All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Thomas: Your comment about getting an anvil hot enough to boil tea water reminds me of an old saw that if your anvil is cool enough for you to sit on/lean against when you eat lunch you haven't been working hard enough through the morning. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  3. An old acquaintance of mine started out painting his hand tools Pepto Bismal pink to keep them from growing legs. When I met him everything: dump truck, loader, dozer, road grader, shovel, rake, even his house was Pepto Bismal pink. What started out as a way to keep his tools turned into a good way to track employees and keep track of the jobs. The story behind the pink house is another story and a great example of one of the things that made Mike Mike. Oh okay a hint, something Mike was known for saying was, "I have plenty of nose." Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Das, that spider is altogether too cool! I really enjoy your creative efforts.
  5. My pleasure, I read yours a couple times before I started. For you beginners out there, it only sounds like Arftist and I turn scrolls differently, the differences are really minor and I'm sure we could interchange techniques seamlessly. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. I make my hammer handles from 5/4" straight grain clear hickory from a hardwood supply. They're slab handles that widen slightly from head to end. The knob is an artifact of the first couple I made. I thought I'd need something to keep the hammer from slipping out of my grasp but it turned out to be completely unnecessary. If the hammer begins to slip you reflexively tighten your grip faster than you realize it. However the knob is part of the pattern and it's sort of a trademark on my hammer handles. My handles are finished by warming in the toaster oven on lowest setting and waxing with Trewax the carnuba paste wax, famous for armoring bowling alleys. This hammer started live as a ball pein, I rescued it from a table of old hammer heads at yard, garage, etc. sale and forged it int a straight pein. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Today
  8. Yeah, I wanted something bright. Something not many would do, also if it ever gets stolen if there's any of the paint left it will be easy to identify, I painted the bottom and made sure to get some inside the holes it was held to forge with. If anyone laughs I'll just hand 'em the hammer and ask them to make me something instead of the other way around. lol
  9. Ted the shape has a lot to do with how you hold it.. Or grip it.. Oval can be tough as its rounded corners.. It took me about 8 years to find the hammer handle shape I like... I then put this on all the hammers I own and used.. Last few years I have been experimenting with a full taper Octagon handle and the handle on the steeled wrought iron hammer was a combination of my original oval design and the octagon shape.. A proper shaped handle will eliminate most of the fatigue and will make the hammer feel lighter or more controllable in the hand.. I dislike any sticky substance on the handle as it will tear at the skin and create blisters..
  10. Welcome aboard Stuart, glad to have you. There are a number of blacksmiths on Iforge living in France but that's about as close as we can say. If you'll put your general location in the header it will speed things up. A dinner bell / triangle, is very basic if you have access to a torch just a matter of minutes. The trick to make them sound well is to make the 3 sides slightly different lengths. When you hang it it has to be from a leather thong or a cord, metal like a nail will turn the sound into an unpleasant buzz. It doesn't need to be special steel, 10mm. square or 12mm. round. makes about the same tone and is easy to work with. Heck you can use a cooking fire and metal stake in the ground to make one. Anyway, if you'd prefer to have one made professionally I'd ask provincial building or livestock supply stores. If you ask home designers or architects you'll get much higher prices than necessary. If there are horse ranches you could ask the owner. These people may not be able to make what you want but they'll probably know who can. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Picked up this nice little volume for $3.50 at a used bookstore in the middle of nowhere.
  12. Daswulf, good idea. I'll try sanding off the polished surface. I have read all several threads on here about hammer technique, which is where I got the suspicion that I shouldn't be having to grip the handle as hard as I was. Ted Ewert, the handle is already pretty thin, I think if I made it much smaller it would be too thin to hold properly. I was actually thinking that maybe it was too thin, but after seeing your post, I think the problem was just the wax that I put on it. Thanks for the responses!
  13. If you think I'll Fall for that one your barking up the wrong tree. Usually its Frosty raking it up.
  14. Get a piece of 3/4 inch round stock 60 inches long. Bend it at 20 inches and 40 inches. Clapper is 1/2 inch round stock with a loop on the end to hand it with.
