core of the hammer is going to be four 12" pieces of 1-1/4" square stock which weigh 20 lbs. Adding the end plate, connecting rod and other pieces should make it close to 30 lbs. I can always add weight if desired.
  26. Where you buy hickory from? Can’t find anywhere in NJ, I made a viking axe and I end up using oak for the handle
  27. Thank you for the additional information.
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