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  2. Read, " My consolidated notes for new forge builders" , posted by Lou L it has most of the info you may need. Good luck Pnut (Mike)
  3. Sycamore. Seed balls and bark are the identifying factor. The Webster Sycamore reached a tree height measurement of 112 feet (34 m), a tree crown measurement of 90 feet (27 m), and a circumference of 25.75 feet (7.85 m) at breast height. At the time of its death, the tree was estimated to be over 500 years old.
  4. Today
  5. We stopped at the mother in laws new rental place and there was an interesting tree out back. First though was osage orange with the round seed balls. But a quick google kinda says it's something else. Unfortunately no new leaves just yet. Does anyone know off hand what it might be. Sorta had my hopes up it was osage and I could steal a few pieces for bow wood
  6. Marg and I have added her name to our list of intentions. SLAG
  7. From what I can find on t'internet, 14 nanometre seems to be about the optimum particle size for getting the concentration high. I don't know what that relates to in terms of specific area. The commercial rigidizer I've used in the past had a Specific Gravity of a little over 1.1. The best I managed to get with Cab-O-Sil M5 was about 1/7th of that concentration: an SG of around 1.015. This was multiple volumes of the Cab-O-Sil in a volume of water. It was the low achievable concentration that had me researching particle sizes and concentration online. Low concentration seems to be no real problem if you have time and good drying conditions: you just make multiple applications.
  8. Materman a four and a half inch shaft will work fine. How long is it? Remember don't get bogged down trying to make everything perfect. Just get started. It doesn't take a lot of equipment to learn the basic blacksmithing operations. Time forging is far more important to building your skills than anything else. Good luck and remember this is supposed to be fun. Pnut (Mike)
  9. Soft fire brick that you can cut with a saw. 2-1/2 x 4-1/2 x 9 inches. $7.50 per brick. Mortar for the fire brick 5 pounds for $15.00
  10. materman I went through the steps you're going now, trying to do much more than necessary to start forging. I have real anvils but what I use the most is this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLsgFjkBQtg Actually, the single bit of chisel would have been enough to forge (without the horn), just a simple support or buried partially in the soil. So, to start forging I suggest you use that 4.5 inch shaft and the mild steel slabs as upset blocks and to straighten long pieces and learn what you want from an anvil (weight, length, width, horn shape, hardy tool size, london pattern, european pattern and so on and so on...). If you get to the conclusion you really want to make your own anvil, send my PM and I can help you with that.
  11. I'm not sure about particle size or anything like that, but if you look for hydrophilic fumed silica you can find it pretty cheap. I've got some cab-o-sil on the way, if not arrived already in the box I tripped over by my door. It's mentioned on the forums multiple times, and it seems to be the general consensus for a "right" ratio is 1 cup of fumed silica to 16 fl oz of water. Of course, this stuff is definitely in the WEAR YOUR PPE category. So a respirator is definitely high on the list.
  12. Same here. I got the mail address from Ron a half a year ago but for whatever reason have not been able to get the plans for the new style hammer. I also searched the net and behold,,,,, articles back to 2010 etc. I am wondering if someone is still selling the parts for the valuing etc as a kit. I will build one as I saw Jose Gomez’s and it is what I need. Help please. So many old links. I am in Arizona , Sierra vista,,,
  13. Just for Mikey, the quarter inch. Here it is in my dirty fingers: The nozzle isn't right yet, we were excited to see it run. This nozzle is a piece of fire brick which was drilled/filed to get a crude shape. We will cast a better nozzle soon. This guy had a 1 inch length of 0.015 EDM tube for a jet. It was very lean so an 1/8 inch was removed and the jet drilled to 0.018. It runs 3 to 20 psi without problems. More experiments with jet length/size are planned after the nozzle is cast. Here is the flame with a house key for size: The flame is smaller then my propane torch flame. Now we want to make an impractically small forge to put it in.
  14. Guess I'm the stem of the problem. My puns are all in vein. Perhaps there's stipuleations.
  15. Awesome work David. Can't wait to see them installed. I have some faux shutters to artistically design and make. Any advise on free design? None Have to match but I plan on each set having a theme and I'd like them all to tie into eachother since they are all on the same side of the house.
  16. Built 2 matching balcony railings that will got on a building in Downtown Kellogg, Id. Hand drawn design, which i then text a pic to the customer for approval...... i do this because that is as advanced as I get. I don't do CAD..... I do hot steel. My apprentice and I then hand forged all the scrollwork and organic elements and laid them out. Once we got the 2 matching main panels done then we started on the 4 matching side panels. I am really happy about this project and how it turned out. It took about 90 hours to produce. I will post pictures of it installed. I have an instagram account that I post 90% of my work on if you want to keep up with what is going on in my forge.
  17. A quick Google search yielded this http://www.feblacksmith.com/org.htm if you scroll down a bit you'll get to France, I didnt check if any of the links were still active but it might get you going in the right direction
  18. off the ground. the broad grass is the last thing I weld in and i hate welding on my knees so the gate is on my saw horses but added another tree so that is why I was up high.
  19. I do mine pretty much the same. However, I do them hot, and over the edge of the anvil as well. Lol, I do all my finials hot. After i get rolling I move to my post vice, bending forks and scrolling wrench. Much of my scrolling with my forks is done cold. Lol, unlike arftist, ive never found free hand wrestling 10 or 15 feet of iron into matching scrolls boring. If you have tapered ends, always use the same amount of material for all your tapers. Then, always draw them out to the same length. IE: mark all say 2" with a light center punch mark and then draw all out to 3". If you do this, then all your tapers will have the same cross section along the length. Next, on each section, always hang the same length over the edge, do the same on all. Then hang a longer length for the next go around. So,, first go, hang say an inch over and scroll all pieces. Then hang 2" of non scrolled stock over the edge, and add to your first scroll,, match all others to your first one. Basically the reasoning is if the cross sections match, and you use the same amount of material (length) for each phase, you almost cant go wrong. If these arent the same, you cant hardly be right. And like was said above, always match to your first one. This prevents accumulative error. This is not different than arftist and Frosty, just an added detail.
  20. Buzzkill I appreciate your input referring to my original question. Not dead set on using then, been hard pressed finding anything better. Maybe I will go a different route until I find something more suitable. Wish I still worked at a junkyard. Maybe I will just use the 4.5 inch shafting I have, on end for one for the time being. Thomas, I know it probably sounds like I have bit off more then I can chew, but I love a good challenge. Was only going to go with a press for I do press bearings and bushings on for a mechanic shop and figured iwould design it so I could take the dye off and use it as duel purpose. But then I thought about it and thought why not just make both hammer and press all in one machine (my own design). Plan on driving the hammer with hydraulics as well for I am familiar with it and think I can get better control with it. As well want to incorporate a better clutch and brake system then a tire, but this is all for another thread. As for the 20x20 shed, it is actually a carport with the ends put in it. All my life all my sheds have had dirt floors. I fought groundhogs for years in this one, and finally last month was able for the first time to pour a concrete floor. Many would be appalled to use it, but yes others on here would consider it their dream shop, which it represents to me. Nothing I would want to brag about and indeed lots of room for improvements, but a whole lot better then anything I've ever had. Forgive me if I have come off errant, bostfull, of full of myself, for that is never my intentions. Just came looking for answers and appreciate the answers I got.
  21. Haha Glen, I can imagine. Thanks Olfart. My ideas deffinately outweigh my available time, scrap and money to bring them to life. Mainly time. Ugh...
  22. Nice books. Im unpacking mine and having a ball. It takes a long time to unpack a boxfull when you go thru each book! Life is what life is.
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