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  2. Mudman, a fiberglass sewing tape works great for measuring her wrist. Or cut a 1 inch strip from the 11 inch side of a piece of paper and wrap it around her hand, from the tucking the thumb to the heel of the hand. It should be close in size to the width of the knuckles on her hand. Add a little for getting on the hand. The strip of paper can be adjusted and then stapled together for a over the hand measurement. A piece of solder can be made into a circle and when she gets the size to her liking, twist the solder to form a circle and keep the measurement. If she already has a piece of jewelry she likes and uses, measure it.
  3. Rojo Pedro: thank you, yes it's brass. I screwed up on it, thankfully that was just the test piece. It was originally supposed to be domed, but got flattened after a little too much oompf. Steven NY: thank you, I've seen many people before me do it. But my original inspiration was from Jackob Faram. He makes awesome little keyrings using this method, except he does it 100 times better.
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  5. That has worked well on my 1/8"x122 nozzle burner. No backfire, down to 0 pressure (after over an hour of forge welding at 2400F+). 0 pressure is a flame so low it won't pull oxygen into the tube, just propane. Quench diameter is around .11" for propane, so .125 seems to work. On the other hand, a larger nozzle with restricted end may allow for less friction, more cooling, or other advantages (or disadvantages) that we don't foresee. I think it's definitely worth a try! Dan R
  6. First, that's looking great! Lots of burner for the size of forge you have, looks like you'll be able to weld easily in that puppy! Tink, answered your PM, but thought I'd put some of the same info here for others. 1) I mix the slurry by eye, using much less liquid than expected. I go for a slurry about like latex paint. I mix in a paper cup, only what I think I'll use that session. I put in several heaping tablespoons of zircopax powder, and add maybe a tablespoon at a time of colloidal silica until it is the right consistency. I definitely use more powder than liquid to get the right consistency. 2) The zircon powder will settle quickly and cake on the bottom. Even while painting it on it will start to cake. Mix often, and scrub the bottom of the cup with the brush to break up the cake. If you make more then you need, you can put it in a jar. As long as there is liquid in the jar you will be able to mix it up, but the cake will be very hard and take a lot of scrubbing to get it back into solution. Just shaking the bottle will never work. If some of the liquid has evaporated you can add a bit more colloidal silica. ***Bottom line: mix up only as much slurry as you need to use that session, mix often while painting it on by scrubbing the bottom of the container it's in with your brush. This is basically the same slurry mix that is used for shell casting. I used to have it in a 5 gallon bucket. In order to prevent the slurry from caking, a mixer on a timer is used. The mixer must run a few minutes every 10 as I recall, and run 24/7. When/If the power went out (or my mixer messed up and stopped) the slurry would solidify with a several inches of liquid (colloidal silica) on top of it. I'd have to mix it back up with a drill and mixer attachment. Took about 30 minutes of mixing to get enough of it into solution to free the propeller on my mixer. Dan R
  7. Two more bangles today, starting to understand these a little better now. This was supposed to be something for a birthday gift at the request of my sister. Unfortunately my she cant figure out how to measure her hand circumference, so I'm stuck making multiple sizes for now. Good practice for me, but troublesome when a basic task all of the sudden becomes a big ordeal.
  8. Thank y'all! Neilyeag - I have no natural skill in that direction, but I'm extremely stubborn!
  9. And here I was thinking I was cool when I had a third-hand thinkpad and Ubunt 12.something. To be fair, it did give me a great appreciation for command line and unix-like utilities.
  10. "If it's not written down it didn't happen." My ultimate goal is to save time and frustration. Hand finishing is the biggest pain I've encountered in knifemaking, and also one of the biggest indications of quality work. Whether or not I find something that works for me, I'm hoping this thread will accomplish my goal for other people-- either a method that's faster and/or easier than I know now, or by listing what doesn't work well so that someone doesn't have to waste their time experimenting with. The biggest issue I can see is that if I find something great and execute it poorly, somebody may discount it because I couldn't get it to work. I'm already wondering how diamond cards would do on a fully hardened blade, or with less pressure, etc.
