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  2. Just received my order. Planning on mixing up some and lining the wool. Planning on going about 3/8" though over 2" of wool, as per S.O.P. outlined many times in many threads. I have two questions to get the best results: 1) Should I use just plain water to spray on the wool before applying the refractory, or should I use a very loose slip of the KOL before the thicker layers? 2) Should I attempt to sift the KOL and just use the finer particulate or just use as-is and not worry about whether the aggregate is uniform?
  3. Well, I whipped up something quick out of thin-gauge sheet steel. It was not a success: the burner kept huffing, and I could smell unburnt propane. Pulled it back out again, and everything was fine. This is not to say that this is a bad idea. My try was very much a quick-and-dirty experiment, and your mileage may vary considerably. (N.B.: In the interests of “only change one variable at a time”, I had not yet plugged up that additional hole in the ribbon burner, so that is not a factor in the burner’s performance.)
  4. Today
  5. Glad to hear Mike and others think that the twisted strip will work in the NARB, I had been thinking it would create too much turbulence/air resistance for the air to be drawn in fast enough.
  6. Refrigeration tube is annealed; any other kind of copper tubing does a lousy job of bending. Refrigeration tube is sold by the foot in most hardware stores. Maby what you need is a different store; not a different tube. Maybe I need better spelling too.
  7. Good; it may not make a lot of difference, but I suspect it will make an important difference
  8. Okay I'm out and about right now picking up the parts I need. I'm upgrading my jets to "Frosty T's" as well. I'm getting contradicting info on the for tubing at the stores. Is regular utility grade safe to use or do I need refrigerant grade? The only reason I ask is because the refrigerant grade is only available in 50' lengths.
  9. When I started out there was a controversy about whether fan-blown or naturally aspirated burners were better; than as now the real answer turned out to be that well built burners were best--of whichever kind. It would be easy to lean into our preferences for solid or gas fuels. After all, this is the gas forge forum. But preference is the answer here. What serves a person best, shouldn't be pressed on others.
  10. Timothy ??? Come to think of it, I have never met Mr. Dumbo. Thank you for all your assistance, though. SLAG.
  11. Mr. Powers, Thank you for the rapid response. Said response, though, is a tad cryptic. I am not familiar with a Timothy. Could you please supply me with some more particulars re said Timothy? Truly yours, SLAG.
  12. It isn't that it can't be done; it just ain't worth the doing
  13. "Where do I get some?"---------Check with Timothy
  14. Mr. Thomas Powers, Has mentioned, Dumbo's Magic Feather as a particularly good welding flux. Sounds interesting and powerful. Where do I get some? The SLAG. is willing to give it a try. Thanks in advance. SLAG.
  15. Or every 5 years mill a quarter of an inch off. (Boy suggesting milling an anvil's face seems WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!)
  16. Did he know what the alloy was? If it is a hardenable alloy you can heat the edges with a torch and quench to toughen them up to reduce mushrooming.
  17. Used to be Meehanite; I don't know what changes may have been done lately.
  18. I have welded without flux so I know it can be done with a reducing atmosphere but some welding operations need a little flux so I wanted to make something that can advantageous to my welding. Brake drums are a ductile iron aren't they?
  19. Or just mount your burner so that your connections are below the forge!
  20. Note to those that asked me about the book, but have not paid yet, this is the last week to order at the discount price
  21. The extra carbon is also an oxygen scavenger. However I think that sounds like way too much for most alloys. I recall folks using brake lathe turnings *shoveled* onto a particularly weird billet to help to get it to weld in a very very messy trial. I have come to the opinion that a lot of the functions of flux can be replaced by using Dumbo's Magic Feather and excellent process control.
  22. Jennifer just keeps the ground-up anhydrous in a cookie tin, and it does fine. I've done the same, and can report similar results. The BIG difference is that the anhydrous does NOT foam up when you put it on the hot steel the way regular borax does straight from the box. Another thing to think about (if you're interested in adding carbon to the mix) is the "Alaska flux" recipe from IFI member teenylittlemetalguy, announced in this comment and discussed in the subsequent comments:
  23. Nice. Thank you. That makes perfect sense. It wouldn't rehydrate that way correct?
  24. A much better way to make anhydrous borax is to melt it and grind up the resulting glass. IFI member (and general magician) jlpservicesinc has a useful video about what this looks like:
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