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  2. Thought I would share this build with ya all. After much research, and some great advice from some very trusted members here, I have decided to build a floor mounted ribbon burner forge. Total inside cubic in ( after wool,and refactory) will be approx 400 cubic in. The burner will have approximately 20-24 ports (crayon diam) 3" X 8". Fed by 2" pipe. Air supplied by a kiddies bounce house blower. Two layers of 1" X 8# X 2600 degree ceramic wool. 1/2" Mizzou refactory, and then plistix 900
  3. Progress update. Casting the burner this weekend!
  4. I don't think I'd worry about it, I'd avoid doing heavy work in it though. I try not to do very heavy work in a bottom (hardy) tool but I have a swage block for that. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Those jacks sell very easily, especially when you get them for free and can low-ball the price! I wish my recycling place had bins like that!
  6. Frosty

    Burners 101

    A fellow on Kodiak Island uses a blue flame oil forge but it's a furnace burner firing into a 55 gl. drum lined with fire brick forge. It takes about 45 minutes to come to temp but he can cycle a large quantity of steel through it fast. I can't say what he forges or if he's still alive, I haven't heard from him in maybe 11 years. It's the only home built oil fired forge I now of that works well. It's a pretty industrial scale though and in a wide open shop. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Today
  8. "..for rust prevention since I've been leaving it outside" I had this problem with an outdoor anvil, an antique like yours. The pitting was bothersome, and oil only seemed to slow down the pitting process. I eventually just replaced it with a large train track anvil, and now I don't worry about what happens outside. The good anvils stay inside now.
  9. Awsome. Glad to see they stepped up and took care of the issue quickly. I'm sure they will probably recheck their QC procedures from this point forward as well.
  10. Excellent, that did not take too long! And mine should be on the way either now or Monday
  11. Hello all, The attached pictures show a chip in the corner of my hardy hole. I’m wondering if the sharp corner on the chip is something to be worried about?
  12. Yeah, I didn't 220 grit, burnt it then scoffed it with a copper pad. I can feel the grain lines, it's neat that it burnt the wood but not the lines as much or something like that. I'm probably gonna do it to all my handled tools.
  13. Sir Niles, .I have done it different ways, still, I am going to build one welding the top tool steel plate technique. And yes, hardfacing is a good alternative to top tool steel plate. The first anvil I build is the one I use the most.
  14. I quite appreciate your help, thank you. I want to make sure I understand. I thought the next step was to line the inside with soft insulation, then rigidize it, then form a layer of KOL30 on the inner barrel of that. I planned for the KOL layer to wrap around the edges of the openings but maybe you meant a cylinder extending out farther than I had in mind? It would be great to use the same equipment for both forging and casting but I have essentially no space restriction so i don’t mind having separate equipment. I figure that way I can optimize the designs. Another factor I’m considering is that I am working on a ribbon-burner nozzle so ultimately I will likely want that in the forge and a different burner in the furnace. Maybe I will adapt this forge into a vertical melting furnace later but I suspect it will be easier to start fresh. I don’t want to waste time building junk, so I’ve been trying to think about my design, but I also enjoy trying a few different approaches so I am hesitant to go all out with my first one. I installed a burner port in the shell:
  15. Jhcc, hmm.the door knob is actually just screwed on to its shaft that I welded to the armature shaft. If I hate it in the morning there might be some salvaging. But honestly I'm going to sleep on it and see. And no, not literally. Pr3ssure, I've burned handles like that and they work fine after sanding. Even waxed them warm and it sinks in. Too much wax and it again polishes and is rough on the hands tho.
  16. Burning the handle to turn it black, not enough to actually burn it but it will take off any splinters. It seems to bring out the lines in the grain and makes it easier to hold. After you burn it wipe the black stuff or with a rag and you can use a steel or copper scoff pad to add to it. I did take some sand paper and sand the whole thing down first with 220 grit sand paper. I like it a lot better than a pure sanded finish. Here is what mine looked like when finished.
  17. Blue flame oil burners do exist ($1$1$1) but are expensive and high maintenance. Other oil burners are hot, but very bad for air quality in a shop. Guys have been trying to get around these limits since the nineteen forties...
  18. Yeah, those are things that i see the more I look at it. Funny I've been wanting to use a door handle for an ant abdomen for a while and it just isn't the right thing. Goingtoleave this one as is but improve on the next.
  19. The knob is a bit too short front-to-back, yes. I see where you were going with this, but it's unfortunately a bit out of proportion.
  20. Das, Check out Wikipedia, for ants. The hind end seems to be more oval,. And the head is almost as large as the hind end. The head enhancement might make it look more like what we are used to seeing. SLAG.
  21. Rushing things never works out great. Had little time and rushed out an ant. Might look at it tomorrow and rebend the legs but it's anty. I like it but don't love it. Has to be the legs. Or the door knob abdomen?
  22. I hope you will choose Kast-O-lite 30 to cast the forge's the end pieces (exhaust openings) in place before going much further. Smong other things, this method will ensure that your exhaust openings will be kept well clear of hot gases, thus allowing you to maintain whatever heat paint you choose to replace the present paint job with. BTW, I use red heat paint for all my heating equipment--safety first Because you built a very hot burner (congratulations on that), you will need to follow up with a first class forge build, if you want it to stand up to its "engine." You mentioned wanting to forge, and do casting. Do you plan to build that equipment to use for both tasks?
  23. Found exactly what I’m trying to accomplish, round hot collar. Thanks for the suggestion!
  24. I am also wondering about a crop duster as a forge blower but I have no clue the air output
  25. BP0026 Principles of Design is a good review on scrolls. Phi is 1.61803398874989484820458683436563811772030917980576286213544862270526046281890 which is close enough for blacksmiths. (grin) Phi turns up in some unexpected places. In ancient times, Leonardo of Pisa (now called Fibonacci) was working with a series of numbers. Starting with 1, 1, he added the two numbers to get the next number, so 1 + 1 = 2. the next one became 1 + 2 = 3 and then came 2 + 3 = 5 , and so on to get the series 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, etc. Obviously, the next number will be 21 + 34 = 55. The higher you go the closer it gets to 1.618033 . . . .
  26. Here's a really cool video that shows an interesting method for constructing pleasing scrolls:
  27. Take the length of 3/4 sq make 1/2 round, turn that into 3/8 sq then........ heeheewell ok you could add in a few more sizes such as 3/4 sq to 3/4 round to 1/2 sq heehee.
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