  15. Stay off the horn and Youtube! I turn small scrolls on the face. I start them as Arftist does but once the bend is started I turn it over and work on the face. The stock is pinched between the face and hammer giving precise control of where it bends. Striking into the arc, say the cut end when you first start turning it will result in a sharp or tight scroll, the center. When you strike parallel with the anvil face on the radius of the scroll it lifts straight steel off the face into the scroll. You alternate between lifting blows and tightening blows to make the desired scroll. When scrolling large stock I lay it flat on the face and lift the close side and depending on where I strike the stock determines the radius and size of the scroll. For example if you have 12" between your hand and the end and strike it 1" from the end the scroll will be small or tight. However if you strike 6" back the curve will be more gradual for an open or large scroll. This takes practice but once you have a handle on it it's pretty quick. Scroll tongs are THE thing t fine tune scrolls. If you wish to do 4 matching scrolls, do them all at the same time. Snub end x 4, then initial turn x 4, next section x4, and so on. It's much easier to make corrections if you catch them immediately and you get to use the previous scroll as a "semi" jig to match to. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky.
  16. Welcome to IFI, We won't remember this after leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location. If you haven't read this yet, it will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  17. Very nice design features on that first leaf. I like the way the scroll sits against the shoulder of the leaf. It leaves my first one looking a bit ordinary!
  18. Not bad, at least you didn't pick industrial gray or that pale blue color carefully formulated to drive normal folks psychotic. If anybody gives you crap, let me know so you and I can have a good laugh. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. I grew up in the San Fernando Valley and nobody had a Valley girl accent, Mexican would be the choice if there were A Valley Accent back then. I've only ever visited Colorado and would've spent all my there in rock shops and walking the fossil beds. Did you know some of the rail road cuts were in fossilized sand dunes? They're actually quite pretty though the Sundance formations are far more vibrant. I discovered the old boys at the local cafe's coffee club were pretty "regular" guys unlike . . . some of my Sister's friends and acquaintances. Still not really strange, you can find as or more weird here. . . Say, Homer Ak. Richard: Did you say you had to QUIT smoking!? YOU!? Remember giving me crap when I lit up? Thank you, wish I could've returned the favor. It's too easy to get hooked and WAY too hard to kick. Good for you. Don't give it ONE ore chance, it'll be a do over. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. I have aligned the pieces vertically and it will be roughly 3 x 40mm wide pieces 6" long and 6" tall. with a 6"x12" face cut from the same material but with a pritchel and hardy hole over hanging the body and with a 16mm base plate for mounting. If i can, I'll simply make a bullhorn out of the leftovers. In total i have 3 plates 490mm by 350mm so I have a lot of leftovers and an oxy-ace tip and can cut up to 75mm thick so shaping the bull horn wont be an issue. total weight should be roughly 100lbs without the bull horn. I guess I should have specified, I'm primarily looking to make knives and swords and then getting into hammers and stuff. My forge is pretty good but large, almost 4' long with 6 burners so i can anneal and quench something the length of a sword easily. Still sorting out some issues with the burners but using one for working the steel perfectly fine. Do I need a hard face if I'm not doing and heavy hammering? I'm really just drawing out blades and maybe some tongs. Would mild steel be fine for that or does it need to be hardend? The face is ground down because there was a 1/4" of fire resistant paint on the plates and it stinks something fierce when you get any heat in it. That is the first leafspring I've started to draw out and shape but the plate on its own was so noisy that I needed earmuffs and ear plugs just to hammer away.
  21. Welcome to IFI Hector. I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Like Thomas said, we love pictures.
  22. I found that I had to sand down the diameter of a couple of my hammer handles after suffering hand fatigue. That seemed to help a lot, even though I don't have small hands.
  23. Yeah my employer has an oval shell, he rolled sheet metal to make his but it’s about twice the size of the one I’m making, just put the matrikote on today should be firing it up the finish curing tomorrow
  24. I ran into something like that a bit. The wax will pollish with use making the handle too smooth. Try taking 320 or close sandpaper to it. Other than that there may be other issues with how you are holding the hammer. Try researching a bit here, there is atleast a thread or two on it.
  1. Load more activity