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  2. I had trouble getting the refractory between the rods due to the large grit in it. I used mizzou. Had to push little bits between the rods with a thin knife blade. PLA is brittle, so be careful. You may want to try to sift the dry refractory through a screen to remove larger particles. Vibrating didn’t work for me..,the grit was too big/space between rods too small and by the time I got enough refractory between the rods it was starting to set up. It was worth it though, my burner is great! I don’t think you want the rods to flair for a ribbon burner. I was thinking of doing the opposite to push the flame away from the block and keep it cooler, but it doesn’t ever backburn, so not necessary. Great use of 3D printing! Dan R
  3. Today
  4. Hi Bart, I did a file test and the face is hard, but i can't indetify the face plate. Thanks for your info.
  5. Well, Jen is correct. Once you develop the skill to turn scrolls by eye, the time difference between using a jig, or the mark one eyeball becomes moot. Thus, in the long run, using the mark one eyeball means more variation and freedom of expression and along with this the ability to charge more per lineal foot due to it being unique. I say this strictly because the best way to max economics using jigs is to have one jig fits all, and it is used all the time. Thus in that space defined by code 4"×32", a production shop needs only one jig and one setup. The benefit is it takes very little time to train a helper to use that jig. However what you lose is one off creativity by the job. So the choice becomes production vs comission. This is the difference, and the choice made is always the correct choice. Thus there should never be any conflict between the two pathways. Obviously this is a great simplification. The question should be just how do you bridge the learning curve and get to the place where the time difference between jigs and the mark one eyeball isnt an issue? And how much learning time does it actually take to get to that point? Well, who in the blacksmithing world bends iron without a jig on a daily basis? A Farrier. Every shoe is shaped to fit a specific hoof without a jig and absolutely must be done in a timely manner. By the end of the first summer you are either fairly competant, or there will be no next summer. The next question is how long does it take a farrier who decides to become a " blacksmith" to grasp the idea that an "s" scroll is just a weird hoof and apply his/her experience and confidence to freehand matched scrolls in railings or whatever. Lol, sometimes without a hint from some blacksmith, never! Thinking out of the box isnt easy. And Frosty, when I read the origional post, he was asking advice on how to match scrolls. I figgured if he was using a jig, he would have asked how to use a jig. Since he didnt, i guessed he was doing them freehand. Thus so many posts and tips on freehand. And nowhere did i see any comments on freehand good, jigs bad.
  6. That is a lot of work for sure! But it looks excellent and matches the aesthetic of the wall.
  7. Those are some gorgeous cutting boards, and the knives compliment them well!
  8. Rebar is for suckers. Voila. The hammer head still needs some more forging and grinding, but a major flaw has been largely eliminated.
  9. Finished the octopus. It's an octopus. If you decide to forge octopus tentacles out of rebar, you better have a good reason lol. Thought I'd utilize some of the texture but didn't. So it was way harder forging and bending the tentacles than it should have been.
  10. Welcome to IFI! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!
  11. Wow is that nice. Super cool. Better get started on mine since ya never know when you go.
  12. So as to heavily reenforcing the burner mount (it is cast aluminum, aluminum tube and a couple pieces of 3/4” schedual 40 pipe). I think the only thing I will do is drill threw the body and replace the 5/16 weld studs with 3/8 garage bolts. I will be retiring her to a shop forge instead of a truck forge. As to the shock mounted/vibration mounted forge mount. Again I plane to retire her to a shop forge, so that should no longer be an issue. Know as to the reline options. How the heck do you cast a 1/4” liner of castolite? I mean if it was a moldable, I would roll it out like a pie crust and form it around a cardboard tube and be off to the races, but not being familiar with the stuff I hesitate. Casting a 2” tube with cut outs certainly is durable. 2” is a space I can see ramming or poring refractory in. How are the insulating qualities of cast-o-lite 30 compare to k wool or soft brick? As to the door, I would imagine simple casting the door liner and using release (two sheets of plastic or wax paper) would give me plenty of seal for this. I relies that refractory liners are a consumable, but if I can reline or overhaul the forge for the same money or less and have it have a longer service life I will be a happy camper. So Mike and Jerry, is soft brick and castolite your final answer?
