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  2. I think there is a lot of things that get done that are not by the book. It's one of the most amazing things about working metals by hand or blacksmithing. It's a very archaic process yet the results can be quite amazing. The human factor plays in all over it and while in Industry the accountability is linked to the process, at each individual shop every smith has their own take on any facet and if the item looks decent and functions as intended the "home" smith won't ever see a real difference unless there is a failure. So, the simple answer is there is a " BEST practice" but many do whatever they want as it's what they do and have done the process a hundred times with good success.
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  4. I am not the professional on these matters, but I would assume that the butcher industry has quality new tools for purchase. Why do they want to use rusty old ones?
  5. so i had a flow ragulater laying around do i set it up. i havnt had any over heating issues and my forge is more fuel efficiant. i realize this is isnt ideal considering it had a set psi but it sure is helping. ive seen people use these with oxy/fuel cutting torches with good results.
  6. Good work BEJ431, Those are the Ken Iron Store blanks right?
  7. I have been considering offering some classes at my shop. I am concerned about the potential issues that could arise from inviting the untrained public into a place as hazardous as a blacksmith shop. So for those of you that teach, what sort of insurance do you carry to cover the unforeseen? Am I just being paranoid?
  8. Didn't have time to post on Tuesday, but here are projects from that day. 2nd pair of tongs and a hold fast.
  9. I have just hopefully posted a very short and poor vid of my first go at forging a conrod for a motor bike that I am buliding and some stills that you can see more detail, I need a new phone . The centre button of the die needs to be bigger in dia to push the metal further out but its replaceable so I will either be able to use the bigger one next time or step up through several sizes to get the result I need as my hammer is probably far to small but if I keep removing the flash so it dosent absorb any more force it may work WP 20190524 15 53 48 Pro
  10. Im a dirt floor kind of a guy.
  11. Look at the rect. holes on this block. They are arranged to minimize the effect of the forces coming from the sides. My ipad wont let me reduce the size of this image using the + button.
  12. An old friend has some very old hand made rusty knives for butchering a beef carcass. They also have a couple of cleavers, and a rusted saw. They asked me how to remove the rust so they can butcher a cow that has been cut up and has been hanging. They are concerned about contaminating the meet by using rusted knives. They thought vinegar could be used and then some steel wool. I have not been involved in knife making at all and couldn't advise them. Any suggestion would be appreciated. They told me that the knifes and cleavers and saw have not been used for at least a couple of years and that is why they are rusted. The few knives they showed me appear to be a carbon steel, a low carbon steel and very thin.
  13. Can you increase your firepot depth by using some bricks on the left and right sides. Pnut (Mike)
  14. The Kast-o-lite 30 bulk density after 1500*F (815*C) is listed as 87 to 97 pounds per cubic foot. Lets call it 90 pounds per cubic foot. A cubic foot is 12 x 12 x 12 inches. Divide 90 by 12 and you get 7.5 pounds per square foot at one inch thick, or 3.75 pounds per square foot at 1/2 inch thick. One source says that when properly mixed it will make 18 cubic inches per pound of material.
  15. Definitely make a form. It is frustrating to try and shape it by hand. It’s not easy to get it in the thin form, so think about assembling the form as you fill it. Like plaster one wall then press the form against it as you move to the next wall. If you make the form I don’t think you will need any attachment between the KOL and bricks.
  16. Any suggestions on what to correct on the swage to make it more functional will be appreciated.
  17. Some ideas: 1. Keep your holes away from the edges , or it weakens the block. The lower two corners look fine. 2. Use symmetry for the holes near the edges. To look good, and not trigger the ocds, they should probably be equally distant (equal thickness) from both edges.. 3. Square holes can hold hardies. Think about their position , with hardies in them. What if you have 3 hardies going, where do you want them situated for forging a progressive shape? Your pattern with the squares diagonal to each other is almost a german pattern. If your two smallest circle holes in the upper half of the block move down a bit, you now have the classic german "X" design. Do you have a purpose for the longest bar hole? Aesthetically it looks good, but it removes much of the support under the half round. Your outer pattern is 3-7-4-5. Some blocks are more mathematical: 3 5 7 9 or 3-4-5
  18. There's a stair manufacturer on the the way home from work who leaves a scrap bin out for the public. Mostly fir, pine, and red oak, but occasionally there's a piece of maple or walnut, and sometimes they're thick enough for a hidden tang. They haven't left it out since at least fall, but yesterday it was back. Snagged some square oak bar stock pieces for a backordered favor, and today I noticed an extra bin. I thought I saw some large walnut pieces, but they were almost as dense as I am. A few pictures and forum posts later, and I'm pretty sure I've got a few pieces of Brazilian teak on my hands. I feel like this is the wood equivalent of finding a stack of wrought bars.
  19. "Pay it forward".....................always works for me. Good for you!
  20. The MarkIII jabod is simple as it gets. Half dozen bricks some fill a box a pump a pipe a bucket to hold the fill material and a blacksmith. Some assembly required. Pnut (Mike)
  21. I like how your mailbox post is so inconspicuously balanced and does not exert a tipping moment.
  22. Very true. Plus now longer than I have been doing this I guess perfect is not to be expected. Tomorrow, if the weather allows, I will finish forming the hook ends on the others and finish prep on the steel plate these will all be riveted to. The ‘plate’ is actually a scrap piece of angle iron I flattened and drew out to the correct width. Edited to add a picture of the spring swage.
  23. Yes I know it was a bit much, but I couldn't pass up the cash and carry price. I figured extra setting around isn't a bad thing, and maybe once I get mine a going, someone else might want to build one and so I will have the ability to help them out.
  24. You must be making a pretty large forge, materman. You gonna be forging punch press flywheels?????
  25. Greetings, I made mine from a scrap casting and I added a pulley from my line shaft shop . It’s been there for years with no problem. Use your imagination and come up with something cool. I would form a large circle than tie the ends in the center in a square knot. Welding all the links of course. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  26. Yes, Glen, it would be most helpful to have an idea of coverage, i.e. "a 5# bag will cover X-number square inches to a 1/2" depth".
  27. I just bought a 50lb bag for whenever I get around to building my forge. Didn't want to do the math and it was dirt cheep, so just went that route. Should be plenty.
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