  11. I was a horrible student until I graduated from college. After a few years I started taking classes just for fun...that's when I started to get good grades! Liked it so much I became a teacher in my 30's. The main thing I learned in college is that I can pick up a book and learn anything I want - it just takes the time and will to do it! Learning was no longer a mystery. I think I learned just as much at the UCLA research library finding primary sources for medieval metal technologies as I did in any class I took, probably more! Dan
  12. This is all quite interesting. Thank you for continuing to report and to find an approach that works best for you.
  13. Make the list and we will find a place for it to be posted.
  14. A gentle hint from management that is would be handy to have such a list, maybe?
  15. Another update- The diamond cards were a bust, but it looks like I wasn't completely off the mark. I was reading about die maker's stones, some of which are called EDM stones, and they seem to be a well kept secret. They supposedly cut fast, don't round over corners, and aren't prohibitively expensive. They seem to fit the use case I had for the diamond stones perfectly, so I ordered a sample set. I'm not sure how they'll do with something this wide, but I'll report back after I test them.
  16. I always dreamed to have a mailbox post made of welded ship anchor chain. I finally was able to obtain a good length (like 15ft) of real ship anchor chain with huge links (6 or 8 inches, I forgot). Bought it for scrap price. Here's a picture of the chain in a wooden box where I put it for now. There is nothing there for comparison, but this chain is huge and long, maybe 15 ft long. https://www.machinerymoverschicago.com/blog/Anchor-Chain-Mailbox/ Anyway, what I was hoping to do is, take a steel plate for foundation, weld the chain to it in some cool shape, and weld a plate to mount a mailbox. I would bury the plate to prevent theft and such. Has anyone done anything of the sort. Someone has done something like that: https://www.thespruce.com/thmb/UKbKJPl8jr2zjl00TpwOyvPmWEU=/400x500/filters:no_upscale()/ships_chain_mailbox-56a582115f9b58b7d0dd3811.jpg But I wanted some more intricate shape and also my links are somewhat smaller. Thanks.
  17. I just came across this thread. Do you notice the heat tint on the lower fracture of the hammer in pictures 4-5? It cracked almost all the way through (the non-tinted portion wasn't cracked yet) either while it was still hot and exposed to oxygen, or else it was heated after cracking. I think you may be correct about when it cracked.
  18. Good Morning Tim, 1045 is very forgiving Steel. I have made many Hammers with 1045, no cracking. Don't do any sudden quenching, until you start the Heat Treat. Hardening requires a sudden quench to lock the molecules in a Hardened state. Start your Temper as soon after as possible. I have seen Hammers crack after hardening and not Tempered (one sat in a drawer for a year. It cracked because of the internal tension from Hardening). Neil
  19. Just because that’s what I know the operation buy, dosnt men ai’m right, lol. But unlike some I am happy to be corrected buy the more knowledgeable. Thus so I learn.
  20. He just did a Q&A not long ago, I see why he doesn't talk much in his videos. He seemed a little awkward. lol But he did say how his name is pronounced. He said it translates to Thor Bear, so his name now is "Thunder Bear".
  21. Casing is also called wedging, kinda like needing bread dough to thoroughly mix it.
  22. Sorry Pnut, I just saw you request. I only have my phone as a camera, and don't know how to do it from the phone. I'll see if I can find a way to get a photo on here.
  23. He has a video about how to pronounce his name: it’s (roughly) TOR-byorn OY-man.
  24. Charles, I am sure you're right. When it comes to terms involved in ceramics I'm clueless. I was using tempering in place of casing. I thought they were interchangeable. Jargon does matter though so casing it is. Thanks Pnut (Mike)
  25. No clue as to what a bangle is, but that is cool. My dad asked if i could make him a hasp. i saw that Swedish guy on youtube that we cant pronounce his name do one a while back. So i made something like it.
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