  13. Hello everyone, new guy from just outside Las Vegas. Got my smithy up and running the other day and must say I’m hooked. Looking forward to this new hobby.
  14. Charles, if you've got a boneyard nearby, you could possibly salvage some muffler hangers from some vehicles. These placed under the feet of the forge stand could give you a nice amount of shock resistance. And with the variation in sizes/shapes of them, you could easily find something that works well. They can be a beast to get off the car though, so it might be better to cut the bracket and try to remove at the shop with some spray lube and a punch. How about fabricating a little platform for it to sit on. Some anti-fatigue mat stuff from Grainger/HF/<insert store here> adhered to the bottom of a piece of plywood, and the muffler hangers as feet/bracers for the forge platform could do wonders to be a shock absorber. Might be enough to take a lot of the impact damage out of the equation. Just a thought.
  15. Well for around 1000 years the weight of a typical battle sword was around 2.5 pounds. I've had folks tell me they were up to 40 pounds; I guess they have never tried to swing one at that weight! A lot of replicas are way too heavy because people "thought" rather than researched. Alec Steele has a youtube video where he is examining museum pieces and gushing about how LIGHT they were---what I've been saying for decades... Pretty much the same thing with medieval/renaissance armour; people tell me that it was so heavy they had to use cranes to get on a horse; funny it was about 40+ pounds lighter than a friend of mine in Special Forces, Nam, was expected to carry on foot and fight with...
  16. I will do that. Would a K26 forge be comparable to a blanket, refractory, wash forge of similar volume, in terms of burner capacity?
  17. First buy a box of K 26 IFB so you can change chamber volume and shape precisely without a lot of hassle. Why K 26? So they don't crumble every second test. Yes? Document everything of course. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Greetings Backwiods, They make great Hardy dishing tools . Lots of different functions. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  19. A few years ago I was in Metairie Cemetery in New Orleans, LA and came across this monument. An interesting an sculptural use of an anvil shaped object. My hat is for scale on the 4th photo. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  20. Charles, you can get the 26 firebrick, Kast-O-lite 30, kiln wash, and other refractories through the IForgeIron Store. Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
  21. Frosty

    Barn Find

    I resize pictures by doing a "Save As" and selecting a smaller file size in my pictures file on my computer. I rename the resized pic by adding 01 to the existing file name. The handles on blowers were designed to be easy to replace and I think often got tossed to save space in a move. Just cut a length of bar stock that slips easily through the connector on the shaft then drill a hole for a bolt and make a wooden handle. Old shovel handle ends work a treat. If you want a counter weight, mine doesn't have one, be creative. A cool forged fist maybe? If you're missing the shaft connector the hunt is ON. can often find a broken "parts" blowers for cheap almost anywhere. I'm having to keep my eyes open, my old trusty blower seems to have developed a broken worm gear though until recently it's been too cold in the shop to break it down that far. Good thing I rarely burn coal eh? Frosty The Lucky.
  22. I built both of my first two propane forges at forge building workshops put on by my local ABANA Affiliate; I don't know how long they will last though it's only been around 20 years so far! So my suggestion is to check to see if your local Affiliate offers a forge building workshop anytime soon.
  23. I'm amazed at how fancy such cooking could be---I guess I shouldn't be as I've had peacock cooked over an open fire on a campout twice now---once was Peaduckhen! The put the fire crafts---cooking and blacksmithing side by side and we used to share hot coals---when they raked out the oven the leftover coals went into the Y1K forge. When they needed to fire up the oven a shovel full of coals from the forge acted as the starter.
  24. What is your procedure for testing the limits? Are you meaning the pressure range or are you putting them into multiple forges to test their forge volume capabilities?
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